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Cooter

Can't stop 806 oil tube leak

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I know there are a few posts regarding this, but I am really struggling with mine.   It had the orange O-rings put in when I reassembled the engine and they started leaking , so I put black rtv in the seals, reassembled, and it stopped for a while.  Now it started leaking again.  It leaks REALLY REALLY bad when it's cold and you first start it up and once it's warm it will stop for the most part, but oil gets expensive when it uses more than a gallon in an afternoon.  Anything else to try?  A thicker O-ring?  Someone told me they make a square ring?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

FEDCF543-3A38-4A93-BC99-6F625DA171D5.jpeg

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If that was mine, I would disassemble it and check the bores and oring grooves for pitting.  Clean and dry everything.   Install new orings, and use a liberal application or 515 or 505 Lockite "gap sealer" type sealant. The same stuff CIH recommends for the brake housing on 86 series tractors.   I've never had any luck with normal RTV on orings.  I've had numerous cases where RTV leaked or failed, and the Locktite stuff fixed the issue.   That being said, I've never used it on that particular joint.

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368548r1 is the quad ring # u need then make sure tube is straight when putting back together may have to shim between tube and where it bolts to block

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51 minutes ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

If that was mine, I would disassemble it and check the bores and oring grooves for pitting.  Clean and dry everything.   Install new orings, and use a liberal application or 515 or 505 Lockite "gap sealer" type sealant. The same stuff CIH recommends for the brake housing on 86 series tractors.   I've never had any luck with normal RTV on orings.  I've had numerous cases where RTV leaked or failed, and the Locktite stuff fixed the issue.   That being said, I've never used it on that particular joint.

That's one place where anaerobic sealant will not work. Not enough area enclosed from air to make those sealants work.

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32 minutes ago, hippy5488 said:

368548r1 is the quad ring # u need then make sure tube is straight when putting back together may have to shim between tube and where it bolts to block

You are correct sir.
The key is getting the tube aligned so the seal glands are square in the bore. Provided the bore does not have grooves worn in it.

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40 minutes ago, Maynard said:

You are correct sir.
The key is getting the tube aligned so the seal glands are square in the bore. Provided the bore does not have grooves worn in it.

What makes it align square in the tube and how do you know? 

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1 hour ago, Cooter said:

What makes it align square in the tube and how do you know? 

Put shim washers behind the bracket that bolts to the side cover on the engine.

Adjust it so the seal glands on the ends of the tube are square in their bores. 

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THAT TUBE IS STILL AVAILBLE NEW FROM MOTHER CASEIH.JUST REPLACE IT NEW...

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I lot of these engines have enough years in them that the bore in the oil pump has a bad groove wore in it. 

Try the quad ring.

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3 hours ago, farmall666 said:

THAT TUBE IS STILL AVAILBLE NEW FROM MOTHER CASEIH.JUST REPLACE IT NEW...

Oh wow, it sure is.........for a mere $383.80 🥺.  So at that price I have some room to explore some other options, but will certainly circle back to this should I get in a pinch.........

 

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10 hours ago, Maynard said:

Put shim washers behind the bracket that bolts to the side cover on the engine.

Adjust it so the seal glands on the ends of the tube are square in their bores. 

Hhmmmm, this tube doesn't have a bracket 🤔.  Nor does it appear to have ever had one

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Maybe you can find a tube with a brace on it at a salvage hard or try the quad rings first. Never seen one without the brace.

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I took my housing off and had it brazed and honed out because it had a groove worn in it. That was 7 or 8 years ago and it's still dry.

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