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andym

? 1086 Govenor not kicking in right ? Low power

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Hello, I was going to see if I could get some opinions on my 1086 IH.  It's a Late 1086 I believe 1982 model. 3,6xx original hours. Bought from original owner that seemed to take good care of his equipment. This is my first 1086 I've operated. The problem is it seems like the governor is not kicking in ? It seems sluggish to me for what it is, when I clip pasture with my 15ft brush hog it drops RPMs quite a bit going up hills and never seems to fuel or puff any smoke when it loads the engine ? My last 685 case Ih seemed to have a quick strong governor ? I did not know what the nature of the 1086 is if that's normal with out driving others. Any info is greatly appreciated. 

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Also when I bought it, I serviced it. I put all new filters and fluids using case IH filters. It starts easy and revs good and had good fuel flow to fuel filters, but when loaded it seems to lose more rpms than I would think is normal to me ?  It also seems sluggish feeding hay or somewhat lower rpm taking off and stuff.  Someone mentioned adjusting the droop screw in the injection pump ? I would like to get opinions about the droop screw.    Thank you 

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I'm thinking your pump govenor isnt working , I had that happen on my 1086 once and took it to a Injector pump shop and it needed a new govenor and head and rotor assembly made a new tractor out of it 

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how long have you had it, how much had it sat before you got it and since you have been using it? does it seem to get lower and lower on power if you pull it hard for any length of time like a long hill when mowing or if you were on a disk does it get slower and slower and slower till u have to downshift? 

it sounds like its starving for fuel - i dont know anything about the filter setup on a 1086 or the return fuel line but somethings not right, i dont think a 685 would hold a candle to even a worn out 1086 and yours isnt so definitely a fuel issue. 

slime/algae are your worth enemy for sitting around, fuel conditioners such as power service or howes will not prevent it so if you or your previous owner have let it sit a lot with fuel in the tank OR your local fuel supplier has algae in their system and you got some of that welcome to the world of ULSD and BIO fuel. Myself and several neighbors get our off road fuel at a local supplier and well............we all got a taste of bad fuel, it was a torment to deal with and many fuel filters, algae treatment, draining tank on two tractors, all of us finally got through the madness. We now get our fuel at a different location. My buddy uses old 5 gallon hydraulic bucket for his fuel cans and we were seeing slime in the bottom of them and our old twist lock metal funnel we put in the tank to fill with would even clog the screen when trying to pour it in the tractors, thats how we actually figured it out and we would see slime in the bottom of the bucket after pouring in fuel and couldnt figure out what the heck it was. Its like snot right out of your nose if you havent seen it, clear/stringly slimy and takes on the color of the fuel so if you are using the ulsd on road fuel its kind of clear/yellow/greenish etc.......if you see little black specs or black chunks/pieces like the inside of a hose is breaking down its algae 

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Your going to have to find somebody that knows these tractors. Nothing gutless about a 1086 to me. Just the opposite actually. 

You've already done the easy stuff. Next steps get expensive quick. Find an ih guy. It SOUNDS like pump needs work but obviously we cant drive it. Sure hate to cost you a grand or more just cuz we thought it was something. Access to a dyno? Me either. 

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I bought a '80 1086 about a year ago and I'm having the same exact issue.  Tractor starts and runs great.  Hard to start out in H2 and I get zero black smoke under a load.  I own a 1066 also and I can rev engine up in neutral and get black smoke, let alone under a load working or going up a hill.  Ran a 15' bush hog last week and it sure bogs tractor way down.  Figured it was in pump, but curious as to what everyone else on here thinks.  All new filters, very little blow by and all around good running machine....Just gutless.

Happy New Year!

Jared

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First thing to do on a turbo diesel when diagnosing low power. 
Put a pressure gauge  in the intake manifold, to check boost pressure. No smoke, no boost, = no fuel. Load it in road gear with the brakes if you can't take it to the field and work it. Should get 10-15 psi, depending how much load you are able to apply.

Adjusting the droop screw can help with the low rpm laziness these model 100 pumps are kinda known for. When the hyd head in the pump gets worn, it does make them lazy, and sluggish at lower rpms, but generally they get harder to start, especially when hot.

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1 minute ago, Injpumped said:

First thing to do on a turbo diesel when diagnosing low power. 
Put a pressure gauge  in the intake manifold, to check boost pressure. No smoke, no boost, = no fuel. Load it in road gear with the brakes if you can't take it to the field and work it. Should get 10-15 psi, depending how much load you are able to apply.

Adjusting the droop screw can help with the low rpm laziness these model 100 pumps are kinda known for. When the hyd head in the pump gets worn, it does make them lazy, and sluggish at lower rpms, but generally they get harder to start, especially when hot.

A bad or dragging turbo makes a diesel smoke more not less and when a turbo fails you'll know it and he's referring to higher rpm use and not enough power since he's checked or replaced filters good chance the pump needs work

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22 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

A bad or dragging turbo makes a diesel smoke more not less and when a turbo fails you'll know it and he's referring to higher rpm use and not enough power since he's checked or replaced filters good chance the pump needs work

If the pumps not putting out enough fuel you wont get any smoke, and no boost.

Our 5088 is the same way, total dog, zero smoke. But it's got 8900 hours. I'm sure it needs a pump rebuild because if you stall it hot, it's hard to start.

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Long shot but is there any evidence that the return line from the injector pump has been changed? If I'm recalling my IH-fu lessons correctly, if a generic hydraulic or fuel hose is used, the tractor will not run correctly.

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A generic hydraulic line between filter and pump can cause problems.

