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Case 5240 stuck in 4th gear (powershift)


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Ok first off thanks to the admins for the add, really believe this will be a great asset to my farm.

I bought a case 5240 cab 2wd w/4400 hrs last year. 
 

now the PROBLEM- running the tractor last year it done great except if you turned to sharp and it would kick itself into neutral and the light flashes, a quick depress of the clutch and I was right back going with no light flashing afterwards . To my knowledge it done it in all gears. It was annoying but bearable. Well fast forward to a few days ago while I was spraying, the tractor kicked itself into neutral while turning (very possibly turned to sharp) but like normal I just clutch the tractor thinking it would take back off but it didn’t. I played around with it and finally shut the tractor off and started it back up. It is now stuck in 4th gear on the powershift side and doesn’t matter what range or fw or rev. Through this site I have got a 5 flash code on the dash and the light flashes constantly when running.  I have checked the pressure sensors and they go as follows 3rd- 2 ohms, 1st- 4 ohms,  2nd- 0 ohm, 4th- 21ohms. So I changed 4th and it is still doing the same thing, is 2 and 4 ohms to much on the others? Should I just change them all? Are the aftermarket A&I sensors reliable or should I stick with Case OEM?

Any help or other direction to go with this tractor is greatly appreciated. 

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#1 Welcome to the forum........

Does your tractor have a "N" position in shuttle?

Sounds like you may have a compound problem here, possible hydraulic pump / compensator adjustments. 

First thing you need to do is get a pressure gauge in the bottom back port of main pump. This will be straight down and just forward of where big line that goes to remote valves attaches to pump. I would suggest a 3000# gauge, here you will read low stand-by pressure, which is the pressure (4-600 psi) maintained by pump when NO demand is on the system. Next dead head a rear remote lever you should read (2750-2800 psi) now turn steering to lock this should be (300 psi) less than remotes. If pressure limiter for remotes versus steering are set to close (less than 300 psi) it will shut pump down when rapid steering. A flow tester in remote circuit is an extremely useful diagnostic tool, set it at say (10 gpm) and go thru entire regulated circuit recording each circuit. Example shift into forward you will see flow drop but it should quickly recover to 10 gpm, the same would then apply to reverse, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, pto on & off, diff lock on & off, MFD off, if flow doesn't recover you have a leak in that circuit. 

The pressure switches are the watch dog for power shift. Pressure switches open on rising pressure and close as pressure drops. Example start tractor an its in 1st power shift, switch for 1st opens while remaining switches stay closed telling module that only 1 gear is engaged. So now we shift into 2nd, switch for 1st has to close while switch for 2nd opens. If module "detects" too great of an overlap it will disengage transmission and set fault lamp. At bottom of clutch pedal travel is a diagnostic / reset switch. When pedal in held down it puts module in diagnostic mode and "flashes" a sequence of 1-6 flashes or continuous. See attachment, if clutch is quickly cycled it will only "reset" module. What can cause to great off overlap is debris in orifice of pressure switch, not allowing pressure to drop quick enough when shifted out of said gear, or poor contacts in switch no sending a "clean" signal to module. 

When A&I started offering the pressure switches I ordered one, ended up putting it in neighbors tractor, so I could watch it from a distance. Waited 6-8 months before ordering anymore. Noted that tractor has kept going so have started using them with no problems yet. 

51-5200 SERIES POWERSHIFT FAULT LAMP DIAGNOSTIC CODES

1 FLASH – INDICATES MODULE IS RECEIVING NONE OR MULTIPLE SIGNALS

2 FLASHES – INDICATES AN OFF GOING SWITCH FAILURE

3 FLASHES – INDICATES TEMP SENSOR IS OPEN OR SHORTED

4 FLASHES – INDICATES 1 OR MORE SHIFT SOLENOIDS SHORTED OUT

5 FLASHES – INDICATES AN ON COMING SWITCH FAILURE

6 FLASHES – INDICATES NONE OR MULTIPLE SIGNALS DETECTED

MORE THAN 6 FLASHES - AND TRACTOR DRIVES, CLUTCH SWITCH FAILURE

NOTE; LAMP ON STEADY TRACTOR DRIVES - INDICATES MODULE HAS RECEIVED NONE OR MULTIPLE SIGNALS, LAMP SHOULD FLASH 1 TIME WITH CLUTCH PEDAL HELD ON FLOOR.

