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Shadetreemechanic

H isn’t showing a charge

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For some reason my Farmall H is not showing a charge but my alternator came back good when I had it tested. I have no clue to fathom an idea of what is wrong. When I pull the negative cable off the battery the tractor dies. On my other tractor the engine keeps going when the negative cable is removed. The only difference I can really think of is the H is running on a Delco remy 10dn high output alternator, the other tractor (Farmall 560) is running on a delco remy 12si. The 10dn is using the original external regulator from the generator. The 560 is using an internally regulator going straight to the amp meter to the battery. On a side note how do I include pictures

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So, the battery doesn't charge? 

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Are both tractors distributors or is one a magneto ? 

When running follow the juice back with a test light or multi meter and see if the hot post is connected to the battery

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A Farmall H with a alternator with a regulator box, early updates, OK I had one, changed to one wire alternator very dependable, not much room under the hood for one. Two years ago I put a one wire in my Super Farmall H  😲  🙂  😎

The H with a magneto I took the gen off and charge the battey  once and a while. 

pictures, go down to ( choose files ) it will open up a new window to choose, go to your photo's, click on your picture, submit open.

 

100_1461.JPG

100_1595.JPG

100_1597.JPG

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wow a horn loader with a hydraulic bucket!! I will see your pile of weights and raise them with my piles of weights.

  • Haha 1

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10 hours ago, Shadetreemechanic said:

For some reason my Farmall H is not showing a charge but my alternator came back good when I had it tested. I have no clue to fathom an idea of what is wrong. When I pull the negative cable off the battery the tractor dies. On my other tractor the engine keeps going when the negative cable is removed. The only difference I can really think of is the H is running on a Delco remy 10dn high output alternator, the other tractor (Farmall 560) is running on a delco remy 12si. The 10dn is using the original external regulator from the generator. The 560 is using an internally regulator going straight to the amp meter to the battery. On a side note how do I include pictures

A 10DN alternator will not work with with the original generator regulator. The generator sends voltage out through the F terminal where the regulator controls the generator output by grounding the field current. The 10DN regulator work by providing voltage to the F terminal where it is grounded internally in the alternator.

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3 hours ago, superman said:

A Farmall H with a alternator with a regulator box, early updates, OK I had one, changed to one wire alternator very dependable, not much room under the hood for one. Two years ago I put a one wire in my Super Farmall H  😲  🙂  😎

The H with a magneto I took the gen off and charge the battey  once and a while. 

pictures, go down to ( choose files ) it will open up a new window to choose, go to your photo's, click on your picture, submit open.

 

100_1461.JPG

100_1595.JPG

100_1597.JPG

Both tractors run on distributors currently. The Farmall H sat for 6 to 7 months before I got it going here recently. Before the amp meter showed a charge from the alternator. I took a brass brush to all the connections I could think of, from the amp meter itself to the regulator. I did this same method before on my 560. It just started throwing a fit here a few days ago with the alternator. Also the wiring on the 560 is a mystery the previous owner did there own wiring job on it. Thank you for all the replies and helpful information. 

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45 minutes ago, Shadetreemechanic said:

Both tractors run on distributors currently. The Farmall H sat for 6 to 7 months before I got it going here recently.

Probably why it sat, battery was always dead. Check the battery and make sure it holds charge. A regulator for a 10DN alternator is $20.00, get one and install it and assuming the rest of the wiring (Which isn't much on an H) is ok it should work.

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1 hour ago, Shadetreemechanic said:

The Farmall H sat for 6 to 7 months before I got it going here recently. Before the amp meter showed a charge from the alternator.

Again, is it just not showing charge, or is it actually not charging??  It sounds to me like you are assuming it isn't charging because the gauge says it isn't.  Have you verified it is not charging? 

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1 hour ago, TomH said:

Probably why it sat, battery was always dead. Check the battery and make sure it holds charge. A regulator for a 10DN alternator is $20.00, get one and install it and assuming the rest of the wiring (Which isn't much on an H) is ok it should work.

I’m not trying to correct you but before the tractor sat the battery was holding a charge. When I got it going again I have a brand new bomgaars battery in it currently. Would the tractor start and run if the regulator had gone bad? Also no i have not checked exactly to see if it is not charging. I’m going off the reasoning that when I pulled the negative ground cable from the battery it ceased to run after that.

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With a new battery it will start and run until the battery dies and doesn't have power for the distributor any more. Fire it up and check at the battery terminals with a voltmeter or multi meter on DC and check; it should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts if its charging. Honestly if it is trying to run an externally regulated alternator with the old regulator I would just spend the $40 to $50 on a gm internally regulated alternator that the mount is already there for and be done with it.

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8 minutes ago, Shadetreemechanic said:

I’m not trying to correct you but before the tractor sat the battery was holding a charge. When I got it going again I have a brand new bomgaars battery in it currently. Would the tractor start and run if the regulator had gone bad? Also no i have not checked exactly to see if it is not charging. I’m going off the reasoning that when I pulled the negative ground cable from the battery it ceased to run after that.

