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Ford 6.0 guys have I lost my everloving mind?? Input welcomed!

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1 hour ago, searcyfarms said:

oh well just thot i would check in and see, sounds like a good wait for you - dang turbos - see even the newer stuff breaks so dont be afraid of your 6.0 just because others have bashed them. Its bean planting time here people are in a frenzy - 

im sure you will be in great shape when its ready

I'm glad you did.  I am anxious to have the truck back and get it cleaned up and put into service.   I am not even sure if we can go to the DMV and get plates and title transferred yet or not.  

I joined the 6.0 and no BS facebook page just too continue to read up on these.  Seems like these 6.0 trucks are affordable to kids so they get all jacked up and boosted beyond what they ever should, and then wonder why they have issues!!  :)  I was young once too, and I remember those days constantly working on something because I rode it like a rented mule. 🤪

 

I'll keep you posted! 

 

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On 4/17/2020 at 5:23 PM, searcyfarms said:

BUMP - whats the latest? 

So I supposed to get the truck back from the shop tomorrow afternoon.  Nearly 4,300 dollars in repairs.   I had him fix everything while he was in there.  It's now studded, and he found some other things that needed fixed.  Water pump impellor was cracked for instance, and AC needed charged.  

 

I do plan to sell my 1997 GMC dually as I won't need it with this truck around.  

 

I'll update the post when I get it home and cleaned up, but I am hopeful to have a really nice truck come out of all this.  I just hope a clean 2006 F350 XL 4wd with 113K is worth 7,300 bucks.... :) I'll just need to keep it 7 years without any major repairs to feel like I got a "good deal"  🤪

 

 

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YAY!!! sounds like a good deal on the repairs, its worth it if you feel like it considering you wont be able to touch one with that kind of miles or known condition for that kind of $$ with the price of trucks these days. 

just keep teh oil/filter and fuel filters changed on it, will serve you well. 

mine gets over 18mpg all day long at 72mph - gets 17 running around from home/work - gets 12 +  pulling 12K lbs GVRW around 21ish - never want for more power it goes plenty fast enough 

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Truck runs and drives now but it's gonna need a new left front caliper. 

 

 

Ford the only brand of truck you tow to and from the repair shop lol 

46464.jpeg

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Sounds reasonable to me.   Just  A caliper? Here in NY a guy can keep a superduty caliper in stock.  When we had three of those.....I did.   The aftermarket calipers come with copper crush washers that are about 50% thinner than they should be. If running a auto store brand caliper, i would still get new copper washers from ford. 

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wow guess i am lucky - mine have never given me any trouble - what happens when they go bad? stick? pull? 

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10 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

Sounds reasonable to me.   Just  A caliper? Here in NY a guy can keep a superduty caliper in stock.  When we had three of those.....I did.   The aftermarket calipers come with copper crush washers that are about 50% thinner than they should be. If running a auto store brand caliper, i would still get new copper washers from ford. 

I think so.   The mechanic didn't drive the truck more than down to stop sign about a 1/4 mile from shop and back, so I can't really blame him.  This truck set for about 3-4 years I think before I bought it so it's to be expected I guess.  I had went to the farm today to pay the property taxes and get this truck.  I had my mom drive me about an hours drive away from farm to pick up truck and was just going to drive it back.  I didn't get too far obviously with a caliper sticking.  I had hoped it would free up but it just got worse.  So I called another buddy and we got his Ford 450 and trailer and brought it back to his shop at his turkey barns.  I will be working on getting this fixed Saturday.  

I'm hoping rotor, and everything else is still ok, and I can get by with a new set of pads and calipers on the front. 

 

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3 minutes ago, searcyfarms said:

wow guess i am lucky - mine have never given me any trouble - what happens when they go bad? stick? pull? 

and get hot and smoke..... and smell...

It's not like i haven't had other vehicles have same issue and hopefully will be an easy fix. 

I'm going to have to see why the AC isn't blowing cold too.  He briefly stuck his gauges on it and thinks it may have a blockage somewhere?  I'll work on that when I get to cleaning it up. 

 

 

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yes be aware of the seals for the 4x4 if it has the auto hubs - mine got bad, gave up on them and went to manuals - auto hubs are spendy and at the time no aftermarkets were available 

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Gotta carry a tire iron/pipe/hammer,... a few smacks will Usually unstick one enough to get it home.  I have a buddy with 17k on his ‘17......told me this morning it was in the shop getting a caliper under warranty.

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3 minutes ago, B.B. said:

and get hot and smoke..... and smell...

It's not like i haven't had other vehicles have same issue and hopefully will be an easy fix. 

I'm going to have to see why the AC isn't blowing cold too.  He briefly stuck his gauges on it and thinks it may have a blockage somewhere?  I'll work on that when I get to cleaning it up. 

 

 

those use an orifice tube in them, the orifice might be clogged up, i have heard of that showing the pressures are high - you can you tube how to get it out, some say u can put the next size smaller in it to get a little colder - mine stock works fine - it runs around 50degress running down hwy and 46 sitting at an idle with a thermo in the vent. I presume the clutch is kicking on for the compressor - if the guy had gauges he probably knew that 

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you guys probably wont belive me but my calipers are stock/new from when i bought my truck in jan 03 it was build in oct/nov 02 - i put on first set of pads at 160K and changed ball joints, along with rotors and seals on front axles. Im at 318K now so probably about due for rotors/pads so only second set - im going to do ball joints/rotors/pads this fall before DEC inspections

i get a lot of miles out of brakes on all my vehicles im an easy breaker and live 20 miles from town and most my towing is on interstate back/forth to farm or horse shows previous years. 

