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searcyfarms

great debate on cutters

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yea yea i know been cussed and discussed probably over n over - looking at a 15' batwing would like to have a 20 but hard to find them and heard more issues with them and hinges/torque/flex? I still woudl consider if found tho. 

I dont have $$ to buy a new fancy/schmancy - not many schulte around here at all - an occasional bush whacker - mostly rhino or bush hog country

My buddy has two old servus/rhino mowers all 540s - both 3 gearbox models, one new enough to have stump jumpers on it - other one yellow - got a newer one that the divider box gernaded on when it lost the oil out the bottom seal and blew up literally - FYI - NO ONE and I mean NO ONE makes the divider boxes that have the front blade running from them, they have all gone to the 4th gearbox with a pass thru divider. That is why my buddy had to buy a parts mower. 

So i ran across a 1000 mower - same ole Rhino - wondering if its worth looking at 1000 rpm and difference on them vs 540 i read 1000 are harder on ujoints and gearbox seals cause driving line is running twice as fast? that true? Noisier because of turning and knuckles running faster ? 

just wanted to hear your thoughs/experience as i trust your guys input in real world use vs some unknown google reply 

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I have a 2615 bush hog been a really good machine for me ,it is 540 RPM so I can't help you with the 1000 RPM question.

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as far as use it will be mowing 2 to 3 y/o CRP Growth primarily which means trees up to 2inch diameter at times - not much easy clipping with it other than road ditches/pasture ditches  after the neighbor pulls the hay off 

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I have cut brush with this one, some up to 4 inches , and it handles it fine unless something gets jammed underneath then the clutch will slip

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I would think with a larger mower 1000 rpm would be better as it should absorb shock loads better which will lead to longer gearbox and ujoint life. There’s a reason 90% of large mowers are 1000 pto.

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4 minutes ago, jworley said:

I would think with a larger mower 1000 rpm would be better as it should absorb shock loads better which will lead to longer gearbox and ujoint life. There’s a reason 90% of large mowers are 1000 pto.

should and do are two different things, i would like to think so too, but just wondered what guys experience is with them on here - i know guys on here have to have some and could compare. Honestly we havnet had issues with any ujoints on the 540s - im easier on things, i dont mow HEAVY tree stuff over 1 or 2 inches when i am mowing i let my buddy do that as they are HIS mowers and I dont want to be running it if something breaks. I just like to run tractors n mow so that is what i do and leave him that gnarley stuff. He has shelled the pto housing on his 2-105 and i think it was from the shock of all that hammering over the years backing into big trees or driving over them and mowing them with all that shock. He is not one to check the slip clutches either so could have been an issue. 

Other than that one blowing out the seal and oil thus grenading the distribution gearbox thas the only real trouble besides wearing otu the slip clutches. So cant really complain about the mower performance 

thanks for the response, i hope you are right and it makes sense 

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I would say 1000 would be hard on everything---gears/bearings/and drive lines! --- I never understood WHY do you want to run driveline at 1000 then reduce it down in the gearbox to same blade speed as 540! --- makes no sence to me! --- Grab a 540 unit!

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Back in the dark days of the mid '80s when I found my sockets full of green and yellow paint out of the necessity that my kids liked to eat every day I encountered a mower with a huge problem.

It would either smoke the slip clutch or break/twist the drive shaft or destroy the main gear box. It was a 15 foot JD with 540 drive. The owner used it on a 4430.

In discussion with Gene Zehner, the John Deere service rep, I started asking him about switching it to 1000 rpm after I had figured out it was a matter of just swapping the input and output gears in the main gear box and getting the proper drive line pieces which amounted to a different yoke on the drive shaft. 

After that was changed the problems stopped. The owner could mow as hard as expected without a breakdown.

The difference is, with 1000 RPM there is less torque transmitted through the drive shaft and gear box input shaft since the reduction is inside the gear box. 

Therefore, my recommendation is to go with the 1000 rpm mower.

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3 hours ago, searcyfarms said:

should and do are two different things, i would like to think so too, but just wondered what guys experience is with them on here - i know guys on here have to have some and could compare. Honestly we havnet had issues with any ujoints on the 540s - im easier on things, i dont mow HEAVY tree stuff over 1 or 2 inches when i am mowing i let my buddy do that as they are HIS mowers and I dont want to be running it if something breaks. I just like to run tractors n mow so that is what i do and leave him that gnarley stuff. He has shelled the pto housing on his 2-105 and i think it was from the shock of all that hammering over the years backing into big trees or driving over them and mowing them with all that shock. He is not one to check the slip clutches either so could have been an issue. 

Other than that one blowing out the seal and oil thus grenading the distribution gearbox thas the only real trouble besides wearing otu the slip clutches. So cant really complain about the mower performance 

thanks for the response, i hope you are right and it makes sense 

Maybe I should have phrased it as “will”. 
 More speed means less torque on the shaft per revolution. 
 Speaking from experience, a big mower with 1000 pto will be a lot less trouble than a 540. There’s shock loads on it even if you take it easy and 1000 can handle it much better. Spinning 3-4 gearboxes on a 540 shaft is a big load.

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1000 rpm............I would never consider a batwing with 540.  Not much issue with the gearboxes, but issues everywhere between those and the tractor output shaft!  Guys around me though sure have a hang up with the 540 shaft, I like 1000 where ever I can get it.

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1000 RPM will take a lot more HP/torque.  A 540 shaft in all reality shouldnt have much more than 100hp through it.  A 15ft mower has no problem soaking 100hp......so theres your answer

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1 hour ago, Cdfarabaugh said:

1000 RPM will take a lot more HP/torque.  A 540 shaft in all reality shouldnt have much more than 100hp through it.  A 15ft mower has no problem soaking 100hp......so theres your answer

 boy aint that the truth, it eats my buddies 2-105's lunch in that tall thick stuff and my 706/german works its tail off on those 540s 

 

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Every 540 implement we have had are louder than the exact same implement with 1000 drive . Torque makes more vibration when transferring power from here to there . We have a 15' batwing in the 540 only because it was really nice price. Unfortunately most of the ones we see are 540 at the local sales. 540 rpm PTO was rated for transferring 85 horsepower only

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we just clip pasture and make lines but we switched to 1000 and never looked back i know where a 540 and 1000 are running side by side right now and the 1000 gives a better cut since day one and as a lot have said it is easier on the tractor bushhog and even you in the end the splines on the shafts seem to not bur like a 540, plus in this area someone is less likely to try and borrow your equipment if its a 1000 but every honest person i know says once they went to a 1000 they was happier

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Not to hijack but since we're talking about it would anyone know how to change a main gearbox to 1000. I know some things are easy to swap and Maynard said that jd mower was an easy deal but I’ve had my main box apart and think all the gears are the same size. I’m guessing a new main box is what’s needed on something like that. I’ll make some calls and find out but I don’t think mine was ever intended to be switched

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i believe you would need the ring/pinion gear ration to be changed out, presuming you are talking about a new through put shaft as well as secondary gears that drive the output to the wing boxes, i am not sure if the wing boxes need regeared too but i would imagine it could be done either way

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Running a 12815 Bushogg brand behind a 5288 and love it if I remember it does have a little faster tip speed on the 1000

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