Jump to content

zetor 5245 clutch


IH OAK
 Share

Recommended Posts

My dad has a Zetor 5245 tractor and the clutch blew up. It has a cab and FWA. One of my mechanic friends said we will have to remove the cab to remove the clutch easily. does anyone know anything about this machine and anything about the clutch and repairing it? The tractor is the awsomest machine I have ever driven because of how tough it is built. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you need to find another "mechanic" friend to get advice from.  

Not seen a tractor yet the cab had to come off of to change a clutch.  Albeit, it's much easier on the 4366, 4586 and 4786 International 4wd tractors to change the clutch with the cab removed, but it can be done with the cab installed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There aint many Zetors around here but you see one every now and then, guy i know had one he asked me to look at it i cant remember what for but i do remember to stay as far away from them as I can from now on.Old co worker had a one 15 or twenty years ago he always said he went to get parts for it and couldnt because they blew up the factory they made them in, he sold it after than he also liked to tell stories so i took it with a grain of salt ?‍♀️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, 88power said:

There aint many Zetors around here but you see one every now and then, guy i know had one he asked me to look at it i cant remember what for but i do remember to stay as far away from them as I can from now on.Old co worker had a one 15 or twenty years ago he always said he went to get parts for it and couldnt because they blew up the factory they made them in, he sold it after than he also liked to tell stories so i took it with a grain of salt ?‍♀️

bunch of bs! their parts system is very good ; they are different to work on because they are European and the requirement for lighting ,and braking over there are quite different so the wiring is rather confusing otherwise rather easy to work on. Biggest parts problem I have had in the last year or so is UPS getting the shipment the 12 of DEC in Florida and it arriving in Minn 2+weeks later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's not like you can just drive down to your friendly neighborhood Zetor dealer 5 minutes away and get parts, but think about it, it hasn't been that way for a long time even with the big name brands. Dealer consolidation means your "local" dealer could be 50, 100, 200 miles away if you don't live where there is a lot of farming going on.

You order the parts online and they're shipped to your door. That's opened up the realm of possibility for these so-called orphan tractors. "Can't get parts" is something someone stuck in 1985 would say. In 2020, if you gotta order it from the Czech Republic, no big deal. It'll be here in a few days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

they are fairly easy to split. once split you will have to jack the cab approximately 4" to remove the front support tube that goes through the bell housing. Once the tube has been removed the release bearing can be removed. also check the front transmission cover bolts to make sure they are tight. they had a re-call to replace the factory nuts on this cover. if there is a gasket behind this cover be sure to install a new gasket. the gasket was only used on early models. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/12/2020 at 8:42 AM, J-Mech said:

I think you need to find another "mechanic" friend to get advice from.  

Not seen a tractor yet the cab had to come off of to change a clutch.  Albeit, it's much easier on the 4366, 4586 and 4786 International 4wd tractors to change the clutch with the cab removed, but it can be done with the cab installed. 

Sorry. He meant that it might possibly make it somewhat easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lifting the cab is not worth the work, they are not the best cabs to lift, all bell housing bolts are relativity easy to get to. i believe majority of them require a 16mm socket or wrench. when doing this clutch job i strongly suggest replacing the clutch slave and master. if not the master at least the slave. have seen many fail shortly after a clutch job.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also make sure all the linkage to operate the pto clutch is free around here they are not used for pto work as much, mostly loader work and we see them with stuck pto linkage cross shafts, it seems after a clutch job the seals on the slave cylinder must be riding in a different area and the seals leak so I too would replace the cylinder like canadianfarmer suggested

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/13/2020 at 11:59 AM, Matt Kirsch said:

"Can't get parts" is something someone stuck in 1985 would say. In 2020, if you gotta order it from the Czech Republic, no big deal. It'll be here in a few days.

Yes, I love it when I hear people say this.  In 2020 if you can't find it, someone will likely make it for you.  "Can't afford parts." Is more likely the case than can't find them.

Ten years ago that wasn't the case though.  I kept a few things around that I wanted to fix, but couldn't find reasonably priced parts for them ten years ago.  Example: I have a Shindaiwa C30 brush cutter. (Heavy duty weed eater with a saw blade on it.)  Carb went to pot on it or broke or something.  I could get one from Shindaiwa, but it was $300.  Well shoot, I could buy a new brush cutter for literally a few dollars more!  So, I just hung on to it.  I looked last summer for a carb for it on a whim and now I can get one all day for $70.  Now I'll spend $70 to fix it.  I haven't yet, but for no particular reason.  Point is, there are a lot more options now than there were a few years ago.  But.... like in the Reliance thread, what you get might be junk, but you can get parts, lol. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There isn't a $8.99-$20.00 carb for it?  Serious....my local lawn n garden shop orders them of eBay, he recommended I try one on my 8-10yr old leaf blower that I was trying to give him for parts if he wanted it.  I ordered one, ($8.99, plus $5 shipping) slapped it in, it came with two new gaskets (only uses one,?) fired right up.  Choke lever didn't fit through the plastic cover just right, dremel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, stronger800 said:

There isn't a $8.99-$20.00 carb for it?

