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1586 ring and pinion


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Yep its toasted . Do you do a lot of spinning in muddy conditions pulling heavy loads? Haven't seen one worn quite that bad I know others will jump on me on this but I'd start running that tractor 5 gal over full on hytran  when your done

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21 minutes ago, Mighty1206 said:

Make sure you have the right gasket between the TA housing and rearend. If you have the wrong one in there the diff won't get proper lubrication.

I did have trans apart once on this machine which has me slightly nervous now... But it has been almost four or five years using this tractor every spring for nearly three hundred acres of corn.. I know it's not a lot to some. It doesn't have any sight of overheating, i.e. blued edges. 

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Common problem on a 15 series.  

Yes, make sure it has the right gasket between range and speed housing. If there is any question, split it to check. 

Different carrier is junk.  Get a used one from anything but a 15.

No need for more oil.  Wouldn't matter anyway.  It can't get inside the diff unless it was at least half submerged.  No holes in the housing for oil to get in. 

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We done 26 of the 66 series with the differential recall in the 70's.

We found when setting the ring and pinion, use the tighter clearances for a quiet rear end.

When you go to the looser side, that is when the differential noises start.

The inside of these are basically the same but I can see many changes from my time.

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I can't help but wonder ,  I bet with all those worn out differential parts I'd think it would sound like a corn sheller turning or spinning a wheel

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1 hour ago, ksfarmdude said:

I can't help but wonder ,  I bet with all those worn out differential parts I'd think it would sound like a corn sheller turning or spinning a wheel

My thoughts too. It didn't make any noticable noise. I doubt I have the wrong gasket in there because it wouldn't have made it four years... If I would have put wrong gasket in there, everything would have let loose sooner. 

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4 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

I can't help but wonder ,  I bet with all those worn out differential parts I'd think it would sound like a corn sheller turning or spinning a wheel

It would have.  I've pulled several 15's apart before that looked like that.  Most operators catch it before it stops moving, but not all.  Last one I did, guy quit using it and we got it in just in time.  Hadn't chewed all the way through.  Once it starts to eat itself, it goes fast. 

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2 hours ago, MinnesotaFarmall said:

I doubt I have the wrong gasket in there because it wouldn't have made it four years

Only 300 acres right?  Didn't I read that?  That's not many.  Think I also read where you don't pull anything big with it.  At the very least, I'd put a gauge on the lube circuit. Honestly I don't know how someone would put in the wrong gasket unless they just weren't paying attention.

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Yes, it's not been abused, in no way or shape. We treat our machinery very well. I am tempted to put a hair on it, because last time I drove it, I sort of remember it seemed like the steering was hard to turn. I will check the lube pressure. I did pull the three point link cover and remember seeing oil come down around the differential carrier too with it just idling. 

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On the gasket subject, I'm sure it's the right one because I ordered the gasket kit from case ih for a 1586, and had to give them the serial number. I checked if against what was left of the old gasket and only remember one hole going through the rear end. 

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18 minutes ago, MinnesotaFarmall said:

I sort of remember it seemed like the steering was hard to turn. I will check the lube pressure. I did pull the three point link cover and remember seeing oil come down around the differential carrier too with it just idling. 

Steering hard as in difficult to turn the wheel? Or as in needed brakes to steer it?  Both issues were likely related to the chewed up diff.  The debris was plugging, or had plugged off the filter causing the hydraulic system to have low pressure due to starvation.  Turning it, the differential would not have wanted to spin as it should.  Binding up.

Lube pressure and steering pressure are two different circuits.  They are related, but steering pressure can be fine while lube is low.

16 minutes ago, MinnesotaFarmall said:

and only remember one hole going through the rear end. 

The hole is in a different location on a 15.  If a smaller tractor gasket was used it would partially cover the lube hole. Not completely as I recall, only partially. Other than that, they are pretty much the same.  Seems like the 15 also has a zigzag cut out on it to lube the reverse idler shaft, that was cut slightly different than a <15 gasket.  But at quick glance, or comparing to a torn old gasket, you wouldn't notice.  You would notice when you stuck it on *IF* you were paying attention. 

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I'm certain there was only one gasket in the kit, and I do remember it being completely open. Turn the wheels as in the effort needed to turn the wheels. Once wheels were turned it turned ok untill it quit moving. 

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Exactly why I took the whole rear end. The local yard and I have a good relationship. I bring the whole thing home, bring back what I don't need and they of course get paid honest and fair. Here is the new rear end diff. Cross is stamped ih, and it honestly looks nearly new. Some wear on gears, but nothing on housing or anything major.

KIMG0182.JPG

KIMG0181.JPG

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Set up shims on differential. Measured via blue ribbon book and got .090" for shim value. Set up shim pack and installed it. I can get .011" backlash, but if I shim it up tighter but retaining the .090" value for preload, the ring and pinion gets offly stiff, and doesn't turn well. I think I'm going to stick with the .011" backlash as it is in spec of .005-.015".

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