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Jeff-C-IL

Front Axle "fun"

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Its NOT moving....  not a single mm! 

10T portapower on the top...maxed out.   20 ton jack on the bottom, lots of force, wood is crushing.    Chisels wedging the clamp apart--its clearly "loose" on the bottom side..

Ive been soaking this with PBBlaster for about 3 weeks now.   Earlier, I had a  3x3 x 6ft box iron chained to the knee, with a comealong hooked on the end back to the rear axle trying to twist it.   Bent the box iron!   I had a gas heater underneath it for 2 hours, it was hot enough you didn't want to touch it, sprayed in lots of PB while it heated and cooled.  Oh, and took it out with no bolts in and drop in circles in the corn field.....

The weird thing is the other side didn't even have to use a hammer...just loosened the bolts and slid it out by hand.  Always gotta be ONE!

Any suggestions from those of you who have had a "toughy"?

thumbnail_IMG_5930.jpg

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I'm in the same boat. Got one that will not come loose. You have given me an idea about how to apply more pressure. I may look in scrap yard for another center section. I can see in the picture that you have the long one that is jammed all the way in. The replacements I bought are not as long and do not cover the holes next to the pivot pin.

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Paint is still on it......HOT, HOTTER, HOTTEST........fire up the rosebud and weed burner!!

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Yeah buddy, i fell your pain. More psi top and bottom and smack a few places will pop them loose on top of all your doing. 

20190709_180617.jpg.1b436e1e7c55f2938dcf5d7942ee71c7.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Long Farms said:

Yeah buddy, i fell your pain. More psi top and bottom and smack a few places will pop them loose on top of all your doing. 

20190709_180617.jpg.1b436e1e7c55f2938dcf5d7942ee71c7.jpg

when and if you get it loosened up apply a generous amount of neverseize lube lol those are son-of'a-guns to get moved

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Only thing that's going to talk to it is heat. May not even take much. No need to get it red hot.

Betcha a crisp $20 that when you do get it apart, the PB won't have "penetrated" a fraction of an inch. 

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38 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Only thing that's going to talk to it is heat. May not even take much. No need to get it red hot.

Betcha a crisp $20 that when you do get it apart, the PB won't have "penetrated" a fraction of an inch. 

If I agree with your PB won’t have penetrated an inch, can I have your $20? 😬🤣

When I narrowed up the 1456, I loosened everything in the fall, and every week through winter, I would spray it down with penetrating oil, and smack parts with a sledge hammer.  When I finally got it apart, that was a lot of wasted penetrating oil!!!! 

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Build a wrench that fits on the king pin boss and has a long handle. Apply torque while the jacks are pressured to the max. I agree with the guys that say you need the gas axe and lots of heat with the biggest rosebud you can find!

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Is that a piece of metal welded to the axle just above the red jack? If it is, the tube will be distorted and might not come loose at all. Did you cut the slot longer in the outer tube? Looks like a disc grinder has been busy.

 

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Yes you are going to need a big propane torch and a big acetylene rosebud. You will need to heat tube across then tap wit hammer and big air hammer to vibrate rust out

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Enlarged the photo, that is a factory piece welded on there. Probably not the cause of it sticking. Drill and tap some grease zerks along the axle, maybe?

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 Feel for you..

Have been working on a cub axle for 3 months the same issue.

no where to [put the jacks to get an even push

couple soakings, heat from camp torch, 5130 on each end  winch between and BFH 1 side came right out

the other side..... just drags the tractors ,with alot of heat added 20 min , paint all gone.. 

next will be add twist ,but takes sized levers as ALL the openings have sized bushings

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........they can be difficult  !!!.......this pics of the Farmall M   struggles....but we got there!!  Note the heat applied to the axle.....

 

Mike

post-157-1176969939      front axle.jpg

post-157-1176969870      front axle.jpg

post-157-1176970013     front axle.jpg

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50 minutes ago, dale560 said:

Yes you are going to need a big propane torch and a big acetylene rosebud. You will need to heat tube across then tap wit hammer and big air hammer to vibrate rust out

Best advise yet.......I only had one that still wouldn't move(06/56 style tube)got to looking at it.......some shmoe rewelded the tubes for the wishbone underneith and burned right through into the knees......went after it with the gouge tip on the plasma and one I got the weld cut out it popped right apart.  Rewelded it and all was good.  Not what is going on here, but something to keep in mind on them.

