Jump to content

TD7E wont turn right, no brakes


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, new to the forum and seeking some sage wisdom.

I have searched the forums and haven't really seen anything that covers what i am experiencing . Just purchased a 1974 TD7E and I am having issues with turning right and no brakes.

It is the large transmission with the short drive shaft, the issue with turning is that it will not turn to the right. if i let the engine go to an idle with the right lever pulled all the way back it will turn right for a short time and then it will stop turning to the right as power is increased. and then sometimes it will gently turn to the right (seems like it turns to the right somewhat better when going uphill but I am not positive ) it turns on a dime to the left. the other issue is that it has absolutely no brakes.

Any input would be greatly appreciated

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like you need to perform brake and clutch adjustments , I will try and find the right section in the manual

It has been posted on here before , perhaps some searching using "td7"  "redpower" etc will help with a Google search (not the search on the forum)

 

 

1299265675_td7cbrakeshoedowels(609x800)(609x800).thumb.jpg.4adeac66d09168951f73753373953197.jpg1685829844_td7steering001001(745x1024).thumb.jpg.a3c6363dada55aa27ae444be164230d3.jpg1260670741_td7steering002001.thumb.jpg.46bbeb90a6641e564ff7673c03d3bcca.jpg1968944176_td7steering003001(582x800).thumb.jpg.533cb72426b29a6fb1e12cfebcb21f24.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks Kevin for the information and pictures

i have a shop manual on the way that i am sure i will need in the future

i did the external jam nut/adjusting screw procedure and nothing changed. (additional information that may help is that before i bought the machine i checked it out on an open lot and it turned right and left on a dime but it did not have any brakes at all). after the jam nut/adjuster screw procedure i ran the machine down a slight hill and discovered that with both levers in the mid position the machine will roll and if i pull the left lever fully back the left track will brake but if i pull the right lever fully back with the left lever in the mid position the machine continues to roll. and i verified that when going uphill the machine will gently turn to the right but it will not turn to the right on level ground or when going downhill. i am trying to avoid getting into the rear frame housing to do the other adjustment and am asking if there is something in the hydraulics that would cause this issue. thanks ahead of time for any helpful input.

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Mark57 said:

i am trying to avoid getting into the rear frame housing to do the other adjustment and am asking if there is something in the hydraulics that would cause this issue

I doubt there is a problem with the hydraulics ,  I would hazard a guess and say the brake linings are wore out or tore off the shoes ,

The Brake and clutch shoe job is not that bad after the tank and seat frame is off and everything cleaned up , Just cross your fingers the discs

are in decent shape 🙄       Few pix from TD7c

 

On a side note , sometimes (not often) when adjusting the brakes it requires more than one  adjustment , not only does the adjuster move the shoe but it has to shift

or slide the disc over on its splined shaft towards the inboard shoe

 

td716.thumb.jpg.1644513c3622fb031167ddf259149aba.jpg

 

2122158719_td7bleedholes(478x800).thumb.jpg.9dbcdcb96c8f9981dbfa70d360c7ee4b.jpg

897798604_td7steering.thumb.jpg.3b6e78adefa9085eccdfa6ee0345d675.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is another pic showing the orientation of both the clutch adjuster screw #16 and brake adjustment screw #4

1875296540_td7cbrakeparts001.thumb.jpg.45a7c142a3edb875bcd421e1be81fd6c.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

The adjustments that he has showed you is for when setting up with new clutches and brakes. Once is set up to adjust go on the outside in front of the sprocket and make the adjustments there takes a 1 1/2 wrench and 3/4. Loosen up nut tighten 3/4 bolt in middle till just touches and back off 2 flats. As loose as yours is hit the brake pedal and readjust till holds adjustment the lock nut down. When turning  the machine if you see the brake pedal bounce down then back up it is time to check adjustment.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jim, at one point i did see the brake pedal jump up and down when trying to make a right turn. not sure that it makes a difference but the jam nuts on my machine are 1 7/6". i adjusted both sides as you describe but still no brakes and no right turn.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The pivot brakes and foot brake are the same components.  The pivot brakes need to be adjusted and working properly before adjusting the brake foot pedal linkage.  Do you have any threads showing beyond the lock nut at the adjusters near the sprockets?

