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TD9B torque converter trouble


TickyB
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My TD9B shuddered grated and stopped moving while doing some easy clearing work. After consulting the manual it looks as though the torque converter has sh.. itself.

i have begun stripping the machine down to get at the TC has anybody on here been thru this process?

 

 

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There are straps that bolt convertor to engine that will break. When you pull engine watch for shims under the front engine mount and get them back in there. Also check that the frame rails are not loose where bolts to rear both of these will cause the convertor to run out of round and break the drive straps.

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  • 2 weeks later...

   30 years ago,   our TD9 had the same straps break,    Needed the machine back on the job,  The fella helping us "knew" the engine needed to be removed,   the Removal was done in the field, another mistake,  Part way through the removal process,  the broken straps were observed,   the converter was removed from the TD9,  A quick work bench inspection of the converter housing and the bolt holes,  all was good!!  and the converter was quickly reinstalled,  Half a day later the TD9 was reassembled and ready to work.

The Oil drizzling out of the belly of the TD9,  where the converter is located, indicated that the "Backyard" mechanic that was over seeing the project,  Damaged the 35 year old oil seal on the converter hub,  (Luckily it only oil leaked oil when we used it!!!)

We continued to use the TD9,    constantly adding oil to the transmission,  till the Job was completed,  today the TD9 sits out side, needs a new home.

Jim Droscha

 

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It has been a long time but I don't think you can attach the straps to the converter without the engine removed.  Yes, the straps are in groups as you found and Louie's parts list shows.  Do you have the service manual?  If not, you will probably want to get one.  I would suggest replacing the seal at the back of the converter while apart also.  The straps need to be installed so that the engine is pulling the converter around with the straps, not pushing it, if that makes sense.  We always installed the converter with straps attached then installed the engine and bolted the straps to the flywheel.  Not sure how you will check alignment as there was a special tool with dial indicator for that.  Just do the best you can I guess.

I don't think heat or oil had anything to do with the failure.  Age, fatigue or misalignment probably the cause.  Good luck to you on your project.

Dennis

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9 hours ago, farmalldr said:

It has been a long time but I don't think you can attach the straps to the converter without the engine removed.  Yes, the straps are in groups as you found and Louie's parts list shows.  Do you have the service manual?  If not, you will probably want to get one.  I would suggest replacing the seal at the back of the converter while apart also.  The straps need to be installed so that the engine is pulling the converter around with the straps, not pushing it, if that makes sense.  We always installed the converter with straps attached then installed the engine and bolted the straps to the flywheel.  Not sure how you will check alignment as there was a special tool with dial indicator for that.  Just do the best you can I guess.

I don't think heat or oil had anything to do with the failure.  Age, fatigue or misalignment probably the cause.  Good luck to you on your project.

Dennis

X2      Probably old age, they are transmitting all the engine power to the torque converter.

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Age will break them or if out of alignment. Check and make sure the frame rails that the engine bolts to are tight at the trans and not moving up and down and make sure you get the shims back under the front engine mount wher sets on frame rails. If loose will have to install engine with convertor out and use dial indicator to check run out of engine to trans use shims under engine mount to frame rails to set runout.

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Binderbooks.com has one listed. They are very good quality reprints.

DWF

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Engine out of alignment the guy I bought it from had no idea what he was doing it was all apart in a shoe box when I got it haha make sure they are the right steel I had a machine shop make me some and they where just plain old mild steel I have a good source for the right straps if you need it

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Spring steel should be good as I’m pretty sure thats what the oem ones are the tool should be no problem any good machine shop should be able to handle it shims may or may not be ok if it where me I would use the tool but I also know the guy I got mine from had it apart 3 or 4 times for broken straps and he was not using the alignment tool I had to add shims to get it right because there was wear in other places check front engine support for excessive wear

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  • 2 months later...
On 3/13/2020 at 1:13 AM, louie figone said:

Number 3 in parts book, part number 338 078 R91 package of 12. Part number does not show up at FP Smith or on Google. You may have to make them.

IH TD9B torque converter.jpg

do you have a part number for the lower air filter? the number on mine is not legible.

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