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Mountain Heritage

Upper cab,no power 88 series

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Wondering if there is another fuse for upper cab (fan, radio) in a 3688 other than the main fuses under steering column?  Had it blow before and had to replace 15 amp fuse under column and all was good afterwards.  Was out plowing yesterday, shut off tractor to trim trees and when restarted nothing up top worked.  Can't lay my hands on owners manual at the moment, sometimers setting I think!  I know its here somewhere.

When I was done plowingblast night, wasn't in the humour to start searching for fuses in the dark, not to mention I had hard time feeling my frozen feet.  Man, how did we used to do this on an open station tractor!!

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26 minutes ago, Mountain Heritage said:

Wondering if there is another fuse for upper cab (fan, radio) in a 3688 other than the main fuses under steering column?  Had it blow before and had to replace 15 amp fuse under column and all was good afterwards.  Was out plowing yesterday, shut off tractor to trim trees and when restarted nothing up top worked.  Can't lay my hands on owners manual at the moment, sometimers setting I think!  I know its here somewhere.

When I was done plowingblast night, wasn't in the humour to start searching for fuses in the dark, not to mention I had hard time feeling my frozen feet.  Man, how did we used to do this on an open station tractor!!

 I would bet it’s your cab solenoid that needs to be replaced. 

 You should hear it click when you turn the key on and off 

 You could try jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver or something 

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I bought a real heavy snowplow selonoid for ours at Napa.Think it was for a western or hiniker plow .in there rapper.Ors does it with lights on along time on crap pump or blower.Also check that fuse block on back for corrosion. I bought that at napa too.

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X3 it's the cab solenoid. Same exact thing happened on my 1586 last summer. Bought a new solenoid from Triple R Tractors. Currently it's sitting on the cab floor awaiting installation.

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Ok so if it’s the cab solenoid wouldn’t it effect the lights?  They all still work - at least for now!!??

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So when key turns on there is a click ? So that would mean the solenoid is good right?  Is there another place to look for fuse?

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Check and see if you have power on both big posts of the solenoid. Even if it clicks doesn't mean it is good. The internal contacts can be bad and not letting power through

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4 minutes ago, Mighty1206 said:

Check and see if you have power on both big posts of the solenoid. Even if it clicks doesn't mean it is good. The internal contacts can be bad and not letting power through

🤦‍♂️  Damn gremlins!!!!

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If you do need a solenoid get a prestalite one from links or Hy capacity. The ones Case IH sell are junk, atleast they were a couple years ago

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To "jump" the solenoid, you make the two big posts join together (ie, like the screwdriver suggestion) or take the nut off one wire and move that wire over to be with the other one. You just  have to make sure you move them to the terminal that is always hot  though.  $5 test light is your friend. Don't need a multimeter or anything. 

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Just to be clear, jumping the solenoid is NOT the solution. That would leave your cab powered all the time and your battery will be dead the next morning.

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Picked up a solenoid at IH at lunch. Hopefully that will solve problem. Need to work with tractor again later this afternoon so don’t have time to wait on one from Mike or any place with proven quality. Hope to NOT freeze my a$$ off again tonight this way. 

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2 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Just to be clear, jumping the solenoid is NOT the solution. That would leave your cab powered all the time and your battery will be dead the next morning.

I think he means that is the quickest way to test without any special tools. 

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2 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Just to be clear, jumping the solenoid is NOT the solution. That would leave your cab powered all the time and your battery will be dead the next morning.

Yes,.  I stated above about jumping the solenoid.....it was to test only not a permanent fix.

Thanks for throwing that info out there.

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4 hours ago, TP from Central PA said:

I think he means that is the quickest way to test without any special tools. 

Agreed. Doesn't hurt to make a little extra effort to be clear. Not trying to step on anyone's toes... Spend too much time tripping over my own feet for that.

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So I put in new solenoid tonight, no dog on difference!  This one doesn’t even click when you turn on the key 😖

Thinking it’s defective?  I put test light onto both posts, only the one with wire from battery will light up. Put test light to the little relay/safety switch?????  Both posts on it can get test light to light up. So nothing has changed with the install of new solenoid. Suggestions, other than to blow it up!  Spent two hours getting old one out and new one installed. I see one reason why guys don’t like these ‘88 series tractors. How the heck do guys work in these cabs all the time!  Fat guy with big hands doesn’t fit well!

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First off , you need current to the small terminal when you turn the switch on.  If you have a light there with switch on, I would say your new cab solenoid is not grounded.  So, next test is to have switch on and then prod the outer metal case part of cab solenoid.  If it lights up that means it is not grounded.  If no light, while still having power on small terminal and the one large terminal, then you can say new cab solenoid is defective.   

Just jump the two large terminals and to make sure heater motor etc run then or maybe you already did that.  Working on tractors is not always easy . 

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8 minutes ago, Mighty1206 said:

The style you got you need to make a ground wire for the other small post....

So run a ground wire from other small terminal on solenoid that doesn’t have a wire on it yet. Best place to ground it in this cluster of a mess?  The solenoid I took out only had one terminal - s was it grounding through mounting bolts on firewall?

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35 minutes ago, Mountain Heritage said:

So run a ground wire from other small terminal on solenoid that doesn’t have a wire on it yet. Best place to ground it in this cluster of a mess?  The solenoid I took out only had one terminal - s was it grounding through mounting bolts on firewall?

There should have been a ground wire in the package with the solenoid. Ground it wherever you can get a good connection.

Yes the original solenoid did ground through the base, this solenoid does not ground through the base. The new solenoid you ave is not polarity specific, connect the wires to whichever post your wires fit to the best.
 

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I did not realize the new relay had two small terminals.  Not familiar with newest ones. 

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If you think that was fun in the 88, wait until you have to stand on your head to put on in a Magnum.

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He should still have power at his "signal" (key switch) wire though.  Even if the solenoid isn't grounded. So there could be more than one thing going on here.  

Like it's been said.... Jump the two big teminals together, and your cab stuff should work. Even with the key turned off.  That will verify that your fan/wiper etc are good. Then with or without anything else hooked up, put your test light probe onto that small signal wire, as like they said, it needs to go Hot when the key is on, and Off when it's off. If it doesn't,  that wire is damaged, or  the switch is 

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