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TD-6 cracked head & rear seal advice needed


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So I need some advice from someone with way more experienced then me.  I have an I/H TD-6 that has a cracked head.  I found a place that will furnace weld it here in Minnesota. They said it would run around $1,250 to get it ready to drop back on.   I also discovered that the rear crank seal is leaking.  So my question is this.  How hard is it to remove and reinstall the head on these things?  I have experience with smaller two stroke engines but have yet to attack something like this.  I do have all the original books so I'm good there.  Removing things is easy as you all know.  It's putting them back together. 

I imagine I need to pull the engine in order to replace the rear crank seals.  How much of a pain is this?  I have read through the repair books so I know what I'm getting myself into.  I just need some feedback of what you guys think.  How long does it usually take to remove the engine and put it back in.  Are there any special tools I need for the rear seal?  It doesn't look like it according to the books but I thought I'd ask.  Thanks in advance and I look forward to your advice.

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Greatt that u asked

 I finally got a chance to pull the td6 head, didn't clearly see anyy cracks in it though.

And

the gasket was not seated well at all at that time. It used to come off way to easily. But anyways we are gonna have the head checked, found one little hole that I don't think was factory at one of the water jacket holes.

i just looked up google and ended up at the website reliable-store for online manuals.. it was rally really easy to find this problem discussed there and solve it quickly 

have u tried youtube too? i didn't compare but i suggest u can visit youtube first and then get manual when need is felt

chilton is way too expensive so i cared not to mention

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I haven't had a chance to search youtube to see if anyone has uploaded a video on pulling the engine.  I will take a look this week.  I was hoping someone would chime in here and give me their advice.  Maybe someone yet will.  

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Gras, get this manual, it has all the info you need for pulling the engine, cooling system, electrical, engine clutch, steering clutches, brakes etc, this book covers it all, they come up on Ebay once in a while.

IH TD6 chassis service manual.jpg

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Hey Louie.  I do have the original service and parts manual for this TD6.  Came with it when my dad got it.  So that's not an issue.  My main question is how hard is it to pull the engine?  I have read through the manual already but I just would like a little feedback.  I will surely have to do this in stages as the machine sits at my cabin which is 300 miles away.  Plus most of the work will be done by me.  I do have a John Deere 60 with a loader on it to pull the engine.  Hopefully that's enough.  Do you think $1250 or there about's is a fair price to furnace weld this beast.  I'm not too experience with these bigger machinery items.  Mainly outboard motors and vintage sleds.  So any feedback would be appreciated.  

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I am going to try post a link to KOO's website that has a topic on converting TD6's to T6's and how easy that ended up working out...not, in one picture it shows the rear seal well so you get an idea of what that job looks like, I think it is doable in the tractor but I'm sure it ain't easy, your butt is the highest altitude, the flywheel doesn't come out through the hole and he had some tips on felt to use for the seal. 

$1250 sounds kinda high for repair, that said not many working on this stuff anymore, you might want to look for a good WD6 head, of course half of them will be cracked...if your doing both jobs it could be easier pulling engine

https://www.kingofobsolete.ca/International_TD-6_motor_change_T-6_WEBPAGE.html

 

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…..you can't beat   Magic Mickey's   lock and stitch method...in my humble opinion...….It is slow...but methodical  and ultimately possibly the best cure for those crack (ed)    heads......

...I saw first hand his achievements with TD9 heads

Mike

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Gras, I had two D282 heads repaired by American Cylinder Head in Oakland CA, they were $1600 each. To do it right is not cheap. Pulling the engine is not hard, you need the right tools and time, it will be much easier if the tractor is on a pad. Working in the dirt sucks.

Louie

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Yeah I'm not a big fan of working in the dirt either.  I want to do this right so I will take my time and work on it when I can.  Hey, if it takes a couple of years no big deal.  Better right then not.  Thanks for the feedback guys.  As soon as I start the major project I'll start posting some pictures.   I'm sure I'll have lots of questions.

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Forgot to say it might be hard to find the proper head gasket, KOO used to spray his with aluminum paint or aviation gasket goo

Also I'll assume these use fire rings like the other gas diesels, they require specific attention or annealing depending on type

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Gras, the seal can be replaced by sliding the motor ahead after removing the front spring and tipping the flywheel bac after removing the clutch assy. Much easier if the motor has to come out. There are 2 seal types, one felt and the other is a neoprene lip seal, with a corresponding crankshaft.

 The head gasket comes in 2 styles, seating on top of the sleeve or around the sleeve protrusion. No fire ring on this model.

mike

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Thanks Mike.  That is very helpful information.  Maybe I'll try replacing the seal without lifting the motor out first.  If I have to I can always pull it out. I'll check out the gasket and make sure I get the right one.  I believe Steiner Tractor carries them.

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On 2/19/2020 at 7:24 PM, magicmikey said:

Gras, the seal can be replaced by sliding the motor ahead after removing the front spring and tipping the flywheel bac after removing the clutch assy. Much easier if the motor has to come out. There are 2 seal types, one felt and the other is a neoprene lip seal, with a corresponding crankshaft.

 The head gasket comes in 2 styles, seating on top of the sleeve or around the sleeve protrusion. No fire ring on this model.

mike

Hullo Magicmikey:)...noticed you chose not to comment on the "lock  an'   Stitch "    head repair method...!!!...even after my ringing endorsement  of that fix !!

Hope you are OK

Regards  Mike

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G' day Mike

  I assumed Gras was set on the welding.🙄   L&S is pricey if only doing one crack as the first step is a " kit" with an assortment of  pins. Still the best way to go imho.

  Life is good------but slower.

mike

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The addy is " locknstitch.com" for video and kits.  It is a 3 step process to complete the repair, it won"t crack in that area anymore as the stress is removed.

mike

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