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Rusty shackleford

544 3 point swap ?

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I'm putting the 656 3 point on this 544, was wondering, I never use the draft control and I dont think it even worked on the 656, can I hook it up without installing the draft control from top to bottom? I know the best is to do everything right and make everything work but this will only be used for things like raking hay and what not, plus then I wouldn't have to take pto out ether, just saving money everywhere I can15771223908287711593056081344630.thumb.jpg.5b21c6c964c291b9134cd3d84ae9891e.jpg1577122357074129163997755698429.thumb.jpg.d89822f8bf877d8246430985fcbc8729.jpg

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I still think that as far as you have them torn down, I would swap the rear ends.  Just pull the tires/rims/cast off the 544. Unbolt both transmission assemblies and swap.

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Without the draft linkages installed, I'm pretty sure one of two things will happen:

1. You will have nothing but position control.
2. You will have absolutely zero position control.

As I recall from working on Dad's 656, there's a paddle thingamabob sticking down from the rockshaft housing up top, and a lever thingamabob on the torsion shaft down below sticking up. As the 3pt arms get tugged on the torsion shaft turns slightly, causing the lever to push in the paddle sending the draft signal up to the 3pt.

There was a doohickey busted up in the rockshaft housing on Dads causing it to raise up and stay there as I recall. 

Doohickey and thingamabob are technical terms, of course.

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45 minutes ago, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

I still think that as far as you have them torn down, I would swap the rear ends.  Just pull the tires/rims/cast off the 544. Unbolt both transmission assemblies and swap.

The 656 has bad brakes, and also I dont have a loader or concrete to work on so rolling stuff around is a bit difficult,  and its actually not as hard as I thought of a swap thank thought it would be. Also everyth ok my leaks ok n 656 so if I swapped rear ends it would need to come apart anyway

 

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16 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Without the draft linkages installed, I'm pretty sure one of two things will happen:

1. You will have nothing but position control.
2. You will have absolutely zero position control.

As I recall from working on Dad's 656, there's a paddle thingamabob sticking down from the rockshaft housing up top, and a lever thingamabob on the torsion shaft down below sticking up. As the 3pt arms get tugged on the torsion shaft turns slightly, causing the lever to push in the paddle sending the draft signal up to the 3pt.

There was a doohickey busted up in the rockshaft housing on Dads causing it to raise up and stay there as I recall. 

Doohickey and thingamabob are technical terms, of course.

I know for a fact that those are the correct terms, another reason I am asking is I have all the bottom parts already from another project except the ol ne doohickey and if possible it would be great if I didnt have to take apart the whole bottom of the 656 just for the one part if it's not needed

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4 hours ago, Rusty shackleford said:

I know for a fact that those are the correct terms, another reason I am asking is I have all the bottom parts already from another project except the ol ne doohickey and if possible it would be great if I didnt have to take apart the whole bottom of the 656 just for the one part if it's not needed

I wonder if you could work through the top hole to get it out.

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25 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

I wonder if you could work through the top hole to get it 

I dont think so, I spose I will have to go through  the work and money and do it the right way. 

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Twenty years from now you'll be glad you did.

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Swap the whole top cover, dont bother trying to swap linkages over. At least that has been the preferred method here. Then swap hydraulic valves etc if neccessary.

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You can eleminate the draft control. Leave the arm coming up from torsion tube off, remove  the heavy spring up above that pulls the linkage forward against the lower link along with the  short link.     You of course need all the other lower parts to torsion bar for lower arms. Also , tighten the adjustable bolts on lower link tight up against rear housing so torsion bar no longer twists when pulling a load.  

I have never done this on a 544  but did to large frame tractors rather than rebuild the worn linkages as draft control can be a pain when negative draft loads like pushing a snowblower.  

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12 hours ago, Super A_sepa said:

Swap the whole top cover, dont bother trying to swap linkages over. At least that has been the preferred method here. Then swap hydraulic valves etc if neccessary.

That's what I'm doing top is being swapped all at once

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