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zetor 5245 clutch


IH OAK
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canadianfarmer, Do we have to replace the gasket on the front FWA driveshaft? It is super weird, but there is some sort of tin or aluminum gasket in between the u-joint and the diff.

4 hours ago, canadianfarmer said:

Some of them were greasable but most were oil drop. Simply few drops of oil every now and again and that keeps your release bearing lubricated

Ours WAS oil drop, until the bearing failed. was there some sort of swab on the end? The ex-dealer who fixed ours when we left it in 4 said some had some sort of swab in the end.

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BTW I am not asking HOW to change the clutch, just asking what problems I might encounter. I have gathered that some people think I know nothing about mechanics and building things.

  • Haha 2
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  • 1 month later...

So we got it back together last week (I think) and finally got around to firing it up last night. While I was cranking it (the fuel lines and pump were dry and the primer didn't help much) the steering wheel started spinning around to the left. I got my brother to hold it until it started but it fought him like all git out. I think the P.S. valve is stuck. Did we not put it on right? I am sure it went back just like it came off but maybe something is messed is inside. Any ideas?

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I think I may have found the answer but I am not sure. Correct me if I am wrong. the PS valve switch is supposed to move horizontally, but it seems to be turned 90 degrees. Like I said it fought like the devil to turn to the left(contract). could the valve mechanism have been turned 90?

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I was just working on it again and found that the valve dosn't seem to change anything no matter where I put it. The valve moves all around. Is it broke?

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27 minutes ago, lightninboy said:

I see there's a Zetorworld forum...but it's not a big active forum....

Yeah. But it is not helpful.

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The valve seems to be broken because no matter what we do it still contracts when we crank the engine.

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3 hours ago, IH OAK said:

The valve seems to be broken because no matter what we do it still contracts when we crank the engine.

You likely hooked the hydraulic hoses up incorrectly.  BTDT, seen this happen. 

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19 hours ago, J-Mech said:

You likely hooked the hydraulic hoses up incorrectly.  BTDT, seen this happen. 

No. I already thought of that. One has a way bigger banjo nut than the other and we only took one banjo nut off. I will try to get pics.

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1 minute ago, IH OAK said:

No. I already thought of that. One has a way bigger banjo nut than the other and we only took one banjo nut off. I will try to get pics.

Then another hose somewhere else. 

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On 5/24/2020 at 8:12 PM, J-Mech said:

Then another hose somewhere else. 

We didn't take anything else off as far as PS.

We also messed with the valve control etc. with the engine cranking and it didn't change anything. It still contracted. We think it is in the valve.

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Just now, canadianfarmer said:

if you could upload pictures that would be great. is this a large steering cylinder on the left hand side with the control valve built onto the cylinder?

 

Yes. I will propably try at about 1500-1600.

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Just now, canadianfarmer said:

there should be no need to dis-assemble the valve, if you only dis-connected the lines and took the tie rod end off the valve is just out of adjustment

 

How do we adjust it?

We Did put a new ball joint on at the end where it fastens to the frame. The old one was completely destroyed. I could jerk it around propably an inch or so. The threaded part on the old one appeared to have the broken and the new one seemed to be 1/2" longer than the old one. Would that make a difference? We disconnected the steering control linkage and put a short pipe on it and my Dad moved it all around while I cranked it and it didn't make a difference. It still contracted 100% of the time.

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16 minutes ago, canadianfarmer said:

there should be no need to dis-assemble the valve, if you only dis-connected the lines and took the tie rod end off the valve is just out of adjustment

 

We got new seals put in and we put in new piston rings because one of the old ones was broken and the pieces we found didn't add up.

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5 hours ago, canadianfarmer said:

if you could upload pictures that would be great. is this a large steering cylinder on the left hand side with the control valve built onto the cylinder?

 

Here are some.IMG_6165.thumb.JPG.e4ed91372895f9c9378a0398b4d6871a.JPGIMG_6163.thumb.JPG.291b1ae985b2b3b6d10006b7a8f63840.JPGIMG_6169.thumb.JPG.15c488617a1dfed117d32f70ccabfb22.JPGIMG_6175.thumb.JPG.b1c6d2f2e51c58d6ea934e05c9241c05.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...
3 hours ago, canadianfarmer said:

loosen the clamp bolt off and turn it one way or the other and adjust the cylinder. this adjusts the small valve inside and will bring your steering back to normal

Thanks. My Dad got the PS pages from the repair manual emailed to him about two weeks ago and it works fine since I adjusted it. Now we just have to finish adjusting the clutch.

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We got everything fixed and I bush hogged for about an hour and everything seemed fine until I realized that it clocked -.02 hrs. Then I disked for about 5 hrs and the clock didn't move. I cant figure out what is up. Is this a cable drive tach or electric?

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