Dennis

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark, read the instructions Kevin posted, make sure you adjust the brake pedal loose enough to touch the firewall with hand pressure before adjusting. This is out of the operators manual. If you can't get the brakes adjusted then you need to look at the lining and hope you did not ruin a disc.

IH 100 Brake Adj..jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all

yes, I adjusted the foot pedal so that it contacted the firewall prior to setting the adjustments at the sprockets and then adjusted the foot pedal until i had 1" clearance from the firewall and i still have no brakes. i guess the only thing left to do is remove the rear frame cover and hope for the best

Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the transmission suction strainer and see what you find in it if you have any problems you will find it in there have had a few that have broke the rivets off of disc and will not turn. Is there any metal flake in the  oil if so you have lining that has come off. If not pushing correct on that side may want to chec final drive.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This would be a good video to watch. 

(12) TD7C Bulldozer Clutch & Brake Job - YouTube

Could possibly be, but not that likely,, that your brake linings are OK but the foot brake lever is broke and in a position that prevents the steering hydraulics from applying the bake for steering on the right side. 

 

gg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I have it apart and am surprised at what I found. on the right side (the direction it wont turn) brake and clutch pads are all in place and look good. on the left side (the side that i didn't think was the issue) the brake pad has come off the eccentric and the brake disc is scored.but the clutch pads are good. am i missing something ?  please see the pictures below. thanks in advance for any helpful information

20200530_112159.jpg

20200530_112207.jpg

20200530_112519.jpg

20200530_112438.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark,  My opinion is reline them all now that they are out and replace the disc. It looks like you may need at least one shoe also.  I would also reseal the pistons while in there.  Others will hopefully have an opinion also.  You should be good to go for a long time then.

good luck on your project

Dennis

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, farmalldr said:

Mark,  My opinion is reline them all now that they are out and replace the disc. It looks like you may need at least one shoe also.  I would also reseal the pistons while in there.  Others will hopefully have an opinion also.  You should be good to go for a long time then.

good luck on your project

Dennis

X2

Link to post
Share on other sites

X3 .New disc needed , and shoe , reline all,  Breaking track and final drive work is no fun !  The best part is finishing the job 😀  Check all bearings while you have it apart and of

course new seals are a must , best of luck , take lotsa pix

Link to post
Share on other sites

what would be a good source for the parts i need? i am in Memphis, tn. not really wanting to remove the final drive to replace the disc, what would be the downside of not replacing the disc as i am just using this machine on my own property and it will not get that many hours on it. thanks for all the input so far.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mark,  I would not pass on doing the disc.  If left as is it will give you very short life of your new lining and probably a chattery (sp) application.  Removing the final drive is not that big of deal but you will need some type of lifting device like an engine lift which you can probably rent if you do not have one.  The final does not have to be disassembled, just removed.  The biggest thing will be getting the track master pin/link to the right place to get the track off.  Best at the sprocket.  Idler end would work also if you have room to lay the track out off the sprocket.  Your tractor-your choice but you don't want to go back in there again.

Parts suggestions--FP Smth in Calif. or General Gear in Idaho.  Probably others also.  Kevin on here may have a line on a reline shop for the shoes.

Aren't tractors fun--    Dennis

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark

I have a TD7E that had the same problems you have, Kevin helped me and recommended Clutch and Friction service they were great.

They changed the pads for 96 dollars per pad this was 2 or 3 years back and they still work perfect. I would also say change the disc you will be much happier in the long run. My disc looked like yours and I replaced it.

Good luck Glenn

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...