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I just bought a Sears buzz saw, run off a belt. It has a sliding table instead of a pivoting table. What is puzzling me is that it has some writing on the cover for the shaft, anybody know what these said on them? I plan on repainting it and if there was writing I want to be able to repaint the words. What I can make out is NO. 41. on the bottom left of the shaft, and thats about it.

The words are really hard to make out, but if you zoom in you can see some of it.

Any ideas?

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Cant help ya much with the words but I have one of those.  

A hand held tach on the shaft is what I always used to set speed. ---My 40" sawmill blade was hammered for 585 and 540 tractor had to have the gov stepped up a bit to run it. As for cutting small

Yep, it is all about common sense. It aint safe to drive either but we all do it.

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Same as Kevin, I can't help you with the lettering, but that looks just like the one I have. Not sure how it was originally ran, but, the one I have we've always mounted on the front of an H or M, and it has a cast iron idler or tensioner pulley on it. Works real good.

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26 minutes ago, kevinj said:

I did find some numbers on a piece when I had it tore apart.

I at least took a pic tho I will not be putting them back on the saw.

 

 

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Thanks for posting that. Ive been looking through old Sears catalogs to see if there was a picture of the saw in there. I figure I’ll just paint over it if I cant make out the words.

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Your buzz saw is a Sears (David Bradley) model 700.141.

It was made by someone else for Sears. Anything produced by Sears would have a 917.XXX number. 

917.xxxx = Sears made

700.xxxxxx or any other number = Outsourced to another manufacturer to build.

The numbers or letters could be a "bundle number". Stenciled on parts at the factory to represent what models certain parts go to. 

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8 hours ago, Allredallday said:

Your buzz saw is a Sears (David Bradley) model 700.141.

It was made by someone else for Sears. Anything produced by Sears would have a 917.XXX number. 

917.xxxx = Sears made

700.xxxxxx or any other number = Outsourced to another manufacturer to build.

The numbers or letters could be a "bundle number". Stenciled on parts at the factory to represent what models certain parts go to. 

I never thought of it being from the manufacturing side. 

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44 minutes ago, WyattFarmall said:

I never thought of it being from the manufacturing side. 

Pretty sure he is right as the sears tag has all different numbers.

The good news is that it is mostly standard iron and bolts.

The only thing I had not torn apart was the arbor itself as the bearings run glass smooth.

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 Congratulations , you now own one of the most dangerous tools  know to man . 

Keep an eye on the bearings,  if they are the  babbitt type when they go bad the whole thing becomes a giant Catastrophe

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12 minutes ago, lorenzo said:

 Congratulations , you now own one of the most dangerous tools  know to man . 

Keep an eye on the bearings,  if they are the  babbitt type when they go bad the whole thing becomes a giant Catastrophe

We had a 3pt woodsman here, used it alot, not the safest tool, but you could pound wood out with it.  My brother still has it, although it hasn't been used in years.

post-27-0-20594200-1358111435_thumb.jpg 

 

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I junked one like that a couple years ago!  I still have one that has the tilt table, I was thinking Wards but it may have been Sears on that one too. I used to use it a lot when we processed firewood for sale.  Cut many tons of wood,--even bought a new blade for it.

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9 minutes ago, lightninboy said:

So...where do you buy new blades for them?...there are new buzzsaws being made, but will their blades fit old buzzsaws?

I know woodsman has them, would have to modify the shaft or either  wire EDM a bigger hole in the blade or machine spacers to reduce it to fit something else.  

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1 hour ago, lightninboy said:

So...where do you buy new blades for them?...there are new buzzsaws being made, but will their blades fit old buzzsaws?

A lot of them have 1 3/8 shaft, I have one blade with 1 5/8 bore with a bushing down to 1 3/8.

Any good saw shop should be able to the bore fit.

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From my understanding the teeth are supposed to be bent into a V shape so that there is no friction against the blade, because the heat of friction would warp the blade.

I also heard that the cutting edge of the tooth should be inline with the center of the blade.

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I can attest to lack of grease on babbitt bearings!  I thought I had kept Dad's old mounted saw well greased, but when the babbitt melted out the side of the shaft, I knew I was done.  That saw had heated the old farmhouse (still standing and being used) for many years. Had survived mountings on a JD B, Allis WD, and IH super M, that I still have.  Was lucky and a friend gave me his 3 point mount that I put behind the 460 Utility fast hitch with adapters.  Still cutting wood.

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1 hour ago, lightninboy said:

Is there a setting tool you're supposed to have, or can you set teeth freestyle?

I could never see how people could saw with low horsepower without jamming, but probably the tooth set has a lot to do with it.

Neighbors here always set ours...............They are dead now, but grew up running sawmills.  I know absolutely zip about it, they never used a tool and sharpened with files on the arbor, would cut like mad and have ran it with a tractor as small as a 8N DORF without issue.

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