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i’ve had this cub for a year it’s a beast snow is no problem i’m not a professional painter but i knocked off what rust i could and painted her up to look half way decent. I want to use it. 700 hours i paid $650 for it i just want to make sure i’m doing the right job to maintain it. For some reason i thought 10w30 for summer and 5w 30 for winter. then i see sae30 now for summer. your thoughts on oil for the engine and i noticed a small leak from the steering column. hydraulic fluid level is good and clean i changed that filter as well. not the oil but topped it off. it’s mowed great but i mowed with it for a couple hours and it started to miss i parked it then went out the next day and it ran great. Since then i’ve been splitting up my mowing so i take it easy on it. your thoughts on marvel mystery oil? also leak out front around the front pulley i keep cleaning off. someone said just keep it clean and check the oil and it could probably run for years. it’s so nice with power steering just one finger steering and smooth doesn’t jump around. Was thinking if the engine does go i’ll just repower  it. I can’t find a mechanic to take the engine apart and fix it. valves, seals, etc....general rebuild

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Going by the book on oil is best. Might get by with a substitute if you don't use it much or hard.

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i have a book but it doesn’t have anything on the engine just the blower and cab setup tractor spec.com says sae30 in the summer but i’ve been using 10w30 full synthetic in that little 1315 for 10 years and it still runs good.

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10W-30 FULL SYNTHETIC is fine.  Wouldn't do 10W-30 straight oil.  This is based on testing relayed on another form from an engineer in the test lab at a major small engine manufacturer (I have met him and spoke to him personally, not some internet legend).   Cliff notes:  full synthetic 10W-30 changed at 25-30 hour intervals out performs straight 30 wt. on air cooled engine tests in their labs.

MMO, yes, ounce or so per gallon of gas and a splash in the crank case.

Front seal leak:  Watch is closely or replace it.

Steering column leak:  On bottom, no big deal, likely just hose of fitting.  Out the top by the steering wheel...eventually you will have to replace a quad ring in the top part of the steering motor....not hard, but a bit meticulous.

Nice 1872, have one myself with a KwiK-Way loader, along with a 2072 and 1572.   Excellent tractors, probably the top of the heap in the Cub cadet SGT line...strong and simple, yet lots of creature comforts.....and all steel!!!

FWIW, my gas motors (all Magnum twins) all get Mobile 1 full synthetic 10W-30 year round (except for one M18 that uses some oil at the rings , it gets 15w-50 in the summer, 10W-30 winter)

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i bet the loader would be nice with the hydraulic set up it’s a shame i don’t have anything for the front hydraulic line i doubt i’ll put a plow on it cause that snowblower works nice i had a bolans before no cab and in michigan it just blows back in your face this one does as well and i just hit the wiper 

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another issue i noticed is after i mow for a while then shut it off for a little bit then get on it again it won’t run. Today i was mowing my neighbors and they came out and talked so i shut it off. Turned it back on and started to mow it lost power and quit. I have it sitting outside now hoping to finish before the rain . I got it started at full choke and limped it back. Any idea what would cause that?

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Fuel line need to replace & or filter, Carb rebuild, check fuel tank for sediment....any or all.

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thanks, i did change the line and filter i’ll get the carb looked at next had a neighbor look at my other carb a few years ago and i’ll see when he can look at it.

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