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12 minutes ago, Atilathehun99 said:

These tractor powered buzz saws should be relegated to demonstrations at shows.

I've cut wood for 50+ years w/ a chainsaw and am hard pressed to recall more than a couple significant kickbacks from trimming a 1/4-inch twig to a 60+-inch log.  None even close to causing an injury.

And IMHO anyone that DOES choose to use a buzz that doesn't have a blade guard is just asking for calamity.

Hey Atila,

Go back to about post 2 and look at mine.................

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Cant help ya much with the words but I have one of those.  

A hand held tach on the shaft is what I always used to set speed. ---My 40" sawmill blade was hammered for 585 and 540 tractor had to have the gov stepped up a bit to run it. As for cutting small

Yep, it is all about common sense. It aint safe to drive either but we all do it.

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Wow, seems pretty dumb to use a chainsaw to cut slab wood, so I am on the other side of the fence.  Not a fan of belt power though, but I liked our PTO woodsman buzz saw well, prefered to use it to a chainsaw.  

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1 hour ago, TP from Central PA said:

Wow, seems pretty dumb to use a chainsaw to cut slab wood, so I am on the other side of the fence.  Not a fan of belt power though, but I liked our PTO woodsman buzz saw well, prefered to use it to a chainsaw.  

Does a PTO driven saw have a slip clutch or anything of that type? If you somehow happened to jam our belt driven one, it would either slip the belt or throw the belt. Just curious, I've never been around a PTO driven one. 

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A neighbor of mine that was an engineer/inventor has a buzz saw he built. It has a 30" blade, is mounted on a small 2 wheel trailer that's low to the ground. It's powered by a power unit. What kind you ask? A Wisconsin? Nope. A 12 HP Briggs, single cylinder. He it set up with a multiple V belt pulley on it, with an over center tensioner type lever that would tension up the belt and turn the blade. It would cut wood just as well as any H or M with a belted buzz saw. HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE you ask? On the opposite end of the shaft the blade was mounted on, he had a flywheel that probably weighs 300 pounds. Takes a bit to get it all turning, but once it does, it really cuts.

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57 minutes ago, RBootsMI said:

Does a PTO driven saw have a slip clutch or anything of that type? If you somehow happened to jam our belt driven one, it would either slip the belt or throw the belt. Just curious, I've never been around a PTO driven one. 

I haven't looked at it in years, but the PTO goes into a right angle gearbox which on the other side has a double "B" v-belt pulley, which drives another pulley on the arbor shaft.  The belt isn't super tight, never had an issue with jamming it up in all the years we ran it so I can't say. 

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3 hours ago, TP from Central PA said:

Wow, seems pretty dumb to use a chainsaw to cut slab wood, so I am on the other side of the fence.  Not a fan of belt power though, but I liked our PTO woodsman buzz saw well, prefered to use it to a chainsaw.  

Along with the Sears saw there was a used Woodsman I really considered as well on Craigslist. Would have been more convenient, but for a $1000 price difference I opted for the Sears.

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11 hours ago, WyattFarmall said:

Along with the Sears saw there was a used Woodsman I really considered as well on Craigslist. Would have been more convenient, but for a $1000 price difference I opted for the Sears.

Yeah, they aren't cheap.............My grandfather bought it new, and my brother paid almost new price for it at his sale, I thought he was nuts but we spent a ton of time behind it so he wanted it for that reason I think.  Think he used it twice since then and that has been 15 years ago now.  We used it alot while my grandfather had it, used it on a tractor here or there depending on what wood lot we were cutting.

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Just thinking about the economics. I have most everything to make a wood splitter to be 3ph mounted and tractor PTO hydraulic powered but I stumbled into an almost new trailer type for cheap money that had been run without oil and seized. The repair was super cheap and I got thinking that the little Subaru Robin engine uses way less fuel than any tractor and doesn't tie a machine up. It certainly was the cheaper/better way to go.

I think the same goes for chainsaw v tractor powered saw. No matter what, the chainsaw will use less fuel and even with the occasional chain sharpen and bar oil it will be more economical.

I used a back hoe with a thumb to hold the log and sliced it up with a chainsaw, then had my kids split it. It was great to watch brother and sister work together! Funny how it seemed my daughter did more of the lifting.

The only time I ever experienced any saw kickback was cutting little stuff on the ground but it was controllable, even so I used chaps and helmet. 

I'm in the "for demonstration at tractor show" camp.

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12 hours ago, WyattFarmall said:

Along with the Sears saw there was a used Woodsman I really considered as well on Craigslist. Would have been more convenient, but for a $1000 price difference I opted for the Sears.

As others said it needs blade guard. Yours is missing.

The original was not much but way better than none.

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15 minutes ago, kevinj said:

As others said it needs blade guard. Yours is missing.

The original was not much but way better than none.

I was thinking about cutting some sheet metal and tack welding it together to form a guard. Wouldn’t be original and wouldn’t be pretty but it would be safer.

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2 hours ago, WyattFarmall said:

I was thinking about cutting some sheet metal and tack welding it together to form a guard. Wouldn’t be original and wouldn’t be pretty but it would be safer.

The things had like bicycle fender for a guard.

I made my guard to cover a lot of the blade.

Not my saw you get the idea.

Screenshot_2020-04-13 Sears Roebuck Buzz saw(1).jpg

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13 minutes ago, kevinj said:

I made my guard to cover a lot of the blade.

Very nice work!

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So what’re these things worth. I have a nice one that’s fabricated to bolt on the front of a H.  If they’re worth more over a thousand like said above I’ll definitely Get rid of it!

 

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On 4/16/2020 at 5:54 PM, Bdse25 said:

So what’re these things worth. I have a nice one that’s fabricated to bolt on the front of a H.  If they’re worth more over a thousand like said above I’ll definitely Get rid of it!

 

The $1000 was for a brand new one that was slightly used, I paid $150 for my belt driven saw. I wouldn’t expect more than $300 out of one.

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Getting back to the main question of this thread, I figured out what was written on the saw, it says: 

MAX SPEED OF MANDREL

(???) R.P.M.     NO. 41.

The max speed of the “mandrel” or arbor is too far gone to read.

Anyone know it?

Edit: Did some research and it says 1000 RPM. I’ll post a picture on here when I restore it.

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2 hours ago, WyattFarmall said:

The $1000 was for a brand new one that was slightly used, I paid $150 for my belt driven saw. I wouldn’t expect more than $300 out of one.

Ahhh ok. I was going to say 1000 bucks seems crazy for that death trap.  Thanks for the info!

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