Sounds to me like his pump is shot, there's plenty of stories just like his and a fresh pump solved the problem. 

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2 minutes ago, brahamfireman said:

A generic hydraulic line between filter and pump can cause problems.

Sounds to me like his pump is shot, there's plenty of stories just like his and a fresh pump solved the problem. 

It's an $1800 guess, though.

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29 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

It's an $1800 guess, though.

usually not that high unless the whole pump is shot or someone is gouging you in the be-hind  ,rebuilding  a pump like that cost me 800.00 pump and nozzles

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Low fuel pressure will make it a dog.  Simple to put a gauge in and check fuel pressure.  Could be as simple as broken spring in regulator valve, wrong hose from filter to pump or as bad as governor shot.  

The whole design of that walking beam governor linkage inside the pump is to prevent that huge cloud of smoke when going from low speed to high speed yet giving good governor response at higher rpm's and loads.   Over fueling and eleminating the droop screw can help the low end governor response but defeats the purpose built into the pump.

Notice the roosa master pump engines that let out a cloud when hitting the throttle.  

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2 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

A bad or dragging turbo makes a diesel smoke more not less and when a turbo fails you'll know it and he's referring to higher rpm use and not enough power since he's checked or replaced filters good chance the pump needs work

I didn't say anything about a bad turbo. It takes fuel to make boost, hence my statement about no smoke or boost, means short on fuel delivery. But hey, what do I know lol! Happy new year everyone!

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1 hour ago, Injpumped said:

I didn't say anything about a bad turbo. It takes fuel to make boost, hence my statement about no smoke or boost, means short on fuel delivery. But hey, what do I know lol! Happy new year everyone!

I think your first advice was pretty spot on. Keep posting about what it takes to fix the pumps. Speaking of bad turbos. A connecting rod went bad on dads 966. So he got a 466 out of a 1480 that burnt. We switched everything around but left turbo on because he had turboed other engine. Dad always had to have a straight pipe on everything. About a week after getting engine swapped and running. He was tearing down road pushing snow with loader on 966 the exhaust impeller broke off and flew out pipe. Tractor salvage place gave him a turbo to fix it.

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2 hours ago, pete23 said:

Notice the roosa master pump engines that let out a cloud when hitting the throttle.  

I kinda like the smoke, it helps me know my engines still running with my bad ears and eyes and they just keep getting worse with age.........bring on the roosa masters 

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Well I had same results out of two different tractors.One was a 966, NEVER called for fuel used it that way for years just planted corn,hauled manure,light duty.I never messed with it,just used that way because I had plenty of tractors.One day it just shut off,head and rotor were wore out,had pump rebulit,like a new tractor.Other one was a Hydro70 .I used it hard round baling need HP for hills,it would just die,no smoke.I popped cap on fuel pump,turned pump up like two turns and made a huge difference.I bought it 2nd hand and lead seal was off pump.I think some one was screwing around in there turning it up and down and just set it back to far.I kept it that way now for 10 yrs.Been great.Check your pump.

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brings me to wonder...............our 436B in 5088, new SRC reman motor with only 100 hours on it, installed by dealer, presuming used pump off old engine - it starts easy in this cold weather, started it with nothing but a flip of the switch but i have noticed if you throw teh throttle forward or load the engine it will put out a pretty good stream of dark smoke, although nothing like my 560s did. It does seem a little anemic pulling out of a corner if you throttle down at the end of teh field adn then throttle back up, its a little sluggish - not horrible but if you drop the implement in the ground before u reach for the throttle its really noticeable - sounds liek the nature of these type pumps on these larger ih engines 

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Yes I am thinking the pump is starting to get weak my self. I will check the fuel lines next chance I get. The tractor was used very few hours a year the last few years the original owner said. He was a elderly man that had to give up farming. I have owned it about a 1 1/2 years but have noticed it being sluggish from day one, once I got it home and got to use it some. I know letting equipment sit is hard on them. I will double check the normal checks again, but I am afraid it will be going to the injection shop soon. Thank you for the responses. 

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There can be fuel restrictions in other places besides the fuel filters. Get one of those new handy-dandy super bright led flashlights and look in the fuel tank. { drain the tank first ]. Look for rust flakes in the tank and covering the fuel ports. If there is lots of rust in the tank it might have migrated into the fuel line. Take the fuel line from the tank to the filter off and blow compressed air through it. Blow air through the fuel valve while you have the line off. Take the primary filter off and blow air into where the fuel line hooks up. 

Also make sure the fuel valve works or is at least open. The valve should turn and you can tell the stem gets shorter as you tighten it. The fully open position is backed out all the way and back seated.

good luck and post some pictures.

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You probably don’t need my similar story, but here it is...

We were renting an ugly 986 from the local dealer.  It was very low houred but had sat quite a bit.  After renting it for 15 years or so we bought it.  The tach read just over 2800 hrs.  It always was doggy, and we would drive 2 miles out of the way just to avoid a couple hills on the road.  Never complained because we might only put 50 hours on in a year....didn’t want them to just take it back instead of fixing it.

After we bought it, I cut the seal wire off the top and gave the fuel screw just under a turn.  It became a whole new tractor.  Still doesn’t smoke more than a wisp, but can climb hills and won’t kill letting out the clutch.

 I don’t know if that slight adjustment unstuck something, or got some plunger device past a bad/worn spot.

Try the fuel screw if you haven’t, it made me look like the Mother Teresa of tractors to the rest of the guys on the farm.  It won’t cost anything to try and won’t do anything if the pump is bad.

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