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Does anybody have the number for reamer it takes to ream the front axle wishbone for steering cylinder anchor pin? Looks like Hy-Cap & Ag Parts have them available for rent, would just as soon buy one and be done with it. 

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No what your looking for but my recent experience with one that was so wore your couldn't use road gear!

I just fixed another one up on a 986, I bought a $85.00 Boring head for the mill and cut the wish bone out to true up a nice bore and built a new pin. The upper hole in the axel was tight yet the bottom hole was egg shaped, a reamer would have been nice there... I didn't end up with the correct size reamer so I just took my time and opened it up with a barrel bit on a die grinder.

Only took a couple hours once I had the stuff and its tighter than its been for 8k hours.. and the shape this tractor is in it wont make it another 8.

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I'm not sure of the size but we've gotten all of our taper reamers at MSC Industrial Supply. The ones we get are left hand flute with right hand cut and tapered. Definitely want to use reaming fluid or something made for lubing them. They can last a long time if you use them correctly and have luck . 

We get them in 1/2" or 3/4" shank to run with our "mankiller" Milwaukee 3/4" drill 

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7 hours ago, CIHTECH said:

Does anybody have the number for reamer it takes to ream the front axle wishbone for steering cylinder anchor pin? Looks like Hy-Cap & Ag Parts have them available for rent, would just as soon buy one and be done with it. 

Ag parts will sell it I think

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My son used one of those rental reamers from a local guy that sell parts. I believe he had a $1,000 deposit on the reamer.We were  not impressed with how it cut. No way could you cut anything with hand power. We were told to put a drill on it. It took a lot of pressure and a lot of cutting fluid and a lot longer time than expected, but did get it done and fit nicely. I would probably just buy a reamer for the next one.

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OTC # 03-539

or

Standard Tool Company 6-41-391

1" x 1-¼" x 1-½ T.P.F. is what it says on my tool.

Hope this helps.

Travis

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16 minutes ago, Sparky said:

OTC # 03-539

or

Standard Tool Company 6-41-391

1" x 1-¼" x 1-½ T.P.F. is what it says on my tool.

Hope this helps.

Travis

That's what it says on mine too.

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Mine is XKUT #5925.  Parked the tractor with one side of the front axle on the barn hill and went at it.  The reamer caught in the hole at one point and spun the drill into the tractor's frame and broke the Milwaukee Magnum drill in two...  Finished it out with my grandfather's old Oster drill.  The hole turned out great.

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Might sound stupid/crazy but I used a 1/2 inch cordless impact instead of a drill, didn't use any pressure just the weight of the tool and it worked great. I should add that I borrowed the reamer from a dealer and they had a nut welded to the reamer so they could use a 3/4 inch rachet to turn it.

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Would that be the reamer I’d use to taper the wishbone hole on my old style 1066’s that have the square block on the end of the cylinder, if I everbwanted to go to the tie-rod style end? Does that end even fit onto the cylinder rod, or would I need to change that out as well? We have 5 of these, none are worn, so I haven’t ever looked into it.

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When you change from the original block on the cylinder rod end to the ball joint style the cylinder rod is the same but the cylinder barrel has the trunnions mounted in a different location. If you don't change the barrel the tractor will not steer all the way in one direction.

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13 hours ago, stronger800 said:

Would that be the reamer I’d use to taper the wishbone hole on my old style 1066’s that have the square block on the end of the cylinder, if I everbwanted to go to the tie-rod style end? Does that end even fit onto the cylinder rod, or would I need to change that out as well? We have 5 of these, none are worn, so I haven’t ever looked into it.

Theres a tapered pin for use with the square block on a 66 series. Bottom half is tapered top is straight to fkt the block. 

If you go to the tie rod 86 series style, you have to change the cylinder also as noted above. The trunions are located in a different spot.

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We rented out the reamer along with a VERY large drill. I used to stock the adapter pin from A & I. P/N 223314. Looks like about 60.00 and they have them.

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5 hours ago, Dan Robinson said:

Theres a tapered pin for use with the square block on a 66 series. Bottom half is tapered top is straight to fkt the block. 

If you go to the tie rod 86 series style, you have to change the cylinder also as noted above. The trunions are located in a different spot.

I’ve changed all 4 of my 66 series over to 86 series 

why would you go half way? Those square blocks are prone to failure 

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I have the reamer on the way from H-Cap. Using the numbers given I wasn't able to locate anything. After I had it ordered I checked out the XKUT #5952, next time I need one I will just purchase from them. 

Thanks to all who gave info............

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1 hour ago, dumbfarmer said:

I’ve changed all 4 of my 66 series over to 86 series 

why would you go half way? Those square blocks are prone to failure 

The steel chunk fails? What’s it do? Knocking on wood. 

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2 hours ago, dumbfarmer said:

I’ve changed all 4 of my 66 series over to 86 series 

why would you go half way? Those square blocks are prone to failure 

Ill agree to disagree. Prone to failure? Yes the pin will wear and the block will wear. Put a new one in and go.

A quick online search showed you could get the tapered pin and block for about $100. And a 86 steering cylinder for around $300. 

If the 66 cylinder has had the trunions wore so much that it wont hold a new bushing, yes youre probably money ahead to convert to a 86 style. But if theres nothing wrong with the original cylinder, theres no use in wasting money in unneeded parts 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/24/2020 at 7:52 PM, Dan Robinson said:

Ill agree to disagree. Prone to failure? Yes the pin will wear and the block will wear. Put a new one in and go.

A quick online search showed you could get the tapered pin and block for about $100. And a 86 steering cylinder for around $300. 

If the 66 cylinder has had the trunions wore so much that it wont hold a new bushing, yes youre probably money ahead to convert to a 86 style. But if theres nothing wrong with the original cylinder, theres no use in wasting money in unneeded parts 

I’ve had it more than once the block pulled off the end of the cylinder 

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7 hours ago, dumbfarmer said:

I’ve had it more than once the block pulled off the end of the cylinder 

What fails on the 66 setup that the 86 is that much different?

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5 hours ago, Super A_sepa said:

What fails on the 66 setup that the 86 is that much different?

The threads wear on the end of the cylinder rod or the block or both then it comes off.  Thankfully both times happened in the field and not going down the road.  The tire rod end on the 86 series style threads on and then a clamp clamps it tight on the threads so it never comes loose 

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