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656 rebuild restoration continued


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It runs!

One little coolant leak at the temp sensor, just snugged it a bit more.  Slight leak around filter base on small bolts, just snugged them a bit more.

Did 4 heat cycles.  It sounds a bit deeper at idle and really responds when you crack the throttle.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had it running a bunch the last 2 Saturdays.  It was running a bit on the warm side so last Monday I ordered a high flow 160 degree Mopar thermostat same diameter as the Internationals at 2.5".  Put that in today and also drilled a 3/16" bleed hole.  This engine puts out some heat!  Last Saturday, the temperature gauge was sitting nearly in the center and my fear was under load it was going to run even hotter.  I found parts on the block that were hitting 195 and it had a 170 thermostat in it.  There is a brand new water pump on what started to happen was the lower hose started to get warm shortly after start up and stayed that way.  The only logical conclusion was pump was pulling heat out of the head through the bypass hose while the thermostat was closed or restricted.  Now it sits right between the 2 lines and any where I look on the head the hottest I see is 180 degrees.

I ran it down the driveway in 5th gear and for a gasser its got some guts.  This would certainly explain some of the heat issue lol.  Any way we are ready for dyno!  My dyno guy is tied up with harvest/wrenching but will be over soon to break her in and twist her tail.  Any work from here is cosmetic, fenders, sheet metal etc.  I do have a exhaust manifold modification I will be working on for final dyno tune.

I have a video but can't upload a MP4☹

Scott

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today was dyno day!  We broke it in to seat everything.  Doing the 30%-%50-%100-%30 load process.  Could not be more pleased!  90hp at 540pto. It was sitting at 85 for a most of this then at the end I bumped the timing 2 degrees advanced and it jumped 5hp.  It might make alittle more with some more fuel if I drill out the jet.  It will be backed down about 10hp for field work it runs alittle cleaner and will make less trips to the fuel barrel.  Not bad for 87 octane and stock 656 carb.  I will upload a video later from YouTube.

Scott

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I have never been connected with modifying a tractor motor, couple of curiosity questions.

I notice that you coat the ports, is this for flow or heat?

I also notice that you do not do any work on the ports in regard to porting or polishing. Is that something that is not done on tractor motors, or not enough rpm to make it worth while?

You go to the extent of degreeing, cc'ing, and coating, do you do any balancing?

I realize that it's all about cost and end product. Your not building a Super Stocker, but I have no idea how far they go.

Nice job, I hope it works out good for you.

I had not seen a pto dyno before, that one looks like it has been around for awhile.

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7 hours ago, Duntongw said:

I have never been connected with modifying a tractor motor, couple of curiosity questions.

I notice that you coat the ports, is this for flow or heat?

I also notice that you do not do any work on the ports in regard to porting or polishing. Is that something that is not done on tractor motors, or not enough rpm to make it worth while?

You go to the extent of degreeing, cc'ing, and coating, do you do any balancing?

I realize that it's all about cost and end product. Your not building a Super Stocker, but I have no idea how far they go.

Nice job, I hope it works out good for you.

I had not seen a pto dyno before, that one looks like it has been around for awhile.

Coating is heat barrier on exhaust ports and combustion chambers this is the same benefits as aluminum heads for the car guys.  I knew trying to run more compression and 87 octane was a risk.  This was the recipe to eliminate detonation.

There was some port work done, I knocked the rough areas down on the intake and exhaust.  I also worked the short turn radius on the intake ports just blending and smoothing, this was a learned benefit from the past on this particular head.  We changed some of the seat angles and I will keep that to myself on what we changed.  Depending on the type of usage which in my case, field use you have to keep in mind through this whole process this is on a governor and most time the throttle shaft is just cracked open when engine is light loaded.  So the added benefits to larger ports or larger valves will not help, also there are some mistakes on this head and manifold that create some poor inefficiencies.  You want velocity and good fuel mixing!

Yes I did not go into detail but everything was balanced, crank, rods, pistons, balancer, flywheel and pressure plate.

Yes pto dyno was a bit old but does the job he says it leaks a bit of oil...