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Superduty calipers seize up on the equalizer pins more than anything. Then they don’t move back after application. The hoses need changed every 5-6 years as they swell on the inside and limit fluid flow. 

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On 7/8/2020 at 3:35 PM, B.B. said:

So I supposed to get the truck back from the shop tomorrow afternoon.  Nearly 4,300 dollars in repairs.   I had him fix everything while he was in there.  It's now studded, and he found some other things that needed fixed.  Water pump impellor was cracked for instance, and AC needed charged.  

 

I do plan to sell my 1997 GMC dually as I won't need it with this truck around.  

 

I'll update the post when I get it home and cleaned up, but I am hopeful to have a really nice truck come out of all this.  I just hope a clean 2006 F350 XL 4wd with 113K is worth 7,300 bucks.... :) I'll just need to keep it 7 years without any major repairs to feel like I got a "good deal"  🤪

 

 

If’n you don’t think it’s worth that, send me a PM, I’ll head down your way with cash in hand. 

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9 hours ago, B.B. said:

and get hot and smoke..... and smell...

It's not like i haven't had other vehicles have same issue and hopefully will be an easy fix. 

I'm going to have to see why the AC isn't blowing cold too.  He briefly stuck his gauges on it and thinks it may have a blockage somewhere?  I'll work on that when I get to cleaning it up. 

 

 

Pull the orifulice tube, it's over on the passenger side and where the high pressure line comes apart before going into the heater box.  100 bucks bet the accumulator desiccant baggie disintegrated.  Compressor grinds up the little bbs and the orifice catches them 

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35 minutes ago, Cdfarabaugh said:

Pull the orifulice tube, it's over on the passenger side and where the high pressure line comes apart before going into the heater box.  100 bucks bet the accumulator desiccant baggie disintegrated.  Compressor grinds up the little bbs and the orifice catches them 

i knew some guy that is way smarter than me would know what to do - im so thankful for all the people here that know this stuff - im just the guy thats dangerous enough to try and then stop when i get in over my head and send out a hail mary on here!!

6 hours ago, jass1660 said:

Superduty calipers seize up on the equalizer pins more than anything. Then they don’t move back after application. The hoses need changed every 5-6 years as they swell on the inside and limit fluid flow. 

thanks for teh tip on that, what is the symptom when this happens? sound like mine should have been changed 3x by now and looking at a 4th - hope my calipers dont lock up today which is likely since we have been talking about them 🤪

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Grease the **** out of those pins. I also fill the boots with grease when I install them on my 01. I’ve only replaced 1 caliper on mine and that was because I let my pads go a little long. Who would of thought those caliper pistons don’t wear very good when used as brakes. I’m not saying I do it better than everyone else. It’s been neglected for the 20 years I’ve owned it and now just use it to feed hay in winter

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And whatever you do, do not hang the caliper from the brake hose!!!!!!  Use a coathanger or bent welding rod as a hook.  I routinely replace the hoses on mine after being stuck far from home once.

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4 hours ago, searcyfarms said:

i knew some guy that is way smarter than me would know what to do - im so thankful for all the people here that know this stuff - im just the guy thats dangerous enough to try and then stop when i get in over my head and send out a hail mary on here!!

thanks for teh tip on that, what is the symptom when this happens? sound like mine should have been changed 3x by now and looking at a 4th - hope my calipers dont lock up today which is likely since we have been talking about them 🤪

Smoke rolling off the wheel and the lovely hot smell......

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5 hours ago, Cdfarabaugh said:

Pull the orifulice tube, it's over on the passenger side and where the high pressure line comes apart before going into the heater box.  100 bucks bet the accumulator desiccant baggie disintegrated.  Compressor grinds up the little bbs and the orifice catches them 

Good to know.  Where's the bag of BB's at so I can get that out too?  

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I'm glad you're happy with your truck and hope it works out great for you.

However your experience has not yet changed my opinion of these trucks as a money pit.

My first generation dodge Cummins are getting long in the tooth and need some  occasional maintenance but their total operating costs are low.

Thx-Ace 

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58 minutes ago, jass1660 said:

Smoke rolling off the wheel and the lovely hot smell......

i smell that at the dirt track races on fri/sat nights, either clutch or brakes or rear end grease - they are very identifiable - best part of it there, i dont have to fix it later LOL

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1 hour ago, B.B. said:

Good to know.  Where's the bag of BB's at so I can get that out too?  

You will have to change the reciever dryer and flush the whole system i believe.

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Yes the bb’s are the filter in the dryer. Take the system apart and flush it. Might need a new condenser if you can’t get it clean. 

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32 minutes ago, Tmtbob said:

Yes the bb’s are the filter in the dryer. Take the system apart and flush it. Might need a new condenser if you can’t get it clean. 

That's what I figured.  I can get all new parts from AP air pretty reasonably  

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