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706 Neutral Safety Switch


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I’m not familiar with a 706 but on an 806 and up, what they have is a clutch pedal switch, that is located  under the platform,  a simple two wire push button switch and depressing the clutch pulls a lever forward, depressing the button on the switch so that it makes continuity and let’s power pass through. This switch is simply inline between the key,  and the starter button., that or I’m off tonight ....and it’s inline After the button, between the button and the starter solenoid. 

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1 hour ago, stronger800 said:

I’m not familiar with a 706 but on an 806 and up, what they have is a clutch pedal switch, that is located  under the platform,  a simple two wire push button switch and depressing the clutch pulls a lever forward, depressing the button on the switch so that it makes continuity and let’s power pass through. This switch is simply inline between the key,  and the starter button., that or I’m off tonight ....and it’s inline After the button, between the button and the starter solenoid. 

The little lever is what I'm asking about. I have the small pin on the clutch arm and the switch assembly, but I don't see anything in the CIH parts list to denote a lever like you refer to. The tractor accidentally started in reverse today and I'd like to get the switch working properly.

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It is just a simple "L" shaped piece of steel.  Easy to fabricate one.  I will see if I can find a picture....

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No neutral switch on the shifter on anything before the last half ish of the 86's but they would have all had the clutch switch. And that switch sensed if the tractor was in park, it still had the clutch switch too.

Having it wont prevent it from starting in gear though, will just make it that you have to have the clutch pushed in to start which is a good habit anyhow. 

I might have a picture of the L bracket too

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if you still need pix/measurements i can get that - i have one sitting in the barn easily captured - i can get some pix after online church this morn

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1 hour ago, searcyfarms said:

if you still need pix/measurements i can get that - i have one sitting in the barn easily captured - i can get some pix after online church this morn

Yes please. 

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22 minutes ago, 7and8and1456 said:

Here is a picture that I made some time ago for another topic discussion here on RedPower.

008 (Large) (2).JPG

That’s exactly what I was looking for. Looks like they’re still available but I’m not spending $45 for something I can make for free. 
 

If someone has one laying around, can you tell me how long from the hole to the flat on the other side?

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well im no artist and i dont have autocad so i use farmercad ( pen/paper ) and wing it, usually works out pretty good ( most of the time ) 😲

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Is the mounting bracket still there? I have a 1964 model 706 and as far as I can tell it never had a switch there. No wires for it or the bracket. Not a small pin on the clutch pin either.

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On 4/18/2020 at 7:19 PM, Indy Farmer said:

Anyone have a picture of a working neutral safety switch assembly on a 706?

Sorry I didn’t see this yesterday.  I almost posted the other day the same exact question cause I could find part #.
384046R1

I saw the pic 7and8and1456 from a few years ago and thought about making one...bought one used yesterday from salvage in Ohio but $25.  Wish I checked RPF yesterday!
 

https://www.batescorp.com/electrical/product-url-12550.html - like you said $$.

9598BBB5-5600-4D1F-9DCD-F5FB71823426.jpeg

61BBB30A-E1EF-4875-B0A9-857030D8C237.jpeg

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Exactly, and if I called our semi local parts yard, that use to be primarily IH back in the day,  they would tell me they didn't know if they had any, but that they doubted it, and I could probably come look if I wanted to.   I've had much better luck buying small parts off of members here. 

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Honestly, I wouldn't duplicate that anyway.  I never liked that setup.  Those push pin switches were a problem to keep adjusted and working, and I've had wiring get pinched in between.

IMO, using a standard off-the-shelf coil spring limit switch ( https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Wobble-Stick-12T962?searchBar=true&searchQuery=12t962 ) to feel the clutch throw would work better overall.  It would require figuring out how to mount it though. 

Just a suggestion.

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The wires in the above pic are not routed as they were meant to be. My switches all still work, 45ish years after they were built, I like them. Watch....I’ll have one go bad tomorrow.  

That’s not to say I haven’t stuck a jumper wire or a fence staple in one before to rule a bad switch out, or to make things happen.

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One of the biggest problems with those switches is adjusting them too tight .  The internal contact is spring loaded and no need to mash the switch down tight .  Also, a bit of lube (name of it escapes me at the moment) on those electrical contacts as they are more of a problem than the switch it's self. 

Another thing I always preached to the new comers was that when he got done working on the tractor it should look like it was never taken apart as far as the wiring , hydraulic lines etc.     I know they are old now and things happen but I just never liked to see it where some one made shortcuts.   Have seen a lot of 06 and 56 series where the power steering lines were cut off and spliced so they  didn't have to take a few more parts off.  

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31 minutes ago, pete23 said:

Another thing I always preached to the new comers was that when he got done working on the tractor it should look like it was never taken apart as far as the wiring , hydraulic lines etc.     I know they are old now and things happen but I just never liked to see it where some one made shortcuts.   Have seen a lot of 06 and 56 series where the power steering lines were cut off and spliced so they  didn't have to take a few more parts off.  

Couldn't agree more!  That's how I trained my guys too.  Yep... seen a lot of short cuts done I didn't like.  Own a pickup right now with a big ol hole in the bed because someone needed to change the fuel pump.  Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

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