Jump to content

Recommended Posts

2 questions actually. First how's the best way to get the bearing off the inner axle shaft so I can replace the seal? And second how's the best way to get the tie rod ends out of the spindle? They ain't givin up like tie rod ends on a 2wd axle. Will some heat hurt anything?

20200412_174749.jpg

20200412_174158.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hit the spindle on the flat spot next to the ball joints with a big hammer. Will take several swings but that’s how I pop them loose on my peterbilt.  Might need to pry them apart from the spindle a little while hitting them but that always works for me on bigger ball joints

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Beat the crap out of it, sorry.  I haven't had any other luck,  i don't think inused hest for fear of tweeking it.  Jack under cast then slammmmmm.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

 To remove the tie rod joint I drew the red arrow to strike a few sharp blows directly to the side of the plate it bolts to like the blue arrows illustrate . Best success for us involved this type of removal

IMG_20200412_235506.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, ole 815 said:

Yep, thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, MarkG said:

Love your jack stand. What is that out of?

Got two of them under it. They're out of Ingersoll Rand ntural gas compressor engines. Theyre hard to move but handy to have around. Makes a nice anvil too.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thinking after matching the videos I probably need a bigger pry bar to put some pressure on the joints.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Had to take a tie rod end out of one of the knuckles on one of my MFD MXs.  Didn’t want to bugger up the end as it was fairly new and they are $$$.  Bought an industrial tie rod end tool for trucks, cranked it as tight as I dared, heated the pitman arm with a small plumber size torch carefully, and hit on the tool with a 3 lb sledge.  Took a number of tries and heat cycles but it came apart with no damage.  Paid for the tie rod tool in one use.  

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, bitty said:

 To remove the tie rod joint I drew the red arrow to strike a few sharp blows directly to the side of the plate it bolts to like the blue arrows illustrate . Best success for us involved this type of removal

IMG_20200412_235506.jpg

x2 GET A BIGGER HAMMER AND FULL BLOOD SWING TO BEAT THE HEEL OUT OF IT.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to bring everyone up to speed. Thanks for the info. Watched the videos 815 posted. Ironic we had a bolt twist off too. I think red loctite is too much overkill for a 3/8 bolt. It was even a grade 8. But with some heat from a torch and welding a nut on twisted bolt it came right out after 3 tries. Them U jount crosses are a SOB. The caps wont come out of the yolks when you press them apart like an ordinary U joint. Got to get them close and then clamp them in a vise and finish pulling them the rest of the way with a prybar.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...