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that is the reason for the hole in the stud first. then set your torch with not too wild of a flame and heat in centre of hole.  take about 30 sec. and that stud will be red hot. but don't be heating so much that block gets red. then go for coffee, let it sit for about 1/2 hr.- 1 hr. till its cold . try some candle wax on the threads once the red has gone away but still hot. good luck !

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Mike it’s going good and thanks for asking. Finishing up installing the electrical system and all new fuel lines this week. I will post an in depth update once I have all the basic “rustoration’ compl

Long time lurker-first time poster. Thank you in advance for any information you can share with me regarding this T9.  I found it on Craigslist and have been obsessed with this machine ever since

That’s not WD 40 but a 50%/50% mixture of diesel and used motor oil. We are next to the ocean and everything down here rusts quickly. I heard this mixture will help keep the rust from spreading since

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On 3/27/2020 at 11:49 AM, FatCharlie said:

Thanks for all the feedback and good info Fat Dan.

Yeah Rustred looking back I may have been a little aggressive. I sometimes leap before I look.  With the amount of dirt in there around the pistons I think I made the right call. Having said that, if I could go back in time I would leave it closed up and stick a power washer in there and take my chances. I just got a crash course in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" haha.

I drilled one of the bolts today. Went through four titanium coated bits and made a pretty nice 1/4 inch hole almost right down the center. I had the hole flanked by magnets to grab all the little bits. The stud wouldn't budge with the easy out and I couldn't get heat in the right spot due to my cheap propane torch and the remaining studs all in the way. My first priority was not to get anything stuck in the hole so I called it a day after an hour of overly cautious drilling. Went and bought a better torch and some cobalt bits on the way home. Also picked up a small metal chisel so hopefully I can coax them out (in pieces if necessary). I'll keep you posted. 

I found a rubber plug in the water pipe just above the water pump. It was intentionally blocked. Does that mean the pump is likely broken? Was he letting the water flow by spilling out of the upper radiator tank? I'm having trouble understanding how water would circulate well enough without the pump. Anyway I am going to pull the pump off and see if i can fix that too. Any comments appreciated. 

FatCharlie

..re those broken studs......those  " easy outs  " are not that good..on that type of operation..../..because they need to ''lock '' into ..in this case ...the broken stud...they sort of expand the stud...making it tighter.....In fact they are bloody worthless  things really

I would go buy a set of "left hand twist  " drills to do your holes.....because sometimes  those broken studs will 'spin ' right out , under pressure from a twist drill cutting into the grade 8 steel......Often  used that method......won't  work on a blind hole ..but works great on a threaded hole going right through  a casting..for example...Hence in your case . left hand twist would/could assist the project.....Heat that  broken remnant    though.....first...as the other blokes have said.....

Obviously   you need a reversible  drill...as most  are these days.....Harbour Frieght ...might have them...If you can buy them in New Zealand...you will find them in the US ..easily...:)

luck !!

Mike

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Thanks Larry. I truly appreciate you helping me out on the lights. 

Mike I have not had any luck with the first stud. I drilled a hole and applied pressure with a matching easy out. It doesn’t seem to be doing anything. I can see the top of the easy out twisting and I’m being gentle with it. I don’t think I could work up the nerve to put 160lbs of pressure on it. I picked up an acetylene torch today so I can put some real heat to it next time.  Hoping the RustRed method brings me home. I may try the left hand bits on the second bolt depending on how the first plays out. Thank you for the input. 

Now I realize if I end up pulling the engine other problems like this may come up. I’m hoping to keep the unit whole as much as possible now. Oh and I want to save the money a machine shop would charge me. I’m in a tight spot with these broken studs. 

 I’ll keep you posted. 

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Heat, cool, heat, cool, keep at it they will come out soon enough. Squirt some light oil down through the hole you drilled, let it work in there as well. Do you have enough of a rim left around the bolt to take chisel and get a bite on it so you can get it to turn if you tap it with a hammer? 

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I picked up an acetylene torch today so I can put some real heat to it next time.  Hoping the RustRed method brings me home. I may try  

as this is ...? not your normal setup?  did you bring the correct hoses and tips?vs propane/lpg

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Has a build date been determined yet?   Casting codes on transmissions/finals?  Its been my experience that dealers repainted machines when they were offered in later year used market. good luck with ur project.

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MMI yes i have the right equipment now and the basics of how to use it. They don’t give those cutting torches away ($$$). Grabbed some scrap to practice on so I don’t burn a hole in the block next?. And yes I bought some safety gear. I took on this project with no mechanical background so i am learning techniques and acquiring tools as I go. 

