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Bitty Built MFG


bitty

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Nice job Bitty.... wish I was that good at fabricating stuff!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I went to use a skid loader yesterday afternoon to run the log splitter . I found this in front of the shop. Quick-tach was twisted side to side. I tried to hold with a 1/2" chain and that broke. I then measured it and a press we made to press a pin out of the corn planter frame hinge and put that on. I was able to twist it back to the same plane .... for now anyway . 

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1 hour ago, bitty said:

I was able to twist it back to the same plane .... for now anyway . 

It’ll be fine . . . I’ve fixed them the same way also . . . now go find whoever was running it and tell them in your most mountain man attitude not to be lifting/pushing with no attachment on the loader . . . that’s how that tube gets twisted.

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13 minutes ago, Gearclash said:

It’ll be fine . . . I’ve fixed them the same way also . . . now go find whoever was running it and tell them in your most mountain man attitude not to be lifting/pushing with no attachment on the loader . . . that’s how that tube gets twisted.

It was dad ......  Facer came partly unhooked. I really think that it might have been not completely hooked correctly to start ? It's a hydraulic coupler .

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1 minute ago, bitty said:

It was dad ......  Facer came partly unhooked. I really think that it might have been not completely hooked correctly to start ? It's a hydraulic coupler .

Oh that could sure do it too.  Unless the coupler is really worn it must not have been locked good.  I know all the couplers I care for, including the (electric *ick!*) actuated coupler on my brother’s Cat skidsteers need frequent attention or they will start not locking properly.  Seems like every two or three or four greasings they need a good soaking with WD-40 or engine oil or whatever will slick up the old dirty grease and wash it out.

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On 12/5/2020 at 9:43 AM, bitty said:

Been busy hunting a little bit each day that I can but I primered this yesterday and today I am making it blue like the original pump was . Ford blue with a little white added to lighten it a little. Added hardner to it also

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Cool stuff you should be proud of your good work and talents what a blessing

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Hoping to trade our 1840 for another 85xt ....

Working on a used TMR mixer for a new backup mixer . Screws (or augers) are shot. Rebuilding them as new ones are 11+K . Using 3/4" plate for the"elephant ears" and 1/2" for the upper screw part, all AR400 abrasion resistant plate . Fixing the first one before cutting the second one up so I have a pattern to try and mimic

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6 hours ago, bitty said:

Hoping to trade our 1840 for another 85xt ....

Working on a used TMR mixer for a new backup mixer . Screws (or augers) are shot. Rebuilding them as new ones are 11+K . Using 3/4" plate for the"elephant ears" and 1/2" for the upper screw part, all AR400 abrasion resistant plate . Fixing the first one before cutting the second one up so I have a pattern to try and mimic

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IMG_20201229_140049440.jpg

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Pretty impressive job to undertake. I have a bunch of 1840 parts sitting around that I need to get rid of also. 

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Cousin let me borrow his pipe torch. I asked him to keep an eye out for one along with a track torch

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8 hours ago, bitty said:

Hoping to trade our 1840 for another 85xt ....

Working on a used TMR mixer for a new backup mixer . Screws (or augers) are shot. Rebuilding them as new ones are 11+K . Using 3/4" plate for the"elephant ears" and 1/2" for the upper screw part, all AR400 abrasion resistant plate . Fixing the first one before cutting the second one up so I have a pattern to try and mimic

IMG_20201229_140042577.jpg

IMG_20201229_140042577.jpg

IMG_20201229_140049440.jpg

IMG_20201230_070916421.jpg

IMG_20201230_070916421.jpg

IMG_20201230_070853248.jpg

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I give you a lot of credit.  That’s great you are able to repair those.  When ours get that bad we scrap them.   The price of them is ridiculous.   Is the pipe how you are building the center?  We wore one thin enough on the upper part that the drive hub broke out of the tube.  We cover the wings in stainless and put as much stainless on the flights as we can.  We also Hardface the edges 2 inches in and down the edge .  I hardfaced a crosshatch pattern  on the lower tube and the part that tapers in on the one truck.  Seems to help.  

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1 minute ago, Paystar5000 said:

I give you a lot of credit.  That’s great you are able to repair those.  When ours get that bad we scrap them.   The price of them is ridiculous.   Is the pipe how you are building the center?  We wore one thin enough on the upper part that the drive hub broke out of the tube.  We cover the wings in stainless and put as much stainless on the flights as we can.  We also Hardface the edges 2 inches in and down the edge .  I hardfaced a crosshatch pattern  on the lower tube and the part that tapers in on the one truck.  Seems to help.  

I will try to post pictures as it goes together. We have only put new elephant ears on one once besides adding the outside edge plates numerous times to our original one. This one we bought as it is needing augers. The re-liner looks ok. Hoping to get a reliable backup as the knight we bought two years old as a second mixer some years back we have wore bad and a gearbox went , plus it was only 730 CF instead of the 850 I think this is. Our current might be 1000 CF

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24 minutes ago, Finney said:

Have relined a few of those, triolet?? has the best fitting liner kits.

