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806 Constant mesh gear line up


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Just replaced my original 806 countershaft with a left hand threaded one.  I put the splined spacer on first, followed by the gears and spacers.  I did not shim my new TA, so I didn't add shims to countershaft. I made sure to use the new mesh gear that came with the new hy-cap TA.
 
The constant mesh gear is riding the rear of the gear on the TA.  The teeth fully engaged with each other, just not centered.   The direct drive gear seems to be almost spot on center. 
 
Will this cause any issues?

20200401_222649.jpg

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27 minutes ago, cornerpost said:

New gear meshing with old even if lined  up apt to be noisy at first. If it were mine I would sleep better if they were both new or at the least lined up. On a light use tractor probably get away with what your picture shows. 

He said he put the new gears in......  clearly stated. 

 

I don't know that I would worry about it.  What do you plan to do with this 806? 

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as long as it's catching 100% which it appears to be, I wouldn't worry with it.

 

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59 minutes ago, AmateurHobbyFarmer said:

Cutting and baling hay (large rounds and sqaures) and brush mowing.  Don't plan on plowing or anything. 

It's fine. I'm not sure even if you added a shim it would affect it much.  Let it run. 

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You said that you did not shim the new TA , did you check it with a dial indicator while lifting the TA unit with a pry bar?

TA6.jpg

IMG_3672.jpg

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1 hour ago, Charlieu said:

You said that you did not shim the new TA , did you check it with a dial indicator while lifting the TA unit with a pry bar?

TA6.jpg

IMG_3672.jpg

I did, but I checked it differently.  I actually checked end play on the quill side.

Dropped the TA in without the o-ring installed,  bolted the front in,  spun it around.  Then I set up my indicator to read the quill surface.  And when I tighten the quill housing bolts, I get the end play.  Supposed to read between .005 and .025.  Mine read at .02.  

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9 minutes ago, AmateurHobbyFarmer said:

I did, but I checked it differently.  I actually checked end play on the quill side.

Dropped the TA in without the o-ring installed,  bolted the front in,  spun it around.  Then I set up my indicator to read the quill surface.  And when I tighten the quill housing bolts, I get the end play.  Supposed to read between .005 and .025.  Mine read at .02.  

Just curious.... why would you do it that way?  That's quite a bit more complicated that doing it all from the input side. 

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Guess I didn't know I could check it that way as well.

Bought the TA from Redrunrite and the forum on his website showed the check tolerances process, so I went ahead with it.  Took his word for it as he's installed over a hundred of the heavy duty TA's and only had a couple fail (think he said one failed on a 600hp pulling tractor and the other was for some other weird reason - mcv problems or something).

Didn't seem too difficult to do it that way.  I have the TA on an engine stand and it rotates easy.  Dropped it in with the o-ring hanging on the top side of the TA.  After doing the check, you just unbolt the TA, pull it up a few inches, slip the o-ring underneath and let it back down.  

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1 hour ago, AmateurHobbyFarmer said:

Guess I didn't know I could check it that way as well.

Bought the TA from Redrunrite and the forum on his website showed the check tolerances process, so I went ahead with it.  Took his word for it as he's installed over a hundred of the heavy duty TA's and only had a couple fail (think he said one failed on a 600hp pulling tractor and the other was for some other weird reason - mcv problems or something).

Didn't seem too difficult to do it that way.  I have the TA on an engine stand and it rotates easy.  Dropped it in with the o-ring hanging on the top side of the TA.  After doing the check, you just unbolt the TA, pull it up a few inches, slip the o-ring underneath and let it back down.  

Funny that didnt need shimmed at all.  About all the ones I remembered putting in required shimming of the quill, but they are Ag parts units.   

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