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H clutch problem


WyattFarmall
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One of my H’s only has about 1/2” of engagement throughout the travel of the pedal. After it engages the pedal stays and doesn’t return to the base plate of the transmission. I took off the clutch inspection plate and there is a fair bit of friction material left, and the clutch return spring is still expanded. Maybe something is getting caught? I would appreciate any advice given.

Also, the tractor functions just fine, although I rarely stall going into 5th. Compared to my other H, the resistance when pushing the pedal is very low. What I assumed was the clutch needed to be replaced but with a job like that I wanted to be sure.

-Wyatt

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Everything you have pictured is all there is to the clutch system on that tractor. If anything is getting caught you should be able to see it.

Can you pull the pedal back to the platform or does it feel like it hit a hard stop?

The return spring in picture #2 doesn't look at all stretched to me.

You can replace the clutch on this tractor without splitting. Simply lower the belly pump out of the way and there's plenty of room to work.

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1 hour ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Everything you have pictured is all there is to the clutch system on that tractor. If anything is getting caught you should be able to see it.

Can you pull the pedal back to the platform or does it feel like it hit a hard stop?

The return spring in picture #2 doesn't look at all stretched to me.

You can replace the clutch on this tractor without splitting. Simply lower the belly pump out of the way and there's plenty of room to work.

I can freely pull it back for about 1/2” then it has a little resistance when I pull it back to the platform. My main concern is why the pedal doesn’t return. I think I will end up dropping the hydraulic pump and replacing the clutch.

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How do you know there is a fair bit of friction material left unless you take the disk out its pretty hard to see if the flywheel side is not wore down to the rivets . Another thing the pivot pins for the fingers on an H clutch seem to wear pretty badly along with the holes in the fingers and the pressure plate that could give you your pedal issues. Back when H clutch jobs were common for our shop we stocked the pins because usually we found the were wore badly  they can be changed in the tractor but you have to install the 3 compression bolts first and its just a band-aid fix if the holes are worn also. You could lower the fingers by the adjusting screws but I don"t think it will help much, give it a try you can always adjust it back. Just back the screws out a turn or so and try it you will know more about how the clutch reacts than you do now and its pretty much a free education. If it doesn't release so you can get it in gear do not force it shut the tractor off and do a clutch job. 

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How much free travel do you have now?  You did not say anything about trying to adjust the free travel with the clevis where it is pinned to the pedal.  That's where you adjust the free play (about 1 1/4 with out looking in a book).  

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From the angle of clutch operating shaft lever the release bearing is bottomed out on the release bearing sleeve. Hard to tell looking inside but looks like the sleeve snout is protruding about a inch in front of release bearing. If so a sure sigh it won't slide back anymore. Disc  is worn to thin or other clutch parts worn. Dave

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On my brothers H the sleeve that the throw out bearing slides on had a ridge worn in it so when the pedal was released the bearing would hang up on the ridge.  The sleeve is made out of something soft like pewter. I had a spare from a salvage yard and that is all it needed.

Hugh  

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On 3/17/2020 at 1:42 PM, Charlieu said:

How much free travel do you have now?  You did not say anything about trying to adjust the free travel with the clevis where it is pinned to the pedal.  That's where you adjust the free play (about 1 1/4 with out looking in a book).  

I tried adjusting the rod on the petal, and that does move the engagement to where it is comfortable accept the petal will not return to the base plate past that. 

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3 hours ago, WyattFarmall said:

I ended up adjusting the fingers out 1/8” away from the bearing. Everything seems a bit worn and pretty soon will need a clutch job, but for now the adjustment worked just fine. Again thanks for all the advice

-Wyatt

Well, you goofed.  The outside clevis is where you adjust the clutch pedal travel.  Moving the fingers you screwed up the pp adjustment.   The fingers are set when the clutch is built so that it disengages and engages uniformly.  That is not how you adjust the clutch.

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True that is not the right way to do it but the clutch is already shot. Can't hurt it any more than it already is. This way he gets a little more use out of it.

Clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing will all be replaced when it happens. If it hurts the flywheel, it's not like it's a rare tractor. IH only made 378,000+ of them. Only downside is the tractor will need to be split to replace the flywheel.

Just don't adjust the new one like that.

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5 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

True that is not the right way to do it but the clutch is already shot. Can't hurt it any more than it already is. This way he gets a little more use out of it.

Clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing will all be replaced when it happens. If it hurts the flywheel, it's not like it's a rare tractor. IH only made 378,000+ of them. Only downside is the tractor will need to be split to replace the flywheel.

Just don't adjust the new one like that.

I would bet a lot of h and ms have had many clutch discs and never had flywheel turned. Those fiber clutches didn’t cut up stuff.

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On 3/16/2020 at 2:36 PM, WyattFarmall said:

One of my H’s only has about 1/2” of engagement throughout the travel of the pedal. After it engages the pedal stays and doesn’t return to the base plate of the transmission. I took off the clutch inspection plate and there is a fair bit of friction material left, and the clutch return spring is still expanded. Maybe something is getting caught? I would appreciate any advice given.

Also, the tractor functions just fine, although I rarely stall going into 5th. Compared to my other H, the resistance when pushing the pedal is very low. What I assumed was the clutch needed to be replaced but with a job like that I wanted to be sure.

-Wyatt

5548A960-E6A6-46A4-80A2-11AF14BF6A83.jpeg

5924EDD4-B5B1-4474-AB7D-B7BEDCC7571B.jpeg

8D602644-1389-4709-A2E3-073BE803502C.jpeg

F77F9B49-0F85-4D03-A04B-2336B4D51F38.jpeg

Hopefully one of the elder generation posts on this. There was a setting of the pressure plate bolts so pp activated full travel and clutch engagement was right. This was on factory pp. but this is long ago and forgotten technique.

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1 hour ago, dale560 said:

Hopefully one of the elder generation posts on this. There was a setting of the pressure plate bolts so pp activated full travel and clutch engagement was right. This was on factory pp. but this is long ago and forgotten technique.

Are you talking about the bolts on the fingers?  If so, I'm pretty sure the IH manual gives clutch set up specs in the clutch section.  Don't have to be an old IH guy to read a manual.

Incidentally enough the shop manual... and likely even the operators manual explains how to adjust clutch pedal linkage. 

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1 hour ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Can't hurt it any more than it already is. This way he gets a little more use out of it.

True.  But one should learn how to properly maintain equipment.  Also, it's not likely the old H is dragging a plow anymore either, lol. 

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1 hour ago, J-Mech said:

Are you talking about the bolts on the fingers?  If so, I'm pretty sure the IH manual gives clutch set up specs in the clutch section.  Don't have to be an old IH guy to read a manual.

Incidentally enough the shop manual... and likely even the operators manual explains how to adjust clutch pedal linkage. 

No

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