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MIsparky

7140 leaking hyd fluid into clutch

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This winter I noticed a hydraulic oil leak coming from my mfwd driveshaft area and assumed it was the driveshaft seal.  I replaced that and the leak continued from around the back side of the bearing carrier.  I pulled the plug from the clutch housing and got about a gallon and a half of hyd oil out.  As I understand it I have 3 leak possibilities. the first two are the front and back orings on the MFWD shaft tube and the trans input shaft seal.  My question is on the o-rings on the shaft tube.  Is it possible to service these without splitting the tractor?  I'm getting conflicting reports, Most say I have to split, a few others say i can access the front oring by pulling the front driveshaft seal,  pulling both sets of bearings and then I can access that oring.  And for the back oring I've read that I can access it by removing the side hyd oil screen assembly and working through there.   Has anyone tried this?  

Screenshot_20200409-181246_Case IH_3.jpg

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Not possible, front bearing carrier can NOT be removed until tractor is split. Make sure you drain transmission before splitting, if the bearing carrier comes forward with flywheel housing it will dump the trans oil. 

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Since it looks like I'm splitting it what is the likelihood that I damaged the clutch being submerged in oil?  I assume its the right time to do the rear main and the trans input shaft seal while I'm there?  6200 hrs on the tractor.  

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There is no clutch, only a torsinal damper. No need in replacing unless a visual inspection of spring center shows it needs to be replaced. Likely you will need to replace it if it hasn't been with that amount of hours. Take a close look at the springs for wear. The rear main seal of engine I would certainly replace, if no sign of a leak at rear main carrier I would remove the screws one at a time an get them clean & dry as well as the threaded hole. Apply a drop of blue (Loc-tite) on the screws and torque to (84 in. lbs) Have split quite a few Magnums for rear main seal carrier screws coming loose. As far as the transmission shaft input seal if it shows no sign of leaking I would just let it be. 

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Depends on how many hours I will always change the torsional dampener if I have it split. They can let you sit if they self destruct. We have lost 3 of them in the last 20 years. Most had 6500-10000 hours when they went

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29 minutes ago, CIHTECH said:

There is no clutch, only a torsinal damper. No need in replacing unless a visual inspection of spring center shows it needs to be replaced. Likely you will need to replace it if it hasn't been with that amount of hours. Take a close look at the springs for wear. The rear main seal of engine I would certainly replace, if no sign of a leak at rear main carrier I would remove the screws one at a time an get them clean & dry as well as the threaded hole. Apply a drop of blue (Loc-tite) on the screws and torque to (84 in. lbs) Have split quite a few Magnums for rear main seal carrier screws coming loose. As far as the transmission shaft input seal if it shows no sign of leaking I would just let it be. 

Exactly what he says. I would check the rear main seal very well. From experience they can spin in housing

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I drained out 5 gal of used engine oil from the center of a 7120 a couple months ago.

The crimp had let loose on the rear main seal. It got a new aluminum carrier, plus seal with wear ring. And also a new trans input shaft seal. 

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