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Jeff-C-IL

New to me 666

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Its dangerous spending time on the Red Power forum.   I had sold my 1066, 1486, and 806.....and ya'll made me want another "real" tractor.....

I'd been thinking for some time about getting a smaller nimble tractor for general dogsbody work, mowing roads, moving machinery, planting sweet corn....etc.   Didn't really need one...but would be nice to not always have to take the loader off the 9030 to mow roads.   I'd never had a smaller IH, but liked the looks of the 656, 666 size,  still a row crop, but not a full size 856, 966.    I also far prefer the 300/400 series motors cause I worked on them extensively. 

Happened to notice this 666 on Tractorhouse.  Pretty clean & straight, 5500 hours, 2 remotes, 3 pt.  Claimed 1 local owner, does not look like it had a loader on it.  Drove 250 miles one way to take a look at it yesterday and brought it home.  Motor runs great, rolled right over and fired up in 30 deg this morning.  might have a little too much blowby, but thats expected on 5500 hour tractor.  And yes, that IS a OEM IH muffler--unbent!

Got a few problems. 

  • The hydraulics jump and whine.  Steering is jerky.  3pt comes up, but very slowly.  Pulling a valve lever does not "load" the motor.  Couple experienced IH techs both tell me its likely just a plugged filter.  Here's hoping!
  • One brake is loose, the pull is apparently broken inside the housing.  They gave me the parts.
  • Motor oil seems a bit thin and was overfull, may be a leak from the pump??   Its not water...may be fuel.
  • Alternator/ lights/etc do not work, but anything electrical is my slice of cake...no worries there at all.

I have a few Questions right off the bat.

  • Can I change the filter on these tractors w/o draining the rear end?  Its a diamond plate, not the round cover like the larger tractors. 
  • Hydraulics not working... any other thoughts from experience?
  • The injector return line looked to be leaking...then I see that the return line goes in a fitting on the bottom of the tank, with a "petcock"...and its screwed way in...ie shut off.  Can't be good!  This needs to be open, correct?
  • Brakes...any tips on fixing the brake linkage?
  • Best service manual to get??
  • I'm sure I'll have more!

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Nice tactor. I have no knowledge here at all to offer, I've bever been around anything smaller than an 826, but I do have a neighbor with a 666 that he put a turbo on and he loves it, Althogh he hasn't actually ever needed it as a field tractor. 

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Looks good!  Sort out a few little issues and you will enjoy that machine. 

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I’d send an engine oil sample away to verify fuel dilution, could have a sticky injector if hasn’t been used much with today’s poor fuels.

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I have a triple six and a 686,both with the D312.Damn good tractors.Your hydraulic issues:start at the filter,won't loose much oil changing the filter.Check the oil itself.Couple places on these tractors where pump can loose prime:hydraulic pump suction tube seal and suction tube in rear axle housing.Can check pump pressure and flow on a remote.Does power steering work?Tractor has two pumps, Main pump for steering and remotes with steering having priority(priority valve).Piggyback pump on main pump for three point hitch.Brakes will be self explanitory after pulling cover.

Paul

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Regarding the misbehaving hydraulics, those tractors are known for cracking (or something) the suction tube for the hydraulic pump.  Then they suck some air and everything acts weird.  The quick solution is to run the hydraulic oil level about an inch above the full mark.  I would change the filter before you do that.

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Yeah--thanks guys!   Pretty sure the oil was overfull on the dipstick.   It didn't look like hytran though...likely a thicker generic oil.  And it was cold out.  

SO to clarify...the power steering and remotes are on one pump, the 3pt on a separate one??  Unlike the larger tractors where remotes & 3pt the other?

The power steering was jumpy..it would groan and squeal and "hard-jump, hard-jump" randomly.

The 3pt came up, but very slowly.   

Pulling the remote levers you couldn't hear any change in the motor or hydraulics.  Haven't tried hooking anything to it yet.

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I love 666's just wish they used another number 

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4 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

SO to clarify...the power steering and remotes are on one pump, the 3pt on a separate one??  Unlike the larger tractors where remotes & 3pt the other?

Steering on one pump hitch on the other. Remotes use both.

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4 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

SO to clarify...the power steering and remotes are on one pump, the 3pt on a separate one??  Unlike the larger tractors where remotes & 3pt the other?

Steering on one pump hitch on the other. Remotes use both.

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Update:  

Saturday I pulled the hydraulic filter housing off, and what came out was butterscotch syrup...   The filter and screen were completely covered with thick, almost mucus like stuff.  BUT---no chips or shavings of any sort....just goo.   So we drained the rear end, flushed it with some diesel fuel, and refilled it with fresh Hytran.  A new filter, cleaned the screen, and....started up and...NOTHING....30 seconds at idle and she caught prime.  A few turns of the wheel lock to lock, and the tractor hydraulics are working nice.   YES!!!   No more squeal, 3pt works, remotes work, steering works.  I have a few leaks to fix, nothing major.

