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Keith 1066

How turn more rpms on a 1066

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Timing is fine that should be at 18 degrees all you have to do is back out the high idle screw

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You adjust the high idle screw. Be aware that high rpms under high load reduce the lifespan of heavy duty diesel engines. Thx-Ace

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Later 1066's were rated at 2600 rpm full load, and those high idle about 2850 from the factory. If you have an early tractor that is rated at 2400, then high idle may only be about 2650. Make sure the throttle lever on outside of the pump isn't broken, losing you some travel, or just make sure the linkage is adjusted right. Many times they are off a spline on the governor shaft. As said above, if needed to raise it, the high idle screw is the small acorn nut on back/bottom of governor housing, takes a thin 7/16" box wrench, and a pocket screwdriver. Back out to increase, a turn at a time or so, double checking the external lever still moves as screw is turned. On a low rpm one, you may run out of screw, and the inside lever will just hit the casting inside, and screw no longer is touching it. 

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7 hours ago, Keith 1066 said:

I would like to bump my rpms up on my tractor to 2850 do I have to change the timing any to do that

Wow really? you want rods punching daylight out the side ? 

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2849 at UNL tractor test lab.  2850 is just fine.

9BBB98A6-A8DA-4318-8579-3AFCA2CDA3F7.jpeg

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22 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

Wow really? you want rods punching daylight out the side ? 

There's not a 10 in the country around here that's not been turned up. That ain't gonna hurt it. 

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25 minutes ago, 1466fan said:

There's not a 10 in the country around here that's not been turned up. That ain't gonna hurt it. 

I never turned RPM's up only the fuel delivery setting if I felt I needed more HP

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Put a steel flywheel and clutch in it and it will spin faster than you'd believe :)  Ask me how I know

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1066 we had ran 2950 WOT...ran it that way for years and never had a engine problem.  previous owner had set it that way because he used to use it for tractor pulling. had 20.8's on rims that had been widened out to 22"

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I’m pretty sure ours will spin to 2800+ with just 2 turns of the fuel screw, but I don’t really  run them there, unless I hit a bump while reaching for the throttle.  

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Steel flwheel and good clutch and Ive had one of mine north of 6000 rpm    My alky turns as high as 8200 rpm

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wheres thesd everything he has runs 3000 min i bet 

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With higher rpms it's important to balance the engine. Also a balanced engine is more fuel efficient.

anything over 2200 rpms I would want the engine professionally balanced.

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On 4/28/2020 at 8:04 PM, Brandin said:

Can you turn a 436dt that hard too?  

The 436 in our 1440 combine ran 2800 rpm day in and day out from the time we bought it till we sold it 20 + years later. It's still going strong at it's new home to this day.

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When they went to the higher RPM on the 400 series, engine life decreased.  You can get just as much hp out of it reworking the pump but keeping the RPM's lower.  Engine will last longer.  All depends on what you are trying to accomplish.  Higher RPM burns more fuel too it seems.  But if the only goal is 300', it doesn't really matter what you do. 

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On 4/30/2020 at 5:16 PM, J-Mech said:

When they went to the higher RPM on the 400 series, engine life decreased.  You can get just as much hp out of it reworking the pump but keeping the RPM's lower.  Engine will last longer.  All depends on what you are trying to accomplish.  Higher RPM burns more fuel too it seems.  But if the only goal is 300', it doesn't really matter what you do. 

like they say.........you gotta pay to go faster - i hv never seen higher RPMs than designed result in increased engine life regardless of the motor - of course small increase possibly nominal in life - too many logical/scientific principals of energy/force/gravity/friction etc....that come into play u dont need to be a harvard scholar to know where you are headed 

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  • case and point 400 LPG - rated at 1450 rpms
  • WOT High Idle 1950
  • WOT under load it bellowed at 1850 to 1900 
  • Ran great for 25 yrs then started losing water............cracked block between two cylinders 
  • Removed head, had it rebuilt/machined/new valves ( sodium ) 
  • Had block welded up, machined/bored, new pistons/rings etc....
  • was running at same rpms when the tornado hit it 10 yrs later - totaled it, replaced with 560D - 400 had more heart 

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