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1949 TD6 Crawler W/Loader Blade & Bucket

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DSDC,,,...….re the bottom rollers...…..the wear pattern is not  on the ""sides""    (flanges)of the roller's ...it is on the running surface....where your track links run ….and that is where the wear is ….:).......and because those surfaces are worn...….the overall diameter   of your roller diminishes….thus the roller flanges end up  crunching into the pin bosses...…...Re the Berco   question...….if   the tractor has had new rollers  ...Berco where/  are an aftermarket  alternative to original IHC    rollers.....they are of good quality...and ''less spendy ''    than IH ones...…..As your rollers are  getting worn...….and   IF     they happened to be Berco...they are easy to disassemble and build up  yourself...…..providing one has the necessary welding skills.....This can be a simple , cheap   and well worth the time "fix"......Original IH rollers are more difficult to disassemble  …….

Re the "dip stick " on the  TD6....I checked the two that I currently have...plus two TD9's...…..no dip sticks...or ""bayonet   gauge" in evidence......but none the less...I stand corrected......If the book says so..it must be correct...….However, on the few old T20   crawlers here.....they have the "bayonet gauge " !!!

….and as for the track adjuster...don't stress   about it....if its doing a job...that's fine.....what I meant was if you wanted  to replace /repair further etc......it is a very simple fix......When the track has no tension...…..check out any side play.....any "flop" in the front idler  (from side to side ….)….again  ...if badly worn it will need attention, and as it is burdened with a loader...that is possibly the case.....but...….again...if you or a good Mate    ("Buddy" in your lingo !!)…….is handy with a welder ..it is a  relatively easy fix......to build the "idler slides "

Good luck.....and keep us posted  


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  • 1 year later...

It's been awhile since I have had time to update everyone on the TD6's play dates. Life tends to get in the way of playing on websites so my apologies to those who have followed faithfully and wondered what happened.

The ole' girl is still working and earning her keep. Last summer I was asked to move a rock off one of our logging roads that stuck up just high enough to hit the bottom of my fathers UTV. I thought no big deal and after 20 minutes found the rock had grown a few feet as I pushed and dug. 3ft of rock later I pushed that rock on the side of the trail along with 5 or 8 others.  I learned the glacier had a bowl movement at this point in the trail and used fill from the sides to make big holes disappear. Unfortunately, the weather started get pretty set for a down pour so the road didn't get finished. I headed back to shelter and as the skies opened up, proceeded to wait it out and started inspecting the ole' girl.

Upon doing so I noticed the left side adjuster looked a tad crooked. Further inspection revealed it had self destructed. I dismantled the pieces, talked to a friend who is a damn good machinist, and after a week of work picked up the new adjuster and started putting it back together. That's when I learned the track needs to be split to slide the idler forward enough to be able to install the new adjuster. 1950691191_20210815_1228231.thumb.jpg.9c053cc35200407cc9ce92f650fd885b.jpg

I guess engineers like helping the English language evolve quickly into new words. Seems on TD6 tracks, the pins go in from the left side on both right and left track assemblies. This might be great if you are working on the right side, but not so fun if working on the left.

HINT, make sure when working on left side tracks to be sure master link is at the rear of the unit and about centered on the drive sprocket at the 9 o'clock position when looking at the inside. When deciding to tackle this project. Be sure to have a torch, a really big hammer, a really long drift punch, and plenty of new words. Remove the cotter pin on the inside, then heat the outside outer link around the pin, bribe a friend to keep heating as you use a drift punch and hammer to drive the pin from the inside towards the outside as there is a shoulder on the outside of the pin. Also, be sure you have welding gloves on about the time the pin goes flying out as upon retrieving the drift punch, the track will fall back and the 3rd degree burns you get as it slaps your wrist tingle for a few days.


Notice also how one side of the pin has 60 plus years of wear which made a groove. The joy!


At this point you can now use a long heavy duty pry bar to slide the idler forward enough to get the ready rod screwed into the original hole.

Newly repaired adjuster.


A good coat of never seize on the threads will make life happier when you have to adjust it. Now you can slide the idler back into position reinstall the master pin after you wire brush it, never seize it also. I also removed the 4 bolts on the bracket on the idler and cleaned up the housing and bolts as they were rusty.

I used a come along to pull the idler back into position and replaced the missing bolts that hold the coupler to the bracket so it cant spin.


When installing the pin, place the non grooved side 180 degrees from where it was when you removed it and it will give you 60 more years of use out of it. Notice the I cleaned up the outer ridge and it now slides in very nicely so when I have to separate it again, less new words will be used.


Once the track is back together, you can now use a wrench to tighten the nut towards the rear until you get proper tension then tighten the front nut down against the rear one to lock it.

A note to Mike Newman, thank you for your information. I still have to build up the rollers as you mentioned. I think I understand now what you mean as I noticed the rollers are getting into the pins as you stated. I should have done the left side when I had it apart, having just read your last reply tonight, and being  time was been a factor then, I will have to do so as soon as time becomes available. I still don't know if the rollers are the original ones but will check when I can.

One last thing, note to all, the TD6 is to light to pull a fully loaded single axle IH patrol dump truck out once you sink in with the dump truck and break an axle shaft trying to get it out before you get the TD6 to pull you. Note to self. get the crawler first and use the TD6 with the help of the truck and you wont have to find time and parts to fix the dump truck.

Happy 4th of July to all of you! Chris especially.


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louie figone, thanks. As for the other side, your correct. I need to get that one redone also. Time seems to always be lacking. I still have the axle to find and replace on the dump truck yet too. As well as rebuld the idlers on the TD6 as Mike suggested.  Add to that the race car, work 1. work 2. Yeah, one day. 😉

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  • 3 months later...

Found an axle so the dump truck axle got replaced and is up and running now. also moved some dirt with the TD6. Hope to get some more moved but is raining this weekend. go figure.

Your welcome Raleigh

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This is a good post, I had not seen it before. I signed in about a year ago. I turn down my enthusiasm to get er done a little when I use the old stuff that is hard to find parts for. I turn my aggression's to my dirt bike.

Good luck with all

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