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MFWD Hydro 84


Zackridesred
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I just bought MFWD Hydro 84 with a 2250 loader. I intend to use for property maintenance (loader and PTO work), I used to use a green and yellow 5400 but that tractor now lives on a farm that is too far away to use regularly. I think this Hydro 84 is going to be a much better tractor for my needs.

I spent a lot of time researching this tractor online before buying it and i found myself reading on this forum a lot, figured you folks would enjoy reading/seeing the story of this tractor. 

I had high hopes for it when I first found the sale listing, looked pretty good in the pictures, just dirty from barn clean out duties. When I called the owner he sounded honest and described the tractor as best he could, said that the week after he listed it for sale the hydraulics stopped working. He ordered a new pump for it but that he would most likely not have time to install it. He believed that the power divider valve was stuck as the steering still worked fine, but if he was going in there he would replace the pump for good measure. He also said he had replaced the transmission/hydraulic oil and filter earlier this year. I asked him what he used and he said regular old AW32. I thought that's not great but it's probably better than what came out and I would change it anyway. 

The owner explained on the phone that he got the tractor from the original owner who owned a cattle farm he bought 10 years ago and he also got the equipment in the deal. Since then it was only used by his brother in-law when he helped out at the farm, his brother in-law was no longer able to work so rather than let the tractor sit he wants to sell it. He was open to offers considering it needed work.

Well this tractor is sounding like it's not as nice as I had hoped, but I was still really interested so I set up a time to take a look at it. When I saw the tractor my heart sank a little, it sure has seen some better days, been used hard on a cattle/hog farm and not exactly well maintained. Everything seems to be there, it just all needs work. Lots of zip tie and duct tape repairs, zerks are dry, loader pins have 1/8" of slop. . . I was thinking it was almost too far gone to save, almost. I ran it at high idle for about 30 minutes while I looked everything over, once it got up to temp I ran it around accelerating and decelerating, for about 15min, then testing the hydro against the brakes. Transmission seemed to be tight, at least with my meager test

I talked with the owner, who was understanding. I explained that his price was more than far if the tractor was solid, I apologized for picking his tractor apart and told him what I would be comfortable price wise, he said he would have to clear it with his wife and he'd get back to me. I thanked him for his time and headed down the road.

Before I got home he called, I stopped by my house to pick up my trailer and headed back. This is what I got.

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Some pictures of the clean up process, pay close attention to the intake boot. The pictures with the seat removed was after an hour of pressure washing, I just couldn't get the crud out of there so the seat and floor plate came off.

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One shot after washing, before I pull it into the machine shed.

This is a very ambitious project, but my heart bleeds for old iron. If I can get it back to like new condition for less than the original sticker price all said and done I'll be happy.

Projects will be minimal this season but come winter time I will start seriously tearing into it

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Looks like it will be a nice tractor. Fenders aren't bent to pieces so it's not all bad.

Dual remotes are nice too.

Be easier to work on the engine with the 2250 off the tractor, should only take a couple minutes to take it off. 

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Handy little tractors Mine isn't 4x4 and doesn't have a loader on it either but I use it for mowing , raking hay, post hole digger, grain augers,so many more things easy tractor to run hope you's will turn out great also good luck

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495man, I intend on taking the loader and brackets off once I get hydraulic pressure to the loader, it looks like it will definitely make working on the engine a whole lot easier. Plus the loader itself needs work that I'll do when it's off, there are some botched weld repairs and the bushings need to be cut out/replaced as well as the cylinders needing to be resealed.

Ksfarmdude, that's a nice, clean looking Hydro

 

A question, the previous owner ordered a new MCV pump. Well it showed up and I don't have the heart to tell him he bought a paper weight. Does anyone have a line on a quality domestic made pump? Preferably a 17gpm pump. I have been looking and they all seem to be made overseas.

 

This is what came out of the pressure side of the pump after taking it out of the box, there where a lot of bigger shavings that I quickly wiped onto a paper towel in disgust. This picture is the second time I wiped the shavings out

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Some more pictures. 

I have a pretty good hydraulic leak on top of the transmission, I'll be tearing into that this weekend as well as pulling of the MCV and pump. Once I'm in there I'll make a parts list and replace anything questionable.

I'm a welder/fabricator by trade but I'm going to retire this bucket, there would be more work repairing this one than building a new bucket. I'm contemplating converting it over to a skid steer quick attach but we will see what I end up doing.