NOTE; IF TRACTOR IS GIVING 6 FLASHES USING AN OHM METER MEASURE ALL 4 PRESSURE SWITCHES, THE ONE WITH EXTREME HI OR LOW READING IS THE CAUSE

NOTE; THE MOST COMMON IS 2 OR 5 FLASHES

NOTE; ORDER OF CIRCUITS TOP TO BOTTOM IS 3-1-2-4

NOTE; TO READ CODES HOLD CLUTCH PEDAL ON THE FLOOR UNTIL CHECK TRANS LIGHT QUITS FLASHING

NOTE; PRESSURE SWITCHES OPEN ON RAISING PRESSURE

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for todays issue ,could it actually be stuck in gear???

we had this happen many x   the gates and linkage gets worn, go under and pop back to neutral

tighten arms to input shaft/s adjust to speck    right now we need to replace some of the ball joints, at $250

since they are special  and metric MCC hasnt come up with a work around yet

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On 5/22/2020 at 6:45 AM, CIHTECH said:

First thing you need to do is get a pressure gauge in the bottom back port of main pump. This will be straight down and just forward of where big line that goes to remote valves attaches to pump. I would suggest a 3000# gauge, here you will read low stand-by pressure, which is the pressure (4-600 psi) maintained by pump when NO demand is on the system. Next dead head a rear remote lever you should read (2750-2800 psi) now turn steering to lock this should be (300 psi) less than remotes. If pressure limiter for remotes versus steering are set to close (less than 300 psi) it will shut pump down when rapid steering. A flow tester in remote circuit is an extremely useful diagnostic tool, set it at say (10 gpm) and go thru entire regulated circuit recording each circuit. Example shift into forward you will see flow drop but it should quickly recover to 10 gpm, the same would then apply to reverse, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, pto on & off, diff lock on & off, MFD off, if flow doesn't recover you have a leak in that circuit. 

Sorry, i dont mean to hijack this thread, but can you tell me what the fitting size is to fit into that test port on the main pump? I'm having hyd issues as well. remotes and hitch as next to nothing at idle, any quick steering movement at all will cause clutch to cut out, then return. also only at idle. reved up it works ok, but not great. Just had the pump replaced on advice from a service tech we had out, no fix same problem.

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19 hours ago, dialedin said:

fitting size is to fit into that test port on the main pump

3/4 - 16 ORB (O-ring boss) or 7/16 - 20 ORB have seen both sizes for whatever reason. 

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When I was working through something similar a couple years ago, I went to discounthydraulichose.com and ordered all the O-ring boss male to 3/8" NPT female adapters they had. I think I spent like $40 but now I have them all so if I ever need to check pressures I just put the correct adapter on the hose. Keep it all in a handy harbor freight toolbox.

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Yes mine has a N position on the shuttle shift, have ordered the rest of the pressure switches. Ordered some fittings, hose and gauges to start diagnosing the hydraulic pressures. I’m not 100% sure what locations I actually need to check

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Ok just a little follow up, so I have put all 4 Pressure switches In and still does the same thing. Found a plug disconnected under their cover of the hydraulic pump plugged back together but still no change. Pressure test hose and gauge should be here this week and I’ll do some more diagnosing with it. 
 

side note- I can crank the tractor and keep the clutch depressed and shift through the powershift gears and I can hear them changing and light stays off  but when the clutch is let out- it goes back to fault. 
 

Thanks to all who have replied, I’ll figure this out somehow. Don’t believe it can be much

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/22/2020 at 5:45 AM, CIHTECH said:

#1 Welcome to the forum........

Does your tractor have a "N" position in shuttle?

Sounds like you may have a compound problem here, possible hydraulic pump / compensator adjustments. 

First thing you need to do is get a pressure gauge in the bottom back port of main pump. This will be straight down and just forward of where big line that goes to remote valves attaches to pump. I would suggest a 3000# gauge, here you will read low stand-by pressure, which is the pressure (4-600 psi) maintained by pump when NO demand is on the system. Next dead head a rear remote lever you should read (2750-2800 psi) now turn steering to lock this should be (300 psi) less than remotes. If pressure limiter for remotes versus steering are set to close (less than 300 psi) it will shut pump down when rapid steering. A flow tester in remote circuit is an extremely useful diagnostic tool, set it at say (10 gpm) and go thru entire regulated circuit recording each circuit. Example shift into forward you will see flow drop but it should quickly recover to 10 gpm, the same would then apply to reverse, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, pto on & off, diff lock on & off, MFD off, if flow doesn't recover you have a leak in that circuit. 

