J-Mech Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 3 minutes ago, MinnesotaFarmall said: Set up shims on differential. Measured via blue ribbon book and got .090" for shim value. Set up shim pack and installed it. I can get .011" backlash, but if I shim it up tighter but retaining the .090" value for preload, the ring and pinion gets offly stiff, and doesn't turn well. I think I'm going to stick with the .011" backlash as it is in spec of .005-.015". Did you install new bearings? Used the old ring gear correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinnesotaFarmall Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 Yes new bearings. Old ring gear and pinion so wear patterns match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Mech Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 1 minute ago, MinnesotaFarmall said: Yes new bearings. Old ring gear and pinion so wear patterns match. .011" backlash is perfect. Leave it. Preload sounds right. Better to err on the side of loose than too tight. Should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdfarabaugh Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 9 hours ago, MinnesotaFarmall said: Yes new bearings. Old ring gear and pinion so wear patterns match. Quick tip, make sure you check lash at 4 equidistant places around the ring gear in case you have any variations. Had a 1066 that had probably .005-.006 of runout on the ring gear that made it a bit if a headache adjusting backlash, and had to play around a bit to get it between the spec all around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksfarmdude Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 16 minutes ago, Cdfarabaugh said: Quick tip, make sure you check lash at 4 equidistant places around the ring gear in case you have any variations. Had a 1066 that had probably .005-.006 of runout on the ring gear that made it a bit if a headache adjusting backlash, and had to play around a bit to get it between the spec all around. That's kind of a mute point checking it 4 places since none will ever be constant would tell me the case may not be true or not torqued correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Mech Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 2 hours ago, Cdfarabaugh said: Quick tip, make sure you check lash at 4 equidistant places around the ring gear in case you have any variations. Had a 1066 that had probably .005-.006 of runout on the ring gear that made it a bit if a headache adjusting backlash, and had to play around a bit to get it between the spec all around. You had other issues. Like possibly debris between the carrier and ring gear, warped carrier, misalignment in the bearing caps..... I would have taken the whole thing back apart and found it. You should not have that much runout difference. .005/6", that's a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksfarmdude Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 I always mark the case before disasembly and ring gear in relation to the case to make sure that part stays to same position Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Mech Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 4 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said: I always mark the case before disasembly and ring gear in relation to the case to make sure that part stays to same position What? The carrier or case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksfarmdude Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 Just now, J-Mech said: What? The carrier or case? Yes I call it the carrier (case) that the ring gear mates with , My terminology may be different than yours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Mech Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 13 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said: Yes I call it the carrier (case) that the ring gear mates with , My terminology may be different than yours Ok. Well, the part the ring gear is bolted to is called the carrier. It's not "my" term, it is the proper name. The carrier and ring gear are independent parts. They do not need matched. This also would be moot in this instance as the carrier was replaced but the ring gear was not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdfarabaugh Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 3 hours ago, J-Mech said: You had other issues. Like possibly debris between the carrier and ring gear, warped carrier, misalignment in the bearing caps..... I would have taken the whole thing back apart and found it. You should not have that much runout difference. .005/6", that's a lot. How did I not expect you to flame me for this. The story on this situation is too long to type, but unfortunately when dealing with stuff built 40 years ago, you cant just buy all new OEM stuff. Lots of mix and matching had to occur. Actually found an NOS carrier that had a defect my dealer had, but needed the one bearing fit re machined. Not sure if that was the issue, the ring and pinion, or the bearing caps. I got it within specs, it was pretty quiet actually, and it's been running for 9 years. I'm just trying to give advice on this guy to check stuff, no need to go jumping on me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Mech Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 4 minutes ago, Cdfarabaugh said: I'm just trying to give advice on this guy to check stuff, no need to go jumping on me. There is also no need to take a one in 10000 rare occurance issue that likely was caused when you machined the parts, and throw that wild example into the mix adding confusion, and also doing it with no back story. While it may have happened to you one time, that is extremely, extremely rare that there would be a runout issue like that. I'm wasn't "flaming" you before, but I am now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale560 Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 8 minutes ago, Cdfarabaugh said: How did I not expect you to flame me for this. The story on this situation is too long to type, but unfortunately when dealing with stuff built 40 years ago, you cant just buy all new OEM stuff. Lots of mix and