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Rebuilding the DT436 on my 1466.  Head is at the machine shop getting done to it whatever they feel needs to be done to make it 100% reliable.

Thoughts on the head bolts.....can I use my old ones or new ones needed? They're like $10 a piece which I think equates to almost $260 in bolts ---  OUCH!  Haven't measured the old ones but from outward appearance, they look fine. Thoughts?

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8 minutes ago, NCIH1466 said:

Rebuilding the DT436 on my 1466.  Head is at the machine shop getting done to it whatever they feel needs to be done to make it 100% reliable.

Thoughts on the head bolts.....can I use my old ones or new ones needed? They're like $10 a piece which I think equates to almost $260 in bolts ---  OUCH!  Haven't measured the old ones but from outward appearance, they look fine. Thoughts?

Is it going to be a hard puller engine? I've reused many head bolts on those with no issues if they look clean and threads look ok 

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If your rebuilding an engine why skimp on 260$ that can easily cost more if your head doesnt clamp right and you have to tear into it... Its like doing an engine overhaul and only doing an inframe.. If your that far your better off just pulling the engine otherwise 100 hrs later the rear mains gonna start leaking lol

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They are not stretch head bolts.  Leave them alone you will be fine.

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Never had to tear one back down yet  I've done just retorque the head as required and you'll be fine I've seen new head bolts break alot of repair manuals don't say to replace them either I have a DT 436 combine engine I'm doing now I'm sure not replacing head bolts that look perfectly fine

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You won't have issues................The ones to watch are the Deere's, there is sheets on 466 blocks, head torque sequence, and whether the bolts can be reused or not by head markings...............

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I’ve been told by shops that I have bought pulling parts from that stock IH are good bolts.  Traded some to a guy that runs them on a Limited Pro.

I have used Oliver Racing lube on the head bolts before and seems to be good.  
 

Just make sure bolts are not rusted.  Had one break when disassembling a truck 466 before, but I blame it on the road salt.

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I have built at least a dozen 400 series IH engines.   Most of them field tractors, a couple in the 300 to 500HP range.   Used the original head bolts on all of them.   The big HP 466 got torqued to 180 and never had an issue.    That old steel is really good stuff IMHO. 

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3 hours ago, Thesd5488 said:

ARP studs are cheaper or get cat bolts

I would NOT use ARP studs over the original Binder head bolts.   Rod bolts is where I use ARPs. 

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14 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

Never had to tear one back down yet  I've done just retorque the head as required and you'll be fine I've seen new head bolts break alot of repair manuals don't say to replace them either I have a DT 436 combine engine I'm doing now I'm sure not replacing head bolts that look perfectly fine

This is my advice based of limited knowledge. Retorque is where most guys probably skimp. If the book says to do this then do it. THIS IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN ANYTHING. The last one I did was my little d310 and I followed the book exactly. With a turbo mounted it was a pain in the arse. But it got done. I reused my head bolts too. Just sayin 

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6 hours ago, Missouri Mule said:

This is my advice based of limited knowledge. Retorque is where most guys probably skimp. If the book says to do this then do it. THIS IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN ANYTHING. The last one I did was my little d310 and I followed the book exactly. With a turbo mounted it was a pain in the arse. But it got done. I reused my head bolts too. Just sayin 

Is retorque as much of a necessity anymore with newer head gasket materials?  

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2 hours ago, Cdfarabaugh said:

Is retorque as much of a necessity anymore with newer head gasket materials?  

I cant say one way or the other. I know I always get them to move some when retorquing them so I'm saying it is. 

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On any 400 engine that runs more than stock horsepower I retorque after a warm  up run on the dyno. 

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20 hours ago, gonzo 1066 said:

On any 400 engine that runs more than stock horsepower I retorque after a warm  up run on the dyno. 

What if dyno won’t hold where you run it 😏

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7 minutes ago, Thesd5488 said:

What if dyno won’t hold where you run it 😏

Time for a bigger dyno. 😜

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On 5/19/2020 at 6:04 PM, Cdfarabaugh said:

Is retorque as much of a necessity anymore with newer head gasket materials?  

I don't think so.  In my tenure, the only time I have retorque is if specified by the service manual.... which is almost limited to air cooled engines.  Even if an "older" manual states to, I do not.  No failures that I have ever been made aware of.  

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I have done my share of retorqueing but I also like to get them to final torque then get cooling system closed up and filled. Crank up the block heater and let her cook. Torque head again at final torque after it's heated up good. Really like for them to heat a couple hours before I do final torque. This method has worked well for me and saves a lot of time.  

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Ok, was worried I was the only one questioning a 40+ year old manual whenever materials have improved.  I did retorque on a recent d282 buikd  though, but since those will blow looking at them wrong and have a relatively low bolt torque,  its cant hurt.

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9 hours ago, CIHTECH said:

I have done my share of retorqueing but I also like to get them to final torque then get cooling system closed up and filled. Crank up the block heater and let her cook. Torque head again at final torque after it's heated up good. Really like for them to heat a couple hours before I do final torque. This method has worked well for me and saves a lot of time.  

I think Maynard or Pete  had something on here once before. Warm retorque was any thing above 70 or 80 degrees. Discussed old time mechanics showed him so it saved lots of time removing parts after engine run.

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