The loader arms have has some pretty extensive repair work, at some point it looks like the arms broke just above the cross tube. The cross tube was removed and a 1/2" steel plate was welded in on the inside of the arms from the upper cylinder mount down to the bucket pivot pin, then the cross tube put back in. Looks like that particular repair was professionally done

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I have not seen a 2250 loader that hasn't been welded and reinforced at the cross tube area. Looks like that should be a good tractor after you give it some love. I noticed it has the zf front axle. The farm had a 884 mfwd with a zf. The only issues I remember having with it was the tie rod end pulling out of the steering cylinder if someone hooked something with one of the front tires while backing up.

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8 minutes ago, TractormanMike.mb said:

I have not seen a 2250 loader that hasn't been welded and reinforced at the cross tube area. Looks like that should be a good tractor after you give it some love. I noticed it has the zf front axle. The farm had a 884 mfwd with a zf. The only issues I remember having with it was the tie rod end pulling out of the steering cylinder if someone hooked something with one of the front tires while backing up.

Thanks for the input on the loader, it's not surprising it's a common failure point. I think the arms are a bit light in this area, I could see catching the odd concrete seem, rock or root unexpectedly while moving would make short work of this little loader with 6,000lbs+ of momentum behind it. I may cut off the plates and reweld them when I rebush the loader but I would put the plates back on, I think it was a good solution.

I am pretty happy with the tractor, I would have loved for it to be a cream puff but like you said with a bit of work it will be good tractor.

The ZF axle looks pretty stout, especially being a planetary reduction axle. It's good to hear you have had good experience with them. I'm hoping that with hydrostatic drive it proves to be indestructible (pending any human error that is)

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10 minutes ago, jimb2 said:

Does the parking brake work? Those metal flakes could come from chewed up parking brake drum.

I'm not certain on if the parking brake works, if they put metal flakes in the oil that could be the cause of the hydraulics not working.

The shavings in the picture are from the discharge of a brand new, never installed pump. Fresh out of the box and into my hands, a very good example of buying from the lowest bidder.

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8 hours ago, Zackridesred said:

 

I'm a welder/fabricator by trade but I'm going to retire this bucket, there would be more work repairing this one than building a new bucket. I'm contemplating converting it over to a skid steer quick attach but we will see what I end up doing.

 

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If it were me I'd put a Euro/Global attachment on the arms and get a new HLA bucket. I bet you can get a bucket already made for less than what your time, welding supplies and metal will cost. 

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8 hours ago, TractormanMike.mb said:

I have not seen a 2250 loader that hasn't been welded and reinforced at the cross tube area. Looks like that should be a good tractor after you give it some love. I noticed it has the zf front axle. The farm had a 884 mfwd with a zf. The only issues I remember having with it was the tie rod end pulling out of the steering cylinder if someone hooked something with one of the front tires while backing up.

I've seen 2wd loaders do it, put a 4x4 on a 2250 and it's got a lot more weight behind it. They came out with the 2255 for a reason ? 

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17 hours ago, Zackridesred said:

495man, I intend on taking the loader and brackets off once I get hydraulic pressure to the loader, it looks like it will definitely make working on the engine a whole lot easier. Plus the loader itself needs work that I'll do when it's off, there are some botched weld repairs and the bushings need to be cut out/replaced as well as the cylinders needing to be resealed

Might be easier with hyds ?, but the whole thing could be slid off without if you are stuck, just need to get the frame to tip down  to make the parking stand/ramp, 

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Thanks for the input 495man. I may just get ambitious and slide the loader off without hydraulic power.

I think my post was a bit misleading, I was using building a new bucket as an example of how much work the old bucket needs. I agree that a bucket can be bought for much less than one can be custom fabricated for, even if I did it myself.

I haven't convinced myself on the skid steer bracket. I'm also considering the euro/global bracket, Definitely a lot more common on a farm tractor loader. I'll look into the HLA buckets.

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Another hint with the 2250 loader hydraulic hoses, anywhere the hoses rub together or on metal take part of an old auto heater hose or even garden hose split it and wrap it around the hydraulic hose where the rubbing is happening and secure with a couple cable ties. My brother has had a 2250 loader with the IH quick attach brackets on a 495 then moved to a 3230 for at least 25 years now.
The good thing it is only on 2WD tractor and he doesn't use as a bulldozer but has had some hoses rub through until we started doing the old heater hose trick.