Thanks I hope and expect it to last the rest of my life!

Scott

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did some routine maintenance and adjusted the valves.  And finally did the manifold swap to try my split manifold concept.  So far it does not like the small tubes.  I am using 1-1/8 & 1-1/4 for the primary and 1-1/2 & 1-3/4.  The smallest one I tried lost a bunch, like 10-12 hp.  The bigger one is giving up about 5hp.  I need a gain to make this worth while.  I am going to try the bigger pipes next 1-1/2 & 1-3/4 and possibly even 2".

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Final wrap up day!

Its done!

I drilled the main jet from the previous time .070 to .082.  I also opened up the idle jet from .028 to .033.  I tried one last time on the split exhaust set up and just could not find the hp, down about 5hp.  Ended up trying different pipe sizes from my 2-1/8, 2-1/4 and 2-1/2 on the single exhaust, did find a couple hp without the muffler go figure.

Any guesses what made the most hp?

Last weekend I straightened and pulled the fenders, this was a nicer set I traded.  Less rust.  Sorry no pics, I used the same method as covered in my previous thread linked in post one.

 

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Looks like a nice sleeper, I'm sure you will enjoy it pulling next year.

I would think the stock manifold was probably best, unless you went to header type of setup with equal lengths on all of the cylinders. Just curious, I don't ever remember seeing something like that on a tractor, do they actually use them?

Nice job.

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12 hours ago, Duntongw said:

Looks like a nice sleeper, I'm sure you will enjoy it pulling next year.

I would think the stock manifold was probably best, unless you went to header type of setup with equal lengths on all of the cylinders. Just curious, I don't ever remember seeing something like that on a tractor, do they actually use them?

Nice job.

No I modified that manifold by milling the top flat and putting a hole in that location.  The lower plate has a divider that splits the manifold, based on the firing order you are always firing back and forth.  I guess the issue was to transition from a log to pipe and to pick up or maintain velocity in this transition.  This is a pic of a split Stovebolt manifold, I know they do the same with Chrysler.  I was trying to find improvement while keeping the stock manifolds for the farm class.  A lot of time and some wasted material for nothing but, seeing is believing.

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Here is the difference between the 3 single exhaust pipes my original is slightly smaller then 2-1/4.  This proves the theory bigger is not always better.

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  • 8 months later...

Ready for the local fair tomorrow.  Can't win as dyno will not be legal I would settle for second or third though...still debating on weights between the center and rear, track conditions help decide that.  I expect to not have to have to TA it in 1st and even thought about running 2nd low.  Will see how it all goes tomorrow in the 9K farm class at the Armada Fair at 12pm.

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Well not what I had planned for, ran 1st high sat right at 1800rpm all way down the track and then about the 240' mark front went up a little then higher, then higher, lost my hitch height, spun out with the front end in the air I'm guessing 15-1600rpm. Next year I will leave the back bracket at home, had 450lbs off the 3pt quick hitch.  Sorry no video yet but here is a screen shot of how high it went.  On the bright side had no problem spinning out in high 1st.

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My wife took a partial video track side, she missed the beginning.

Youtube

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Thank you!

Possible I think the split manifold was a failure due to transitions from the actual manifold to the mock up pipe.  Did some testing the past on a truck manifolds on the previous 263 using the stock 656 carb it did not like the manifolds either.

One thing I have noticed is it is very fuel efficient.  It does more work with less fuel as compared to the 263.  Alot I attribute to the changes I made which translates to off the governor when light loading.

I have struggled with oil with this engine the 10W30 did not seem to work.  I had alot of oil residue in the chambers 1-2-5-6.  I expected the Nappier second ring with an 3mm oil to have superior oil control, I don't expect oil is coming from the valve guides.  It shows no signs of burning oil while running, I just discovered this in a routine check.  I have switched to 30W and have yet to see if this curred it.  My machinist thinks it could be a reaction with the ethanol fuel.  I think he has a pretty solid theory since 3-4 did not have problem and I expect better atomization with these cylinders.

It does run dang good though!

Scott

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