Great Grandma's H

[WyattFarmall 68]

52 minutes ago, DPH1256 said:

When i order the sediment bowl and carb rebuild kit tomorrow should I also order an ignition rebuild kit?

I would test for spark to determine if you even need the kit. Remove a spark plug and ground the threads to the chassis with the wire on. Somehow turn over the engine, whether it be the starter, hand crank or just using the fan blade, and if a spark jumps the gap you know you don’t need the kit. If you want to be safe, buy the kit. Better to only pay shipping once.

[iowaboy1965 2,339]

Lot of guys are complaining that he newer ignition kit stuff is not near the quality of the old. Dont throw anything away yet. And i agree if it has spark, for now leave it and try to get it going. Might need to clean points but i bet it will go. 

[iowaboy1965 2,339]

A magneto has a coil and points also. They just have their own power source so no battery needed to run. The one small wire off the side goes to ground thru your switch to kill the ignition and shut it off. 

[braol 1]

I'm all about rebuilding BUT...I put a new magneto from Steiner on my H and I couldn't be happier.  Usually carbs just get gunked-up.  I would flush it and see if it runs...you can always disassemble the carb and clean it.  I usually don't find that a rebuild is in order unless it really runs poorly with a good magneto.  There's not much to the carb...other than the governor, it's no more complicated than the carb on my 1931 Model A Ford.

[DPH1256 12]

Still waiting on parts, but I got some stuff done this weekend. I had ordered some brake parts so that is fixed. I removed the gas tank and cleaned that out. The rear tank support was rusted out on the bottom. I ordered one off eBay and that came saturday. I had to do some welding to get the three bottom bolts out. 

I wanted to hook a battery up to check for spark but I ran out of time. Instead I pruned my apple trees and rototillered the garden.

[55cub 53]

1 hour ago, DPH1256 said:

Still waiting on parts, but I got some stuff done this weekend. I had ordered some brake parts so that is fixed. I removed the gas tank and cleaned that out. The rear tank support was rusted out on the bottom. I ordered one off eBay and that came saturday. I had to do some welding to get the three bottom bolts out. 

I wanted to hook a battery up to check for spark but I ran out of time. Instead I pruned my apple trees and rototillered the garden.

I hate it when yard/garden work interferes with my tractor time.

[braol 1]

On 4/6/2020 at 3:34 PM, 55cub said:

I hate it when yard/garden work interferes with my tractor time.

That's why I'll get out the tractor...even for small jobs!  I had to bring paint brushes over to my wife who is repainting the screen house.  Yup, I fired-up the H and drove 100 yards with paint brush in hand.  The wife shaking her head is ALWAYS evidence that I'm having fun.

[fputnamjr 10]

It's important to save your energy for those really difficult jobs so driving the tractor 100 yards to deliver a paint bursh makes total sense. I hope she didn't make you get off the tractor. 

[560Dennis 1,396]

Run a GL1 gear oil  in your differential , that does not have sulfur addition . The sulphur will attack the bronze bearings . 

[DPH1256 12]

Hit a major snag yesterday. I checked for spark none (not surprised). I went to  work to get to the points and one of the three slotted screws the head stripped out. 

 

I would be grateful for suggestions on how to proceed.

Thanks

[TomH 1,571]

Parts for these magnetos are easy to find. Here is one on eBay that contains screws.https://www.ebay.com/itm/IH-Farmall-H4-Magneto-SS-Deluxe-Rebuild-Hardware-Kit-Super-A-AV-B-BN-C-H-M-MV/281610117252?hash=item4191456084:g:3ocAAOSwNSxU7PXU

You can also buy a rebuilt replacement .  I don't know if you can drill out the stripped screw or not, just take your time, there is lots of info out there.

H4 magneto diagram.

 

[WyattFarmall 68]

3 hours ago, DPH1256 said:

Hit a major snag yesterday. I checked for spark none (not surprised). I went to  work to get to the points and one of the three slotted screws the head stripped out. 

 

I would be grateful for suggestions on how to proceed.

Thanks

Not sure if you have a multimeter but I would test your coil and wiring, its more likely that the coil is bad compared to the inside of the mag. If your points are clean and set correctly there isn’t any reason it shouldn’t be working, aside from a bad condenser, but thats a rare problem.