The pressure switches are the watch dog for power shift. Pressure switches open on rising pressure and close as pressure drops. Example start tractor an its in 1st power shift, switch for 1st opens while remaining switches stay closed telling module that only 1 gear is engaged. So now we shift into 2nd, switch for 1st has to close while switch for 2nd opens. If module "detects" too great of an overlap it will disengage transmission and set fault lamp. At bottom of clutch pedal travel is a diagnostic / reset switch. When pedal in held down it puts module in diagnostic mode and "flashes" a sequence of 1-6 flashes or continuous. See attachment, if clutch is quickly cycled it will only "reset" module. What can cause to great off overlap is debris in orifice of pressure switch, not allowing pressure to drop quick enough when shifted out of said gear, or poor contacts in switch no sending a "clean" signal to module. 

When A&I started offering the pressure switches I ordered one, ended up putting it in neighbors tractor, so I could watch it from a distance. Waited 6-8 months before ordering anymore. Noted that tractor has kept going so have started using them with no problems yet. 

51-5200 SERIES POWERSHIFT FAULT LAMP DIAGNOSTIC CODES

1 FLASH – INDICATES MODULE IS RECEIVING NONE OR MULTIPLE SIGNALS

2 FLASHES – INDICATES AN OFF GOING SWITCH FAILURE

3 FLASHES – INDICATES TEMP SENSOR IS OPEN OR SHORTED

4 FLASHES – INDICATES 1 OR MORE SHIFT SOLENOIDS SHORTED OUT

5 FLASHES – INDICATES AN ON COMING SWITCH FAILURE

6 FLASHES – INDICATES NONE OR MULTIPLE SIGNALS DETECTED

MORE THAN 6 FLASHES - AND TRACTOR DRIVES, CLUTCH SWITCH FAILURE

NOTE; LAMP ON STEADY TRACTOR DRIVES - INDICATES MODULE HAS RECEIVED NONE OR MULTIPLE SIGNALS, LAMP SHOULD FLASH 1 TIME WITH CLUTCH PEDAL HELD ON FLOOR.

NOTE; IF TRACTOR IS GIVING 6 FLASHES USING AN OHM METER MEASURE ALL 4 PRESSURE SWITCHES, THE ONE WITH EXTREME HI OR LOW READING IS THE CAUSE

NOTE; THE MOST COMMON IS 2 OR 5 FLASHES

NOTE; ORDER OF CIRCUITS TOP TO BOTTOM IS 3-1-2-4

NOTE; TO READ CODES HOLD CLUTCH PEDAL ON THE FLOOR UNTIL CHECK TRANS LIGHT QUITS FLASHING

NOTE; PRESSURE SWITCHES OPEN ON RAISING PRESSURE

 

On 5/31/2020 at 9:27 PM, mmi said:

it only does this in gear.. at full pedal out...?

check the switches and functions at the pedal

 

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  • 3 months later...

Did you ever solve this issue?  Would be really helpful to other experiencing similar faults and failures.  Thanks!!  

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6 hours ago, Edsfarms said:

Did you ever solve this issue?  Would be really helpful to other experiencing similar faults and failures.  Thanks!!  

Thanks for the question because I definitely want to get my info out there just in case it might help someone or help me troubleshoot my problem some more. 
 

ok so, after the tractor had set for approx. 3 weeks with no time to work on it. I needed to put some hay in the barn and didn’t have another tractor available so I fired it up thinking I would just run it like it was but to my surprise it started shifting perfectly but by the time I was almost finished (about an hour runtime) it was kicking out of gear a lot when I would turn sharp and especially when turning sharp and raising loader at their same time. So I knew my hydraulic pressures are way low and I ordered a pump rebuild kit off eBay. This took 6 weeks to arrive since it came from Romania. I installed it and honestly didn’t get much of a rise in pressure from it but did get a little. This tractor seems to kick out the worst when turning left, hardly ever does it turning right. I’m going to try to adjust the compensator when I get time but for the moment I am using it to run my baler and it’s definitely a manageable problem. But ultimately it my need a new hydraulic pump (I hope not). I ordered a service manual on a cd but have yet to get it to work(may have got suckered) but with a paper copy costing 750$ figured 45$ pdf was worth a try. It gives a 6 flash code when it kicks out. If I think of some more things I’ll drop another comment 

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I am new to these 5XXXX. Maxxums and learning about their weaknesses.
Thanks for replying and sharing your experience and efforts.  I have a basic IT service manual for the 51XX series maybe this might help...

there is a steering relief valve on the compensator valve.

keep us posted!

hopefully a experienced Member chimes in If you are going down the wrong path.

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