Yes Triolet 2400 Low model.

We started with a 2400 and now the main machine is a 2800 . I have not lined one yet quite , we only added in the bottom 5" on the original one

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At work we have beveling machines ("pipe torch") up to 30" dia.  Either the type with the band and crawler, or the interrupted gear type.  Watching a good pipe fitter/welder use one, then throw the ends in a line up clamp and go after it is an impressive sight.  2 welders working together on over 12"......

Sure our handy for cutting pipe......

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3 hours ago, bitty said:

Cousin let me borrow his pipe torch. I asked him to keep an eye out for one along with a track torch

How straight and square is the resulting cut with that jig?  I cut 12” pipe sometimes for my stalk rollers with a plasma cutter and wouldn’t mind a more “professional” method of guiding the torch head if the cut is reasonably accurate and the equipment doesn’t break the bank.

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11 hours ago, Gearclash said:

How straight and square is the resulting cut with that jig?  I cut 12” pipe sometimes for my stalk rollers with a plasma cutter and wouldn’t mind a more “professional” method of guiding the torch head if the cut is reasonably accurate and the equipment doesn’t break the bank.

Fairy nice cut , better if you crank very even feed rate .  Just cleaned up the slag and this is what they look like

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4 hours ago, bitty said:

Fairy nice cut , better if you crank very even feed rate .  Just cleaned up the slag and this is what they look like

Pictures make the cuts look pretty decent. Let me ask this, if the pipe ends were beveled, would the cut be accurate enough to weld two longer pieces together without having too much gap in the joint?  Assuming the two pieces are dead straight to each other. 

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44 minutes ago, Gearclash said:

Pictures make the cuts look pretty decent. Let me ask this, if the pipe ends were beveled, would the cut be accurate enough to weld two longer pieces together without having too much gap in the joint?  Assuming the two pieces are dead straight to each other. 

I believe they are accurate enough. The tip can be angled for beveling it while cutting it to length. I'm sure it is widely used in the pipeline industry.

 

Here is the 20" pipe that I added 3" circumference to make it close to the original size. It welds on the bottom of the upper pipe by means of a 3/4" thick"washer" . Original one was worn through at places . (Pictures out of order)

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18 hours ago, Mr. Plow said:

At work we have beveling machines ("pipe torch") up to 30" dia.  Either the type with the band and crawler, or the interrupted gear type.  Watching a good pipe fitter/welder use one, then throw the ends in a line up clamp and go after it is an impressive sight.  2 welders working together on over 12"......

Sure our handy for cutting pipe......

Yeah, we have a huge collection of them in the shop, from 2” to 56” with beveling machines to bands and then end facers for if they are not good enough for the work on hand.  
 

2 hours ago, Gearclash said:

Pictures make the cuts look pretty decent. Let me ask this, if the pipe ends were beveled, would the cut be accurate enough to weld two longer pieces together without having too much gap in the joint?  Assuming the two pieces are dead straight to each other. 

Never used the model he is running.  But we demoed some similar models, they could cut relatively straight, but needed some time to get set up and then we always blasted one trip around with the oxy on to clean the pipe, a second trip around to preheat and a third trip to cut.  But we really wanted a smooth cut.

 

by relatively straight I mean 3/32 overall on a 12” pipe

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17 minutes ago, AKwelder said:

by relatively straight I mean 3/32 overall on a 12” pipe

I think I could live with 3/32.  Wouldn’t want to deal with any more than that.  I think I was at or a little under a 3/32 gap when I spliced 12” pipe this spring that was cut with my crude system.  At least I can rotate the pieces to minimize the gap.  They have to be held dead straight during welding  as they are rotating elements at least 10’ long.  Any significant misalignment would get ugly fast.

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4 hours ago, AKwelder said:

Yeah, we have a huge collection of them in the shop, from 2” to 56” with beveling machines to bands and then end facers for if they are not good enough for the work on hand.  
 

Never used the model he is running.  But we demoed some similar models, they could cut relatively straight, but needed some time to get set up and then we always blasted one trip around with the oxy on to clean the pipe, a second trip around to preheat and a third trip to cut.  But we really wanted a smooth cut.

 

by relatively straight I mean 3/32 overall on a 12” pipe

Yeah, clean pipe/burn coating on first pass, then cut.  As long as the pipe isn't out of round they are very accurate and only need a quick facing with the grinder to be weld ready.  

Manual cuts are marked with a wrap around.

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6 hours ago, Gearclash said:

I think I could live with 3/32.  Wouldn’t want to deal with any more than that.  I think I was at or a little under a 3/32 gap when I spliced 12” pipe this spring that was cut with my crude system.  At least I can rotate the pieces to minimize the gap.  They have to be held dead straight during welding  as they are rotating elements at least 10’ long.  Any significant misalignment would get ugly fast.

I would not buy one without demoing it, and checking the performance and squareness of the cut.  
 

if it’s only a few cuts you can hand cut them and then bevel and true them up with a 9 inch fairly easy. Lord knows we have done miles of them.

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