T4 thanks It hasn’t really been determined whats going on with all the different parts. I will try and get the casting codes you mention and post them. I’m sure it was easier for the dealers to sell a nicely painted machine.  

This tag was under some dirt on the head. Does anyone know what it indicates?

 

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22 hours ago, RBootsMI said:

Heat, cool, heat, cool, keep at it they will come out soon enough. Squirt some light oil down through the hole you drilled, let it work in there as well. Do you have enough of a rim left around the bolt to take chisel and get a bite on it so you can get it to turn if you tap it with a hammer? 

Boots-This is what the hole looks like and I bought a couple of chisels for that. I haven’t tried it yet but I think I have enough of a lip to give it a go. Thanks

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things can happen  we have several sets across the farms when new they are marked later not so much,

at one time tips got mixed  they burn out,would not be good on your project,

and have heard from others that hoses started to leak with wrong contents,fine until sparks fly....we use arrestors on both ends

be safe

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update:

With Turkey hunting a planting in full swing I have not been able to spend as much time  on the T9 as I would like considering I’m not really working right now. I couldn’t get the studs out despite a ton of heat, chisels, easy-outs etc. I ended up drilling them out and retapping and got the new studs in. The head is back on and torqued down!! I rebuilt the starter, carb and put in a new thermostat. Tried to fire it up but the carb was leaking out (stuck float?) and I wasn’t getting spark with my new wires and plugs. I am hoping to go up tonight and throw in a new condenser, points and distributor cap. Hopefully I can get some spark and fire it up soon. I’ll keep you posted. Hope everyone is safe and sound at that this thing will be over soon. 

Larry I got the lights and they are great. Hoping to find some new lens’ and make three good one out of the four I have. Thank you!

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Charlie,

I had missed this because I am usually over in the construction section. Your getting the right folks over in this section to help you. I give you a pat on the back for getting the broken bolts drilled and re-tapped. For not having much experience you sure are getting after it. If it has gas, spark and compression it will run. Maybe not good but it should fire! My TD6 a cousin to your tractor has given me many new learning experiences too. Wishin you the best with your new toy!

 Regards,

 Chris

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Man I missed this thread as im usually lurking in the construction section, nice work on the T9. Some of your questions could be answered by going to that section and looking at some of the projects other members have done.  I know my self and Sugarmaker have pretty long threads detailing tear downs and rebuilding of our perspective T6's.  While not the exact same model they are the same family.

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Hey all thanks for the comments.

I got spark on all 4 plugs and even had some smoke coming out of the stack the other night trying to start it up. I think the smoke was from the copious amounts of carb-start I was reluctantly spraying in my over exuberance to hear that engine run. I got the feeling my timing was off  and I couldn't get so much as a pop out of the engine. I had a weak stream of blackish grey smoke seeping out of the exhaust.There was good air suction going into the carb which seems like good news but much weaker flow coming from the exhaust. Maybe I have the exhaust valves opening when it should be the intakes? I probably need to buy a gauge and check the compression too. 

Anyway I hooked up a 12v battery to get the starter humming a little faster to see if that helped. The 6V battery was really turning slow but I guess with the low RPM rating on this engine that is normal? Anyway after a few minutes the carb started leaking again. Unfortunately I had to leave and get home to the family before my wife changed the locks. I am planning to go up Saturday and start over with the carburetor.

Rust i didn't remove the valves but I cleaned the combustion chambers and had it looking pretty good on the surface (except for two small hairline cracks in the corners of the 2 and 3 chambers uggh). I am thinking of taking the head to a machinist to see about the cracks and have the valves, seats and guides addressed by a pro. 

Rust I saw in another T series post where it was mentioned sliding that thermostat in the opposite way than the arrow indicates. I did that and was glad because it didn't fit the other way. I ordered the part that claimed to be the replacement for 37634 D. There was no old one in the housing and all that was left was a brass frame from some long removed stat. I cut that out and the new one slid in there perfectly. I was pretty excited to have something (anything) completed despite the whole backwards part. Any thoughts on what to do since it won't go in correctly? Anyone know a good replacement number for the original stats?

Suger and Tanker I have read your posts in full more than a few times. I sure do appreciate you looking in on this project.

Side note: I was a little surprised to find a bunch of the new parts that I bought didn't really work that well. Two of my "new" spark plug wires were severed at the boot, the new float pin for my carb was sticking, the stat didn't fit except for upside down and the new condenser for the Mag was too short without some creative engineering. I guess they don't make 'em like the use to? Is that typical when buying parts off the big name sites? FYI-I have kept every single part that has come off the T9 including the old radiator hoses, starter brushes, broken studs, carburetor parts, plug and plug wires etc. I plan to go back later and re-install the old parts that still work in an attempt to keep this machine "as found". Based on what I have seen the new stuff is substandard. 