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3 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Its NOT moving....  not a single mm! 

10T portapower on the top...maxed out.   20 ton jack on the bottom, lots of force, wood is crushing.    Chisels wedging the clamp apart--its clearly "loose" on the bottom side..

Ive been soaking this with PBBlaster for about 3 weeks now.   Earlier, I had a  3x3 x 6ft box iron chained to the knee, with a comealong hooked on the end back to the rear axle trying to twist it.   Bent the box iron!   I had a gas heater underneath it for 2 hours, it was hot enough you didn't want to touch it, sprayed in lots of PB while it heated and cooled.  Oh, and took it out with no bolts in and drop in circles in the corn field.....

The weird thing is the other side didn't even have to use a hammer...just loosened the bolts and slid it out by hand.  Always gotta be ONE!

Any suggestions from those of you who have had a "toughy"?

thumbnail_IMG_5930.jpg

Been there had to use mine 8 months with clamps loose a smaller bolt in hole finally hit a ditch at a high rate of speed mowing it popped free then it moved easy .

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Since you have one hole showing, you are not done yet. We built a clevis shaped piece that fits over the tube of the knee. Drop the pin in and with the 10 feet of handle we have you can apply enough force to get it to turn a little and a little more and work it out. However if they are way in for 30 inch rows that is not an option. We have even had the loader on our long handle, hasn't failed us yet.

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12 hours ago, R Pope said:

Enlarged the photo, that is a factory piece welded on there. Probably not the cause of it sticking. Drill and tap some grease zerks along the axle, maybe?

I drilled and tapped 4 zerks for a guy on a 1066. He said he greased it once a day for a week and it came out. 

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12 hours ago, ky966boy said:

Been there had to use mine 8 months with clamps loose a smaller bolt in hole finally hit a ditch at a high rate of speed mowing it popped free then it moved easy .

This right here. Works great 👍. Well as long as your not in a hurry. Or drive it through a dead furrow. Bump from tire against a tree. Anything to get the inner to twist in the tube. Worked great for me and only took a little time. 

Bounus is you won't have to repaint anything.

I think George 2 told me this trick not long after I first joined RPM.

Erich

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2 hours ago, Finney said:

I drilled and tapped 4 zerks for a guy on a 1066. He said he greased it once a day for a week and it came out. 

Did you put the zerks on the top/bottom or the sides?

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I had the same problem asked a lot of questions on here, lots of help. my last challenge was the 856 3 point would not slide out, soaked all winter in a pail of penetrating oil, finally one guy told me to cut the flat pieces of metal off the bottom, used a thin blade, rewelded new pieces on, but the moral of the story is the penetrating oil didn't cut thru the rust either.last bad axle was m Schwartz front end, one side 5 minutes, the other side I think 5 days, once it gives that little bit then you know you got it beat,

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2 hours ago, Finney said:

I drilled and tapped 4 zerks for a guy on a 1066. He said he greased it once a day for a week and it came out. 

That idea would work great if you could get some liquid in there also. Maybe drill a bit bigger or 1/4 pipe  and take something like a porta power pump filled with oil and penetrating oil in and pump it through small quick fittings. 

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we couldnt get ours loose on the 560, beat, heated, cursed, chained, jacked, like all this stuff so we took bolts out, wedge washers to spread tightener, tacked those to not fall out, sprayed with oils of various types off/on, drove around  just doing chores/mowing,  anything at slow speeds, with all the bolts and things holding it for about 3 months and then one day POP front wheel twisted and bent the steering/tie rod and it was loose, came right apart after that lol. 

 

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I think I moved two on two tractors in my lifetime.I never really seen a need to mess with them.I was very lucky I guess never,had any trouble with those. Reading this thread makes me be satisfied where the ones I own now are set.

Close enough for government work.

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