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I WANT A PULLING TRACTOR


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9 hours ago, billonthefarm said:

I started out on one of dads farm tractors over 30 years ago. Pulled in dyno classes for a few years.  Pulled antiques for a few years then for a few years I watched and didnt pull.  About 6 years ago a friend asked me to bring one of my tractors and support the local pull they were trying to get going.  I didnt give it much thought but it only took one hook.  I built this and having the time of my life with some great friends.

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turn it up much more ur gonna need water thats gettn pretty red on a tall stack 😉

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regarding the garden tractor pullers - there are a lotta dads/kids/families that pull, one guy brings 5 tractors n kids all do it - our neighbor has 3, all fords he has rigged up - one he uses strictly in the open class like 1200lbs or something - i dont think they have a speed max either, he stretched the frame a lil and put a 30hp briggs twin on it, i think they have tire, weight and max hp of 30ish hp engines 

the guy that owns the sled has a couple he runs with them at the shows - they use his sled at the MO State fair also for the garden tractor pulls

maybe some day i can do it but i just dont ahve the time and their pulls are all a couple hours away which makes it even more difficult - i have a friend that has a 582 or 682 cant remember its the slant hood like my 5088 and a manual not the hydro version i think a small vtwin maybe i drove it once but cant remember

dad and the neighbor cuts their tires - they use the carlisle super lugs - dads 80, hes never pulled on it, he got it for the gkids to do - they have some kind of slide under the belly that extends for front weights and some that hang under the center adn some on the back most of the weight is in front of the rear axle - they run around 6lbs to 8lbs air pressure 

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1 hour ago, searcyfarms said:

turn it up much more ur gonna need water thats gettn pretty red on a tall stack 😉

Put MORE fuel on it and it will put that fire out.   Lots more to working within your means and or rules     just sayin

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23 hours ago, Killer Red Mater said:

Put MORE fuel on it and it will put that fire out.   Lots more to working within your means and or rules     just sayin

😎

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found it!!!

maybe u wanna get into this - low budget - u can run up to a 3cyl diesel and any kind of non alcohol fuel 

8 bucks per pull on the sled

650lbs for 13y/o and under only

 

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my neighbor on one of his fords

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another one of my neighbor 

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i like this tractor image.thumb.png.cecf291e8aff4f4409a4848faf546843.png

neighbor on his vtwin he built last yr to go with his other two

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my dads cub with my nephew

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I run a SM, first motor  281 just [put thin sleeves in SM  block, carb work LP head ran 65 hp. Worked great in Div 2 classes at 3 mph. Wanted more power for jack pot classes and had a Marlatt engine 360 cu, ran 95 to 100 hp. Every 6 or 7 years you need to update to have a chance to win.  I allways ran 2 nd gear 4500 lbs to 6000 lbs. dead weight and running pulls. About 3 years ago went to a bigger motor to run 5 mph classes, it will handle 3 rd gear unless you  run 18.4 38's . Started pulling in the late 1950's and still enjoy the hobby.

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On 1/28/2020 at 12:14 PM, searcyfarms said:

88s are like 560s gotta keep them wound up, i presume u guys have to pull with speed limits?  I there are ways around the wind up issue I've heard it done , it’s all physics , just have design a solution. 👍🏻

we had a neighbor that pulled MMs he did VERY well with his all over/state fair etc........he had a couple gassers and one diesel 

 

 

 

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Think the Safemarks sold around here were 8 ply or better, now they are old and hard.  For some reason those big huge wide lugs work well, in the field they are junk.  

560 doesn't have as much of a issue as a 88, because of the TA.................Oliver had that what was it called? Power Booster?  But never seen one around here with it.  With all that said though, most guys here can't run a TA and it hurts them, either they pull to early and break the tires loose, or wait until the engine has about flat lined and it doesn't help anyhow.  You can tell the guys who run the tractors in the field either now or in the past, they pull the stick and its just seemless.  

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A buddy of mine has an 'H' that he wants to sell, It's a strong runner, has cut tires and other goodies. Need to get serious and get that one home. Have thought about building one but this would save tons of time I don't seem to have enough of these days. Probably quite a bit cheaper in the long run too.

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I have a 1066 that would make a great puller.     No fenders, seat, wheels, and I want to keep the pto and lift arms.  Also has a stuck engine.  All the parts you dont need are already gone. 😉

Ps  I would let it go for about .05% of that one in coffee shop. Lol.  

Edited by dannyredfan
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Do your pulls have an actual "farmstock" class or are they all modified? If you have an honest farmstock class a good stock M will compete. Will even place high or win consistantly if it has M&W or firecrater pistons. A lot of them do from getting overhauled during their service life. We competed for years and won regularly in 5500 and 5000 with a '47 M with weights over the axles and bolt on rear wheel weights. Nowdays its a lot tougher. Its tough to find unmodified tractors to pull against.

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Thanks to all that replied . where im from they a have what they call a out of field class or farm stock,  speed limited.  That's the class  i want to play in. 

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I got the classes information to move into antique 1958 - 

Be in classes 
Briefly 

Safety checks ,  for kill switch operational. 

1. I would submit tractor to techs at pull ,they will put it on Dyno to determine hp for class . 
2. I would weigh it . For class 
3. I would get rpm test but no more than 20 percent . 
4 if I win the tractor goes to dyno for verification 
that about the sums it up ,I got so far ,Seems fair to me !  I may have a chance with the Farmall C .

4 mph 
35 hp 2750 lbs

35 hp 3000lbs

35 hp 3500lbs  

35 hp 4000 
which class do you think the C will make best to start out ?

 

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3 hours ago, 560Dennis said:

I got the classes information to move into antique 1958 - 

Be in classes 
Briefly 

Safety checks ,  for kill switch operational. 

1. I would submit tractor to techs at pull ,they will put it on Dyno to determine hp for class . 
2. I would weigh it . For class 
3. I would get rpm test but no more than 20 percent . 
4 if I win the tractor goes to dyno for verification 
that about the sums it up ,I got so far ,Seems fair to me !  I may have a chance with the Farmall C .

4 mph 
35 hp 2750 lbs

35 hp 3000lbs

35 hp 3500lbs  

35 hp 4000 
which class do you think the C will make best to start out ?

 

Seems pretty technical for a antique pull????  Here for a C all that would be worried about is proper weight, drawbar height, and RPM's looked at if sounding suspicious(Reason for my liking of baffled mufflers)..............with that said, the speed limit hurts even if your over on rpms although 4 mph is more doable than 3 here.  

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On 2/1/2020 at 4:41 PM, TP from Central PA said:

Seems pretty technical for a antique pull????  Here for a C all that would be worried about is proper weight, drawbar height, and RPM's looked at if sounding suspicious(Reason for my liking of baffled mufflers)..............with that said, the speed limit hurts even if your over on rpms although 4 mph is more doable than 3 here.  

Everywhere you go you got to adapt , so it’s a start , I’ll figure it out ,thats the fun of it 

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