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1486 duals (loaded?)


td9inidaho
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Last year bought my first 1486 and found a set of rims and tires to work as duals. Tractor has the 9 bolt hubs already. I put new tires all the way around on the tractor, duals are about 50 percent, which is what I hear is best on the axles. My reservation is, the "duals" are loaded full with calcium. Should I drain the calcium out seeings they are to be on the outside?  Won't use the tractor much in the winter so traction there isn't a big deal. Just hate to do damage to the rear axles or seals with all that weight out there. What are your thoughts?

Thanks

Mark

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just my experience with our 1486, are the tires 18.4 or 20.8s. if all 4 tires are loaded that is a lot of weight on the rear end. we took fluid out of our 1466 years ago with no cab, we do have 6 weights on the back 3 on each side, it will spin out but after fixing 2 rear ends in the 1486 . I think this is easier on a 45 year old tractor. this is always a huge debate.

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1 hour ago, td9inidaho said:

Last year bought my first 1486 and found a set of rims and tires to work as duals. Tractor has the 9 bolt hubs already. I put new tires all the way around on the tractor, duals are about 50 percent, which is what I hear is best on the axles. My reservation is, the "duals" are loaded full with calcium. Should I drain the calcium out seeings they are to be on the outside?  Won't use the tractor much in the winter so traction there isn't a big deal. Just hate to do damage to the rear axles or seals with all that weight out there. What are your thoughts?

Thanks

Mark

Get rid of the fluid in any tire it increases rolling resistance and wear on bearings not to mention extra tire repair costs Fluid in tires is a thing of the past 

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We had to rebuild something in the TA  &/or tranny nearly every year on our 1486---until I pumped all the fluid out of the tires (inner) and removed all the weights.  Then we never split it again.    It probably could have used a couple weights back on for better traction, but....   Obviously areas with light sandy soil may argue differently.    

I would never run fluid in the duals, especially.   x2 on the gut level bad idea.   

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Just the idea of rolling around 18.4x38 duals loaded with CaCl makes my back hurt.  I'd try to get as much fluid out of them as you can. 

Neighbor that farmed the 100 acres across the road got " Two shank-itus" on his chisel plow. Maybe FOUR shank-itus. Had a 4850 FWA Deere, full rack of weights in front, and TWENTY weights across the back about as high as the 3-pt rockshaft. Not sure if he had fluid,  whole tractor would power-hop on hard pulls.  Neighbor that farms behind me uses an MX-220 FWA,  just frt weights,  chisel about 4-5 ft narrower,  gets much more done and chisels deeper too. Runs faster with a smaller chisel.

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1 hour ago, Thesd5488 said:

You can always stack wheel weights in the duals if needed

9 bolt duals will bend just by looking at them.. it's why they have 9 bolt wheel center stiffners in a few magazines for sale. I have never seen a ten bolt stiffners . 

I would suggest not running fluid in any tires on a tractor with 9 bolt duals even the inside ones I wouldn't

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If your 9-bolt duals are IH duals, there were two suppliers. ELECTRIC WHEEL made wheels with 4 windows, gaps between the rim and wheel center, the bolt circle had ribs stamped in it to stiffen the bolt circle. But there was no stiffener plate welded to the bolt circle. In my opinion, the welded stiffener created a heat affected zone in the most stressed part of the wheel, and would probably crack right around the stiffening plate.  The French & Hecht dual wheels used centers stamped by Titan Proform, who also made the 10-bolt duals for the 1566, 1568, & 1586. I don't think the 10 bolt wheels had reinforcing plates, the whole center disk was thicker. The 9-bolt duals had a flat, smooth bolt pattern, no stiffening ribs, and did have a welded on stiffening plate around the bolt circle.  

    I've never actually heard anyone say they broke the bolt circle out of either brand wheel,  but I know it's had to have happened.

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 Based on what Doctor Evil stated, is there a 9 bolt wheel center stiffener that will work for IH tractors (in my case a IH-806)?  I can find them for John Deere but cannot come across one for IH.

Thanks

IH1586

 

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17 hours ago, DOCTOR EVIL said:

If your 9-bolt duals are IH duals, there were two suppliers. ELECTRIC WHEEL made wheels with 4 windows, gaps between the rim and wheel center, the bolt circle had ribs stamped in it to stiffen the bolt circle. But there was no stiffener plate welded to the bolt circle. In my opinion, the welded stiffener created a heat affected zone in the most stressed part of the wheel, and would probably crack right around the stiffening plate.  The French & Hecht dual wheels used centers stamped by Titan Proform, who also made the 10-bolt duals for the 1566, 1568, & 1586. I don't think the 10 bolt wheels had reinforcing plates, the whole center disk was thicker. The 9-bolt duals had a flat, smooth bolt pattern, no stiffening ribs, and did have a welded on stiffening plate around the bolt circle.  

    I've never actually heard anyone say they broke the bolt circle out of either brand wheel,  but I know it's had to have happened.

It usually boils down to keeping the hardware tight I've seen  centers broken out of 9 bolts duals or cracked  never seen stiffener plates used because the centers are not flat for a stiffener to bolt down tight 

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9 hours ago, IH1586 said:

 Based on what Doctor Evil stated, is there a 9 bolt wheel center stiffener that will work for IH tractors (in my case a IH-806)?  I can find them for John Deere but cannot come across one for IH.

Thanks

IH1586

 

The wheel center or disk is the same,  the disk was welded into the rim at a different offset and one painted 2150 red, the other yellow. The stiffener plate should fit both IH and Deere wheel centers. A lot of Mother Deere's dual wheels had a 3-4 inch hole punched in the disk,  guess to hang them from a loader, forklift, hoist when mounting them.  The 4 windows on the EWC duals do the same thing.  Guess that hole would be important on a F&H 360 degree contact dual.  OR, we drove our tractor, the 450 or 4010 onto a 2x4, or 2x6, 2x8, whatever, we had two alignment studs in the hub, carefully started a couple lug bolts and tightened them up. The board's length, width, and thickness varies with your tractor, and the air pressure and ballasting of the tractor.  Or you can use a BIG floor jack or bottle jack to raise the tractor slightly.

Our direct axle duals were 12x38's,  and we dualed them with several 12x38's, 13.6x38's, and a couple 15.5x38's.

Interesting fact, IH had 4 different 16x38 duals, two offsets for the 06,56,66,86 series, a 2+2 dual, and a 10 bolt dual for the 15-series with 4" axles.  Three different 18x38 duals, only one for the 06,56,66,86 series, a 2+2 dual, and the 15-series dual.

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19 minutes ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

My 4386--were those 9 bolt or 10 bolt?   They were 34", but the centers were really heavy...like 1/2" thick or so.  Can't imagine them breaking.

The 9 bolts I have seen are stamped steel and thin. Maybe 3/16" tops 

Of the 10 bolt ones I have seen they are either 3/8" thick or .550 on the better ones . Much more stout compared to the 9 bolts

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