Not this model.  Shindaiwa and some early Echo monstrous weed eaters were the only application if I recall.  This is a 30cc engine man.  Pretty big even in today's brush cutters.  Plus, it has a manual bleeder valve to prime the fuel system, which if memory serves is what broke on the original one. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/13/2020 at 9:33 PM, canadianfarmer said:

lifting the cab is not worth the work, they are not the best cabs to lift, all bell housing bolts are relativity easy to get to. i believe majority of them require a 16mm socket or wrench. when doing this clutch job i strongly suggest replacing the clutch slave and master. if not the master at least the slave. have seen many fail shortly after a clutch job.   

 

On 3/14/2020 at 10:15 AM, R190 said:

Also make sure all the linkage to operate the pto clutch is free around here they are not used for pto work as much, mostly loader work and we see them with stuck pto linkage cross shafts, it seems after a clutch job the seals on the slave cylinder must be riding in a different area and the seals leak so I too would replace the cylinder like canadianfarmer suggested

we have replaced the slave cyl. 2-3 times and rebuilt all of them 5-6 times ea. we are going to put a new one on when we get the new clutch in. This is our main do-all tractor (I know it's only 45 hp.) so we use it for cutting, raking, and bailing, hauling wood bush-hoging, plowing, disking etc. the pto is indispensible. 

 

On 3/15/2020 at 12:45 AM, J-Mech said:

Yes, I love it when I hear people say this.  In 2020 if you can't find it, someone will likely make it for you.  "Can't afford parts." Is more likely the case than can't find them.

Exactly! $400 for a new back window. $850 for a new clutch etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also a maintanince schedule that includes replacing and bleeding the brake (and clutch) fluid  yearly has greatly improved the life of those components for my customers I don't know if the DOT3 picks up a little moisture or what.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, R190 said:

Also a maintanince schedule that includes replacing and bleeding the brake (and clutch) fluid  yearly has greatly improved the life of those components for my customers I don't know if the DOT3 picks up a little moisture or what.

Lately we have had to bleed the clutch about every month??. there is a belarus 825 on auctiontime, FWA, self-lev. loader, 1568 hrs (about 300 less than our tractor). It says it is 100 hp. is it clmparable to our zetor? I am convinced that only having one main tractor is not a good idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, IH OAK said:

Lately we have had to bleed the clutch about every month??. there is a belarus 825 on auctiontime, FWA, self-lev. loader, 1568 hrs (about 300 less than our tractor). It says it is 100 hp. is it clmparable to our zetor? I am convinced that only having one main tractor is not a good idea.

825s weren't a bad tractor really, probably more of them built and in farm service around the world than anything red that age.  Think I saw that one on auction time, thought it said hour meter was off? The ones sold local had a hobbs electric meter added on, the one on the tach was black taped ? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

We got the tractor split last night. It wasn't very hard. Our mechanic helped us. We found that the transmission throughout bearing failed. One of the three transmission clutch throughout arms was gone (it was down in the back of the bell housing). all of the remaining transmission throughout arms were bent with their adjuster bolts and the PTO/hyd. throughout arms and bolts. I will try to get pics up in the next couple of days.

On 3/13/2020 at 2:18 PM, canadianfarmer said:

they are fairly easy to split. once split you will have to jack the cab approximately 4" to remove the front support tube that goes through the bell housing. Once the tube has been removed the release bearing can be removed. also check the front transmission cover bolts to make sure they are tight. they had a re-call to replace the factory nuts on this cover. if there is a gasket behind this cover be sure to install a new gasket. the gasket was only used on early models. 

Is that the drip tube ? If it is it came in from the side inspection plate and was smashed off. We didn't have to jack the cab. The bell housing inspection plate is alll smashed up. the transmission throughout bearing is completely siezed. the pilot bearing is about to go out to.

 

On 3/13/2020 at 9:33 PM, canadianfarmer said:

lifting the cab is not worth the work, they are not the best cabs to lift, all bell housing bolts are relativity easy to get to. i believe majority of them require a 16mm socket or wrench. when doing this clutch job i strongly suggest replacing the clutch slave and master. if not the master at least the slave. have seen many fail shortly after a clutch job.   

Yea they were. It was a 17mm and they are a pan to get a socket on.

 

On 3/14/2020 at 7:03 PM, Matt Kirsch said:

That is probably true, but you have to weigh the time spent pulling the cab against the time spent working around the cab.

it actually wasn't hard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, IH OAK said:

The transmission throughout bearing is completely siezed. the pilot bearing is about to go out to.

After posting this my Dad and I pulled the throughout forks out and found that the PTO/hyd. clutch failed, not the Transmission clutch.

 

4 hours ago, canadianfarmer said:

It’s not a drip tube it’s a lube tube and should go to the release bearing

Is it supposed to have some sort of swab on  the end? There is all sorts of fiber spread thick in the bell housing. I thought it was clutch material but the guy who used to work on these said there was a swab of some sorts in the end of the lube tube.

 

29 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

Like a grease fitting tube? I’m interested in pics, never really been around one. (Don’t plan to either, but I’ll give it credit....it’s probably never been wrenched on before,). 

If You ever use one much you will love it. I hated ours until I started using it. Now I love it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...