As for the screw, I would cut a slot perpendicular to the stripped slot and try to get it out that way. If that doesn’t work I would drill a hole and use an easy-out.

[Jeff-C-IL 406]

hammer & punch to tap gently on the screw to "shock"  the stuck threads slightly.   penetrating oil.  saw or dremel tool w/cutoff wheel to cut new slot.  If none of that works, grind or drill off the screw head and work on removing the shank after sliding off the cap under it.

[DPH1256 12]

20 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

hammer & punch to tap gently on the screw to "shock"  the stuck threads slightly.   penetrating oil.  saw or dremel tool w/cutoff wheel to cut new slot.  If none of that works, grind or drill off the screw head and work on removing the shank after sliding off the cap under it.

Thanks for the idea to use a hammer and punch. I was all set to start drilling it out. I got it opened up. I have never done points before so I have no idea if anything glaringly wrong. I have new points to install and then I see if it has spark. I will order a new cap ( the contacts looked corroded) and plugs and wires, I have seen worse but I dont want to fight this forever.

[Dave Downs 314]

On 4/14/2020 at 12:19 PM, DPH1256 said:

Thanks for the idea to use a hammer and punch. I was all set to start drilling it out. I got it opened up. I have never done points before so I have no idea if anything glaringly wrong. I have new points to install and then I see if it has spark. I will order a new cap ( the contacts looked corroded) and plugs and wires, I have seen worse but I dont want to fight this forever.

If you've never done points before I'll give a bit of basic fundamentals of points that you may or may not know. You set the point gap when the points are fully open on the highest spot on the cam. I give you this advice because the the very first time I installed a set of ignition points I was unaware of this.......the engine would not start and it took the intervention of an old-timer to show me the problem.

[oldfarmkid 96]

Another point about points. The sequence of events that causes a high voltage spark at the spark plug is at the moment the points open (NOT) close. The only electrical circuit I can recall that only works properly once power is removed. Handy to know when it comes time to set timing.  

[Dave Downs 314]

7 hours ago, oldfarmkid said:

Another point about points. The sequence of events that causes a high voltage spark at the spark plug is at the moment the points open (NOT) close. The only electrical circuit I can recall that only works properly once power is removed. Handy to know when it comes time to set timing.  

That is another thing I had wrong as a youngster!😀

[oldfarmkid 96]

Thats two of us.

[DPH1256 12]

Thanks for the helpful pointers I have been busy with my two boys so no progress. I have watched a couple of you tube videos so I think i know what to do.

[fputnamjr 10]

This conversation about setting points makes me feel old! 😄

[DPH1256 12]

Update. I have spark now. I have been very busy but finally had time this weekend to work on the tractor. Now I want to rebuild the carb.

 

I had to clean the old parts really well to get spark. The new parts did not fit, are the new parts wrong or do i have a funky ignition? Old parts on left. On the bottom picture you can see the spring for the point is curved the wrong way

[stoney1918 3]

Those are for a battery ignition distributor, not compatible with your magneto. The old parts don't look too bad from here. If the contacts and the spring loaded carbon brush in the center of the cap is ok you're probably fine with the old stuff.

[DPH1256 12]

6 hours ago, stoney1918 said:

Those are for a battery ignition distributor, not compatible with your magneto. The old parts don't look too bad from here. If the contacts and the spring loaded carbon brush in the center of the cap is ok you're probably fine with the old stuff.

I have nice spark now. The contacts inside the cap are pretty worn. That is why a wanted a new cap. I am disappointed that the listing were not more clear.

[DPH1256 12]

Its alive!!!!!!!! I want to give a big thank you to everyone who helped with all my questions. 

 

[Matt Kirsch 881]

On 7/6/2020 at 8:54 PM, DPH1256 said:

I have nice spark now. The contacts inside the cap are pretty worn. That is why a wanted a new cap. I am disappointed that the listing were not more clear.

From what I'm finding you want ignition parts for a Farmall H with an H4 magneto, not "a distributor cap and rotor for a Farmall H." Asking for the latter will result in people ASSUMING that you have a battery ignition and giving you the more common battery ignition parts.