The only thing is the steering seems a bit "heavier" than my 806 or 1066.  The power steering works smooth, but it takes a little force to actually turn the wheels, unlike my 806 where you could spin it with one finger.  There are no weights on the 666, so I did not expect that.   Is this normal for this type of tractor?

Changed the engine oil too, oil looked uncontaminated and dark black.   So I'm thinking I may have got a solid little machine!

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Nice!👍.If it is cold out it will take a little more effort to turn the steering wheel.When the oil warms up enough should turn almost effortlessly.

Paul

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I beleive these smaller tractors do have a bit less pump.  Remember it is a single pump for all the hydraulics, where the bigger tractors had a pump dedicated for steering, brakes and TA separated from the main hydraulics.  There was a larger pump you could put in them I believe standard was 12gpm the larger was 16gpm? I know I have the larger on my 656.  I think in the best of conditions my 656 would never steer easier then the larger 1066's or the likes.  I also have the space plate from I beleive Hycapacity to use the extended filter.

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On 11/6/2019 at 12:00 PM, Jeff-C-IL said:

Its dangerous spending time on the Red Power forum.   I had sold my 1066, 1486, and 806.....and ya'll made me want another "real" tractor.....

 

first off, did you forget to take your medication the day you sold those 3 ? 

on a hydraulic side note, there were some 560s - you could order a high volume pump with as an option from the factory. it was identified by a stamp on the s/n plate - IIRC the standard was around 12 and the upgraded was 17gpm - i had a 17 on my 560 and the steering and rear outlets worked very well- never had any issues lifting implements etc.....i ran it about 1100 rpms to split firewood on our splitter from the rear outlet never had to rev it up anymore than that even on dead elm 

 

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You should like that tractor once you get the small things fixed. My 686 has the 312 and I really like that engine in a tractor that size for the tasks you mentioned originally. 

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On 11/6/2019 at 11:00 AM, Jeff-C-IL said:

Its dangerous spending time on the Red Power forum.   I had sold my 1066, 1486, and 806.....and ya'll made me want another "real" tractor.....

 

1 hour ago, searcyfarms said:

first off, did you forget to take your medication the day you sold those 3 ? 

 

Haha I had actually thought the same thing when I first read the topic. 

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The brakes are completely foot powered in a dry housing. When you press the pedal with your foot the linkage pulls the outside of a round plate causing it to turn inside the housing. On the plate are grooves that gradually get shallower. In the grooves are steel balls. As the plate turns the steel balls roll in the grooves to the shallow end. This forces the plate sideways clamping the brake disc.

they are not difficult to rebuild but get a manual. If I remember correctly there are shims that hold an outer race that have to be put back correctly.

congratulations on the new tractor. Good luck.

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Looks like all posts have covered your issues, and yes the fuel return line should be open to tank.looks like a great tractor you got there,sure you will love it.😊 

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12 hours ago, searcyfarms said:

first off, did you forget to take your medication the day you sold those 3 ? 

 

Now now guys, it all made sense at the time....😅  I replaced the 1486 with a 4386, and then with a 9230 4x4;   the 1066 was the loader tractor (which I have a 9030 bi-di for) and a local neighbor begged me to sell the 10 to him (he loves it).  The 806 I sold because it kept trying to kill me....and I needed a cab.  I noticed I would get very sick after planting etc...finally realized the chemicals/dust/etc i breathed while working on an open tractor were the cause.  Also, my shoe would catch under the clutch pedal while getting off, and I'd go head first off the side!  Sounds weird I know, but it happened about 10 times!

So this little 666 is my 806 replacement: different clutch pedal placement, spin-on filters, and not for general use in the field.

Next I need to find one of those roll bar canopies, and a weight bracket.   I've looked at the tractor recyclers (AllStates, Worthington, etc) and none off them list canopy/rollbars on their site. Is it some sort of liability thing---or are they that rare??

You mentioned a bigger pump...how about the pressure relief?  I know I swapped out the relief valve on the 806 for a higher pressure one, I think 2200psi?  The original relief didn't have enough pressure to raise the planter.   Can you do the same on the 666?

I'm getting a service manual reprint and a original owners manual (ebay) soon, so maybe some answers there.

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17 minutes ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Now now guys, it all made sense at the time....  I replaced the 1486 with a 4386, and then with a 9230 4x4;   the 1066 was the loader tractor (which I have a 9030 bi-di for) and a local neighbor begged me to sell the 10 to him (he loves it).  The 806 I sold because it kept trying to kill me....and I needed a cab. 

Well of course we had to give you a hard time Jeff - sounds like you found some nice replacements 

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Factory rops/canopy for these tractors are hard to come by.Nyssa Tractor in Eastern Oregon might have one,they ship anywhere in the country.There is a company that makes an aftermarket rops/canopy, but for liability reasons it is not certified in case of a roll over.They are advertised as a sunshade/canopy.

Paul

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We had a Hydro 70. My understanding is that the high amount of blow-by is characteristic of that engine.

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