Hopefully I can get that engine started this weekend. I am anxious to get into the radiator and steering clutches and find out what I have in store.  

I'll keep you posted. 

Thanks 

FatCharlie

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typical of the "new" parts  we swap in out verify as many as possible to running tractor

sounds as weak spark under load  ,clean clean clean verify every piece, using no choke and high test dump 1 -1,1/2 tbs down intake with 12v ,but points coil should be 6v powered and correctly wired needs to match bat to gnd or resistor inline  

not champion plugs dependant on the gas formula of your state

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do a compression check on it when cranking it. that will tell your story on the valves. u skipped the most major part by not removing them to inspect them to make sure they are seating. plus clean and lube the guides. got to have the seats clean to seal. never know it might have needed machine shop work anyhow once you had it apart. I just finished my dc4 case . from sitting a big pile of years . had stuck valves. removed everything and cleaned everything with a light lap the reseat the valves as they were still ok. used same head gasket also and she starts and runs like a champ. very nice original tractor. if the compression is low you may need to pull it to get it to start , and the valves may seat them selves. don't see how timing can be out if it was running when parked. plus need to check and clean the points and actually check the timing before even trying to start it. but as now you are shooting in the dark.

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I'm not criticizing your knowledge, but are you sure you have the wires in the right order in the cap and or on the plugs relative to which way the rotor turns? If you have the number one piston all the way up, and have the valve cover off, and the pushrods on #1 cylinder are both loose, you've got it at #1 tdc.  Then take the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing, hopefully it's off, that way you can correct it and it takes off for you. I've messed up firing order based on rotation before, we all do it. Maybe that's all it is?

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the T9/W9 engines along with the diesel engines the distributor turns counter clockwise.  plus are the valves set to .017?  that engine will start on the 3rd crank with a 6 volt battery when carb and spark is correct. if your cranking and cranking your wasting your time . there is something not set to specification.

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https://youtu.be/jjV_G9uVxIo

Fired it up!!

Turns out the points adjusting screw inside the magneto was stripped out at the bottom of the hole and was popping loose as soon as the points moved. I was able to add a washer so the screw could grab threads further up the hole and that put the spark issue to bed for now. I took apart the carb for the fourth time due to the new fuel needle sticking. I ended up putting in the old seat with the new needle and the carb seems to work okay but needs more attention. 

I am trying to attach a video of the first engine start. I had several popping sounds before it cranked so I decided to throw my phone up and try and get it on video in the off chance it started. When it fired up I was caught off guard and didn’t disconnect the starter at first haha.

Man that thing was blowing some thick black smoke and there was bits of debris and junk flying everywhere at first. To hear that engine has made all the hard work worth it. What an awesome sound!

There appeared to be a bunch of smoke coming up from the pushrod holes. Any ideas on what that is? Is the black smoke from the exhaust due to a lean or rich condition?

Thanks for all the input so far!

Ill keep you posted.

 

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I finally have the carburetor issues worked out and it runs really nice. It shows strong oil pressure on the gauge. I filled up the radiator and let it heat up a couple of times. Re-torqued the head bolts to 165ft/lbs and then greased up all the fittings. I decided to throw the old girl in gear and next thing I knew I was driving it. Awesome feeling to have it running. I drove off and banked right and felt the engine go under load but no turn. Turns out the T9 turns left great but the other brake is weak/loose and that steering clutch is also locked up. I think I may be able to pop it loose once I tighten up the brakes but we will see. I might try the “back into a tree” trick also. 

Good news is the radiator doesn’t leak. I found a NOS top rad hose and it didn’t leak a drop but the other two hoses need replacing and leaked steadily. I don’t want to remove the radiator until I have a good reason so I was really glad it held water. I have flushed it out twice but the water keeps coming out Brown. I’m going to flush it a couple more times. Any suggestions on cleaning agent for the radiator? Is hard water really bad for the engine? Should I lug up 16 gallons of tap water next time?

I reinstalled the air cleaner, bonnet, muffler and valve cover. I drove it over to a hose bib with hot water and gave it a good hot power washing (added a couple pix cause it finally looked all put together haha)

Things left to complete:

Drop oil pan and clean it out and new seal. flush out the radiator and replace hoses. Check water pump. Give the brakes and clutches some going over and check for blown seals. Replace all the transmission fluid. Full electrical with lights and generator. Re-cover the seat. Also starting to look at the belt pulley attachment and what that might take to get hooked up (that cleaned up nice and turned out to be red).

I hope to have it in the field planting the June dove fields. Will start on the backend this weekend and see where I stand on that dreaded steering clutch. 

I’ll keep you posted

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