Little Y Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 Now what do i do with it. I've just purchased the Mogul pictured below and still can't believe it. I've dreamed of owning this dragon since i was a kid. My father owned it briefly in 1954 then sold it back to the original owner's grandson when he moved to FL. Dad said he got it running just long enough to run it maybe a couple hundred yards. It was again parked in a barn where it sat until we pulled it out last Saturday. The engine is loose and from the looks of it there's a good bit of original paint under the grease. the serial number puts it toward the end of the production run in 1917 according to Tractordata.com. The plan is to get it running and conserve the 'finish' as is. I believe I've seen the phrase 'left in it's work clothes' used in these pages. what i could use is some advice if anyone has any. Of course, it would be perfect if someone has written the definitive work on rebuilding a 1917 Mogul 8-16. Barring that, I would be happy to see someone's greasy notes. Or a phone call with stories, warnings, and encouragement. what are the special pitfalls with this particular tractor as well as technology of this age in general? Such as "...and above all, when you go into the bottom end be damn sure to clean the slinger or it'll never see more than 30 minutes on the first run". At least that was good advice when working on BMW motorcycles from the 60's. Otherwise I'll start into it as anything else, taking plenty of pictures than begin to take it apart. for starters, what's the best way to remove 100 yr old caked on grease w/o damaging underlying paint or driving it into places it shouldn't go? I look forward to any knowledge imparted. The man to the left in the second photo is my father while the fellow in the background is the grandson of the original purchaser of the tractor and the one that sold it to me. 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nepoweshiekfarmalls Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 Congratulations! Nice to have an old friend come home again. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustred Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 man you hit the jackpot there!! totally agree with leaving in its work clothes as its complete and all original. tough parts will be the clean up, trying to keep originality on it. painting it will devalue that unit for sure. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustred Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 I think a steamer would be the best choice to remove grease. careful on what degreaser you pick as some will remove or fade paint. unless you plan on a disassembly of it to clean it. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmi Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 this one is later model, rough but runs ,all i can offer is fair contact where it is stored Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
560Dennis Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 Pretty nice ,tractor ❗️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Y Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 i appreciate the input, thanks. I'll try steam/hot water for grease removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomorejohndeere Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 kewl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1snappyIH Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 awesome find... cherish it, not too many survivors out there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.B. Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 That's really cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Y Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 A local fellow thinks even the cake-on grease and dust should not be removed in order to maintain the tractor's "story", patina, etc. I just want to ensure all moving parts have the appropriate lubrication without any grit. still gathering information... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 The antiques that get the most attention these days at shows around here are the ones that are left alone cosmetically but made to run . Personally I would leave it as is and not remove all the patina . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exSW Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 On 5/5/2020 at 9:24 PM, Little Y said: A local fellow thinks even the cake-on grease and dust should not be removed in order to maintain the tractor's "story", patina, etc. I just want to ensure all moving parts have the appropriate lubrication without any grit. still gathering information... On 5/15/2020 at 3:59 AM, lorenzo said: The antiques that get the most attention these days at shows around here are the ones that are left alone cosmetically but made to run . Personally I would leave it as is and not remove all the patina . I'm a big believer in it's only original once. But rust,dust,dirt,cobwebs,mouse sh!t and grease aren't original. You have to stabilize it so it doesn't deteriorate further. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty shackleford Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 what a gem, I love moguls, I just brought home a baby 1hp mogul engine, 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty shackleford Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 I like to see them restored but done like original, and then used, nothing looks better than a tractor that looks like its 10 to 20 years old instaid of 100 years old, alot of restorations look better than new, i say make it look like it did on the farm being used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Y Posted April 4, 2021 Author Share Posted April 4, 2021 Hello, Where could I find a parts diagram or similar for a Madison-Kipp Model 30 lubricator? this is lubricator off the 1917 Mogul 8-16. hoping a parts diagram would guide in reassembling the spring loaded pawl that attaches to the lubricator case. I'll call this the stationary pawl. This pawl that holds the cam gear in place while the actuator arm and pawl returns to 'home' for another stroke and turn of the 'cam' shaft. This pawl was working as intended when disassembled and don't believe I misplaced any parts but i'm starting to doubt that. The stationary pawl, spring steel, and holder and bolt are not a complex bit of machinery. There are some wear patterns on the spring steel and pawl that appear to indicate how they were in contact. But no matter how I assemble it, the spring does not properly keep the pawl against the gear to do it's job. I have fashioned a couple washers as shims to place on the bolt and under the spring metal to make it work but I'm concerned this is not the proper assembly and don't know how it would hold up under operation. Not a ton of progress since last summer but no insurmountable problems yet either. the three individual oil pumps within the lubricator had broken tabs on the bottom adjusters; had the tabs welded back on by a local shop (he didn't charge me for the work! shout out to Excel Steel of Harrisonburg, VA). My guess is at some point water got in the pump (the sight window material was not in place) and freezing expanded the adjustment sleeves breaking the threaded tabs. I reassembled the repaired pumps, refit them to the case and cam and they pump when the lubricator is hand cranked. don't know what the flow should be. one of the pumps was also missing a small spring for the check valve and after some trial and error found a spring that worked once cut to appropriate length. Cleaned up the fuel pump and magneto. still working at getting the carburetor off; the heat riser pipe is stubborn. going to pull the ignitor assembly for inspection, remove the old oil from the governor and inspect, bunch of dust, dirt, and grime where the compression release and push rods enter the case, the bands are tight on the clutch, drive chain not real free, drain the bottom end and check out the crankcase valve, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catman13 Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 please leave it in its work clothes , restored tractor are ok , but i love them looking like they just came out of the field . all of mine are in the work clothes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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