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On 5/27/2020 at 7:58 AM, jimb2 said:

Another hint with the 2250 loader hydraulic hoses, anywhere the hoses rub together or on metal take part of an old auto heater hose or even garden hose split it and wrap it around the hydraulic hose where the rubbing is happening and secure with a couple cable ties. My brother has had a 2250 loader with the IH quick attach brackets on a 495 then moved to a 3230 for at least 25 years now.
The good thing it is only on 2WD tractor and he doesn't use as a bulldozer but has had some hoses rub through until we started doing the old heater hose trick.

Thanks for the input, the hydraulic hard lines and soft lines both need some work on this loader. Definitely could use some rerouting and other help to avoid chafing the lines

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I believe I found the cause of the hydraulic issues, I haven't opened up the MCV yet but I have it on the bench.

The screen for the MCV filter was caked full of junk, looks like the previous owner replaced the filter but forgot to clean the screen. I pulled the hydraulic pump apart to inspect it and see if it needed to be replaced or if it was still in good shape

Pump is shot, looks to me that it was cavitating and tried to eat itself apart. The main shaft cracked at the keyway, probably vibration from cavitating or it tried to seize.

It's a bummer, it's a genuine IH pump and it looked like it was a real quality part

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Now for some real carnage. I was curious how the brand new pump that had shavings in the pressure port looked inside. All the pictures below are from a never installed pump, not the pump that came off the Hydro 84

Total garbage as you can see. On the positive side, the gears appear do be hardened at least. . .

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14 minutes ago, IHC_1470 said:

I am sure you are aware of this however I will mention it anyway. That tractor has two hydraulic filters. Same filter used at both locations. Sad what we get for new parts now days. 

Thank you for pointing that out, it would be unfortunate if I missed the 2nd filter. The second filter and screen looked to be in good shape so I didn't post any pictures. Though there was an unsettling amount of "glitter" in the hydraulic oil. I'll be looking at the parking brake tomorrow to see if that was the cause, looked like some brass/bronze to me so we'll see.

I'm going to start trying to locate a new pump next week, hopefully I can come up with a quality pump

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Disassembled the MCV. Everything looked good except for the spring for the oil cooler bypass valve, it broke into a few pieces.

The flow divider valve moved freely as well as the main relief valve, some signs of wear but minimal. Now to order all new filters, O-rings, springs and gaskets.

I looked at the parking brake, the brake band looks to still have friction material but not much (maybe 1/16") and the drum looks to be ok. I'm going to get a better look before I put everything back together.

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On 5/27/2020 at 9:37 AM, Zackridesred said:

Thanks for the input 495man. I may just get ambitious and slide the loader off without hydraulic power.

I think my post was a bit misleading, I was using building a new bucket as an example of how much work the old bucket needs. I agree that a bucket can be bought for much less than one can be custom fabricated for, even if I did it myself.

I haven't convinced myself on the skid steer bracket. I'm also considering the euro/global bracket, Definitely a lot more common on a farm tractor loader. I'll look into the HLA buckets.

I have been told that steer couplers have a nominal 80 horsepower limit.   You will have a lot of weight behind the loader and coupler.  The Euro coupler would be more forgiving if you for instance catch the bucket corner at speed. . HLA makes good good equipment.  
I have a 485 with a Quicke loader and Euro coupler. Love that it is so easy to drop the bucket when not needed.

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13 hours ago, E160BHM said:

I have been told that steer couplers have a nominal 80 horsepower limit.   You will have a lot of weight behind the loader and coupler.  The Euro coupler would be more forgiving if you for instance catch the bucket corner at speed. . HLA makes good good equipment.  
I have a 485 with a Quicke loader and Euro coupler. Love that it is so easy to drop the bucket when not needed.

Interesting, maybe this is true for light duty skid steer brackets or the pre made adaptors for farm tractors? They use the same system on 100hp, 12,000lb track loaders without any longevity issues, I can't think of a more punishing environment than concrete demo with that type of machine and they seem to hold up ok there. But it does sound like the euro set-up is stronger still

Thanks for the input, I am leaning global/euro the more I look into it and the more feedback I get. I don't have any experience with the Euro setup but I do have a lot of experience with the skid steer equipment so I was initially thinking that would be the way to go.

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