matching had to occur. Actually found an NOS carrier that had a defect my dealer had, but needed the one bearing fit re machined. Not sure if that was the issue, the ring and pinion, or the bearing caps. I got it within specs, it was pretty quiet actually, and it's been running for 9 years. I'm just trying to give advice on this guy to check stuff, no need to go jumping on me. Your advice was spot on. I think every manual says to rotate ring gear if clearance issues occur and recheck setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdfarabaugh Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 14 minutes ago, J-Mech said: There is also no need to take a one in 10000 rare occurance issue that likely was caused when you machined the parts, and throw that wild example into the mix adding confusion, and also doing it with no back story. While it may have happened to you one time, that is extremely, extremely rare that there would be a runout issue like that. I'm wasn't "flaming" you before, but I am now. How am I adding confusion? Just made a recommendation to check backlash at multiple points (which is recommended in some service info) and said why it was a good idea with personal experience. Go work on something and put your energy into being a "supertech" instead of getting into fights on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Mech Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 8 minutes ago, Cdfarabaugh said: How am I adding confusion? Just made a recommendation to check backlash at multiple points (which is recommended in some service info) and said why it was a good idea with personal experience. Go work on something and put your energy into being a "supertech" instead of getting into fights on here. Oh, I'm plenty busy. But I can do more than one thing at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Mech Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 23 minutes ago, Cdfarabaugh said: Just made a recommendation to check backlash at multiple points (which is recommended in some service info) and said why it was a good idea with personal experience. FWIW, you aren't giving bad advice to check it out, so I apologize. You gave no information as to your story, and a .005/6" runout difference would make me tear things apart looking for answers. That is why I made the comment I did. Some variation isn't unusual, and typically I check backlash in a at the very least the tightest spot. But a very big deviation and I'm looking deeper. It wasn't your story that I didn't like, it was your "quit picking on me" (when i wasn't) reply after my comment that irritated me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinnesotaFarmall Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 In all interest of laying it staright, yes it does say that, and yes, I did do that. .002" variation in four different spots, 90* apart using the cross in the carrier as markers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Mech Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 11 hours ago, MinnesotaFarmall said: In all interest of laying it staright, yes it does say that, and yes, I did do that. .002" variation in four different spots, 90* apart using the cross in the carrier as markers. An acceptable amount for the size of the ring gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinnesotaFarmall Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 I have a new delima... Upon reinstalling the drives, I realized the shaft coming out of the diff has a bad bearing on it. Called around, no ih dealer had it, so ordered it, but in the mean time, I can not get this bad boy off the shaft. It's too tight to the shoulder to get my bearing puller on it, and a hammer and soft brass chisel won't get under it.... Any other recommendations besides diligent work for a torch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 Heat the race. Bump shaft on bench. Race falls off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NY1468 Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 If you don’t want to torch it, cut it off with a grinder. Split the outer race and then all the guts will come out and then all you have to do is grind through one side of the inner race and it will come right off. Used to do that on a blind wheel bearing that was a throw away item on a car years ago. Bearing was cheap but the whole thing was salty so I would grind it out with a die grinder with a small cut off wheel and save $200 bucks. That one would be easy to do that way and you won’t nick the shaft or heat it up with a torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinnesotaFarmall Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 1 hour ago, NY1468 said: If you don’t want to torch it, cut it off with a grinder. Split the outer race and then all the guts will come out and then all you have to do is grind through one side of the inner race and it will come right off. Used to do that on a blind wheel bearing that was a throw away item on a car years ago. Bearing was cheap but the whole thing was salty so I would grind it out with a die grinder with a small cut off wheel and save $200 bucks. That one would be easy to do that way and you won’t nick the shaft or heat it up with a torch. Never thought of that..... Don't know why, I've don't a million wheel bearings that way to save myself the headache..... Sometimes you got to go with the kiss method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinnesotaFarmall Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 Finally got her on her own feet again. Got the top lift cover on, and installed new mcv kit with new pump. Have to get hydro seat in so I can check pressures and hopefully no leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinnesotaFarmall Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 Finally moves on her own power again. Time to take it for a test drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfred54 Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 Good looking rig there? Hope all is well for another 10 years with her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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