So.....If you haven't checked to see if its actually charging then as JMECH says above you need to do that. See if the alternator is putting out voltage. I'm pretty sure ,at least I think that if you disconnect the negative battery wire and the engine dies then the alternator has no output to power the ignition. Or the battery is stone dead which you say is not the case. To guess I would say that there is an open circuit between the alternator and the battery likely the original generator regulator.  As long as the battery is good and the wiring is complete it should run until the battery becomes weak enough to no longer be able to supply enough power to the ignition. 

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1 hour ago, TomH said:

So.....If you haven't checked to see if its actually charging then as JMECH says above you need to do that. See if the alternator is putting out voltage. I'm pretty sure ,at least I think that if you disconnect the negative battery wire and the engine dies then the alternator has no output to power the ignition. Or the battery is stone dead which you say is not the case. To guess I would say that there is an open circuit between the alternator and the battery likely the original generator regulator.  As long as the battery is good and the wiring is complete it should run until the battery becomes weak enough to no longer be able to supply enough power to the ignition. 

I tested it and the battery showed it wasn’t draining so the alternator is good the amp meter is bad. Unfortunately I have another question to ask you all. The steering box on my 560 went out do you guys know of anywhere (like a salvage yard) near southwest Iowa where I could get a entire steering box?

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Teubel Salvage,  Bloomfield IA

(641)722-3844

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3 hours ago, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

Teubel Salvage,  Bloomfield IA

(641)722-3844

Thank you I’ll look into it, 

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4 hours ago, Shadetreemechanic said:

The steering box on my 560 went out

So, rebuild it.

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2 hours ago, J-Mech said:

So, rebuild it.

I don’t have the skills required to get the timing correct in the box. Otherwise yes, I would rebuild it myself instead of spending money on extra parts.

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Just now, Shadetreemechanic said:

I don’t have the skills required to get the timing correct in the box. Otherwise yes, I would rebuild it myself instead of spending money on extra parts.

Just follow the manual.  Buying used will only likely end up with something no better than what you have. 

There are people you can pay to do these things also.  Don't assume it is "too expensive".  Lots of independent places in the world who need work right now. You might get a good deal. 

I have no idea what you mean by "failed".  I only know that as a mechanic it always frustrates me when people assume buying used is a cheaper course of action. Sometimes it is.  Most times it is not. Often times it leads to the same issue, just at a later date. 

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On 4/24/2020 at 9:59 PM, J-Mech said:

Just follow the manual.  Buying used will only likely end up with something no better than what you have. 

There are people you can pay to do these things also.  Don't assume it is "too expensive".  Lots of independent places in the world who need work right now. You might get a good deal. 

I have no idea what you mean by "failed".  I only know that as a mechanic it always frustrates me when people assume buying used is a cheaper course of action. Sometimes it is.  Most times it is not. Often times it leads to the same issue, just at a later date. 

I’m curious, I talked to a mechanic and they said the timing is a pain if you don’t know what you’re doing. Do you know what timing there is in a steering box? The diagram from the manual says there is a worm gear and. a spjndle in the box. That’s all I can figure to be timed. 

 

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You need to get a steering manual.

Not that difficult.

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14 hours ago, Shadetreemechanic said:

I’m curious, I talked to a mechanic and they said the timing is a pain if you don’t know what you’re doing. Do you know what timing there is in a steering box? The diagram from the manual says there is a worm gear and. a spjndle in the box. That’s all I can figure to be timed. 

 

I may be missing something, but there doesn't look like there's anything to time. Looks like there's a worm and sector gear and that's pretty much it. What, exactly is wrong with yours? Might be an easy fix. Tear into it and find out. 

For your info, here's a link to the IH parts catalog for the 560's steering: https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr64286ag53963 . Look at the drawings and you'll see that there isn't much to the steering gear.

Mac

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9 hours ago, MacAR said:

I may be missing something, but there doesn't look like there's anything to time. Looks like there's a worm and sector gear and that's pretty much it. What, exactly is wrong with yours? Might be an easy fix. Tear into it and find out. 

For your info, here's a link to the IH parts catalog for the 560's steering: https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr64286ag53963 . Look at the drawings and you'll see that there isn't much to the steering gear.

Mac

That’s what I’m seeing there is little to nothing to time. I don’t know whether this tech was trying to drum up business or what. But he had said that there were “timing marks”  that had to be put in time, also that if you didn’t know what you were looking for you could mess up the steering box. Thank you for the information and links 

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9 hours ago, Shadetreemechanic said:

That’s what I’m seeing there is little to nothing to time. I don’t know whether this tech was trying to drum up business or what. But he had said that there were “timing marks”  that had to be put in time, also that if you didn’t know what you were looking for you could mess up the steering box. Thank you for the information and links 

I don't believe  you said power or manual.

Get the steering manual as there is a lot of parts in there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Timing is the least of your worries.

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On 4/24/2020 at 9:59 PM, J-Mech said:

Just follow the manual.  Buying used will only likely end up with something no better than what you have. 

There are people you can pay to do these things also.  Don't assume it is "too expensive".  Lots of independent places in the world who need work right now. You might get a good deal. 

I have no idea what you mean by "failed".  I only know that as a mechanic it always frustrates me when people assume buying used is a cheaper course of action. Sometimes it is.  Most times it is not. Often times it leads to the same issue, just at a later date. 

Turns out the fix was tightening the set screws on the knuckle near the steering box. Thanks for the info from all of you. 

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