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Hi, new guy here! I’ve got myself a project going on a td6 I picked up. I think it’s a 1963? 62series with the 6D-4 bulldozer.43100E77-61DD-42E5-9B57-014D412B2C73.thumb.jpeg.959d16bd67da29dec6a9948b6dda5674.jpeg

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Two questions at the moment.....

Steering clutch removal, how do you guys get the giant Phillips head clutch fork pivot loose? I ended up pulling out the diagonal braces and have a drag link socket to fit into the stud. Is there a better way?BC935FAD-B6DA-469C-AB95-83DB079DB165.thumb.jpeg.5eacc591e91b4ad638037fb32cef8d34.jpeg

Second question...

It has the B/E style 6D-4 bull dozer set up on it. Someone took and put a big bolt through the center of the blade and it allows it to pivot up and down. I wonder if you guys have some picture of the back of the blade on your machines to see how they are actually mounted.

Thanks in advance......

 

 

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J, 

Nice looking tractor, looks to be very straight, what is the piece that is right behind the front idler that goes over the front idler adjuster rod? Is that something added on? You do not need to pull the diagonal caps off to get to that pivot screw. After removing the lock (10) I use an offset screwdriver to back out the pivots (8) you do not need to remove the pivots, just back them out, the forks will then come out. You will need to make up some compressor angle tools to compress the steering clutch to give you ample room to get your fingers behind the bearing cage cap. The smaller the fingers are the easier to work on this. 

IH TD6 steering clutch release fork.jpg

IH TD6 steering clutch compression tool.jpg

IH TD6 Steering clutch 2.jpg

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2 hours ago, louie figone said:

J, 

Nice looking tractor, looks to be very straight, what is the piece that is right behind the front idler that goes over the front idler adjuster rod? Is that something added on? You do not need to pull the diagonal caps off to get to that pivot screw. After removing the lock (10) I use an offset screwdriver to back out the pivots (8) you do not need to remove the pivots, just back them out, the forks will then come out. You will need to make up some compressor angle tools to compress the steering clutch to give you ample room to get your fingers behind the bearing cage cap. The smaller the fingers are the easier to work on this. 

IH TD6 steering clutch release fork.jpg

IH TD6 steering clutch compression tool.jpg

IH TD6 Steering clutch 2.jpg

Thanks for the info!!! I’ve got a couple manuals and actually got another one in the mail just for the blade set up.

Ill have to make some of those compressor tools so I can get these out. 

Good news is I got the right side pivot pin out tonight. Bad news is I tried the other side and ended up shearing off my socket and breaking one of the four corners off the pivot pin!

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B77B1CE9-8CDE-4D69-BCAF-1FB6F9A1A59F.thumb.jpeg.e3800ad05b6fe2514cffd5d059d2d15a.jpeg

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3 hours ago, louie figone said:

J.

I do not have that blade setup on my 6, I do have some sales info that might help you. Maybe someone on this forum has one of these blade setups and can post some pictures.

IH TD6-62 Bulldozer Bullgrader.jpg

IH TD6-62 Bulldozer Bullgrader 2.jpg

That’s a big help right there even! I’ll have to get some pictures of the interesting way someone set mine up. I’m not sure how you could manage to push anything without one side or the other tilting down and making a mess.

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2 hours ago, mmi said:

op can look in the other td 6 posts for photo of the std BE center swivel

those clutch s look clean enough a soaking and work out may save pulling them, just for sticking

 

20200315_141735.jpg.55e950ce4c61ec58d0d1

That would be a nice set up to have on my blade. I’ll have to snoop around some more and see what everyone has.
 

 As for the clutches it was parked for the last few years on dirt in the woods and there’s no covers on the bottom. They are both seized tight and the left brake doesn’t work at all, so I figured I’d pull them and spruce everything up. Hopefully never have to do it again.

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patience, walk away.... kind words.... they can be tough to get out if stuck bad....band-aid and dropped bolts   dont forget to mark  locations

make some covers to keep dirt from packing in

photos......

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On 3/25/2020 at 5:55 PM, louie figone said:

J, 

Nice looking tractor, looks to be very straight, what is the piece that is right behind the front idler that goes over the front idler adjuster rod? Is that something  added?

Looks added on possibly judging by the weld.  Left side is intact right side is missing looks to have been snapped off. I’m wondering if the adjuster rods were snapped at some point as well judging by the weld near the threaded part?

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708369F5-C921-447C-9CB2-A76DBBED0768.thumb.jpeg.9bc3fa79ecc6a855fe7f766e17d4b327.jpeg
 

72DE4CC2-7D15-41FB-B7DB-00C595206D68.thumb.jpeg.70870e7fd66fbbd03b2eb9fdaf578ded.jpeg

 

A63232D1-FAE0-451E-BA3F-DDF1E3C61DA9.thumb.jpeg.d598daf6950e237cc058f3a740aebe91.jpeg

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Here’s some blade shots of what it’s got hanging on it. I’m not convinced it’s all IH. It has definitely had some modifications regardless. 
the blade hangs from a big bolt through the face of the moldboard which goes through the C-channel someone welded between the push arms. That is the only point of attachment from the blade to the frame!88BF2B0E-E03C-47DE-8C63-E6B671FB5D59.jpeg.cb7068bf99eda0302e0820e536ec4776.jpeg

 

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9247FE36-7908-4F29-9B4C-75A017C0511B.jpeg.0553fb033b23221bcab09ef2d2d67dc9.jpeg

im kind of thinking on welding the blade right to the frame and calling it good with some solid braces to take the place of the turnbuckle style adjusters. As a side not the turnbuckle adjuster on the right side is welded solid anyway.

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J,  take some more pictures of how the blade is attached, something is not right there. The 6-D4 Bulldozer should be attached by four pins on the booms (push arms) These are the hinges for when you tilt the blade. The picture mmi posted is of the Bullgrader which is an angle blade, its a different setup. The pictures here are of an Ag. blade but the hinge attachments are the same for the construction blade. The turnbuckles are for tilting the blade, don't weld it up.  Show us some pictures of attachment points.

IH TD9B dozer blade right hinge.jpg

IH TD9B dozer blade left hinge.jpg

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Interesting, I wonder if they put that center pivot not knowing that by turning the turnbuckles is how the blade was tilted. Don't make it a solid straight blade, if you are able (cost wise) make it a hydraulic tilt, you will be amazed how much more you can push with a hydraulic tilt plus you will be able to cut ditches, crown roads etc. Have fun.

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I’m hoping to be able to make it as close to the original set up as possible. I didn’t think about using cylinders in place of the turnbuckles you make it tilt from the seat! 🤔
 

 

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When the front idler adjusting rod has been broken like that check the free play in the idler slides.

And if you don't fix that and do a super job of fixing the rod it might well brake the long bolts that hold the recoil springs

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20 hours ago, J. Dirt said:

I’m hoping to be able to make it as close to the original set up as possible. I didn’t think about using cylinders in place of the turnbuckles you make it tilt from the seat! 🤔
 

Operating manual for the 6G-4 and 6D-4 on ebay

Ohttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=23&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwikhJSrq8DoAhWSvp4KHdUQCF0QFjAWegQIAxAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FInternational-IH-TD6-62-Series-Crawler-Tractor-6G4-Blade-Owner-Operator-Manual-%2F252847670088&usg=AOvVaw3Kvw2YoyO9QFlo8kJLBYjNperating manual for the 6G-4 and 6D-4 on ebay

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