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1949 TD6 Crawler W/Loader Blade & Bucket


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DSDC,

The brass lid locking ring has come loose from the top of the radiator casting neck. Maybe lost? I believe they are one of those unobtainable items as mmi suggests? I found mine inside the original cap, a DUH! moment! Since its a non pressurized system I guess it doesn't matter much if the cap just sets on there and bounces around! Mine was that way for years probably and must have worked OK. I just like to get things back in good functioning working order as the wallet allows. Should have tried soldering rather than brazing!

Your current rear cover may work just fine for a long time and have a good story with it too!:)

Regards,

 Chris

 

 

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On 11/5/2019 at 3:38 PM, nomorejohndeere said:

I've seen that style loader/dozer combo before on the net

 

Folks,

I was poking around on the Antiques Tractor Forum and found a yellow tracked unit with a loader much like this. I will see if I can find and copy the picture.

Regards,

 Chris

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On 11/4/2019 at 2:54 AM, DieselSmokeDangerousCurves said:

Thanks to all, I do have a parts manual and operators manual, they aren't the best but have a lot of info that Iv'e used so far.  ray54 you mentioned cool down period, i developed that habit when running older cummins and cat motors to prevent turbo failure. The book says go back to gas before shut down. On here people have said to leave it on diesel so the valves don't crack. Which works best? It usually dies anyway when I try to go back to gas. Hopefully I haven't messed anything up yet. Does anyone have a pdf version of the operators manual? When I got time otherwise I'll scan mine. The blade works really well but I'd like to find a complete 6 way blade for it also. Id like to slowly add all the options as I go.As for the float style valve,  when I get time I'll try looking one up. I use my TD6 for rough grading and finish with a Ford 8N using a landscape rake. Works really well. I just hate every time the front end drops on the crawler, the blade goes down with it and trying to run 5 levers and 2 pedals with 2 arms can and 2 feet at the same time can be interesting.

Pete, reading your posts about yours is why I posted my questions, I hope you don't give up on yours as once you run one of these they are really addicting. Dad also has a JD 450C  loader/ backhoe I work on and use and between the 2 and the Ford we get a lot done. Is yours also a non-pressurized cooling system? Hence why I'm asking about the 2 different thermostats. I will need more training in the grease and lube dept. i have the adapter but no lube bucket. More to add to list. I get thru your state a lot on the way to Urbana and Chicago so maybe somewere in there you'll be holding classes. Don't give up!

louie figone thanks for the info on the PTO. I need 540 so I'll watch for the right one. oldscoutdiesel thanks for that info also..

If this works heers more pics, the one of the front PTO shaft coupler is showing aprox were the starter won't catch, the bolt will be up and down straight.

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Very nice Machine! Keep up the good work. :)

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Thanks but i bought it this way and have just been fixing the things up on it that are not maintained properly or need adjusting. Hauling Christmas trees today so not able to do much on it this weekend as dad will have tons for me to do tomorrow when I go up by him. I was hoping to get a new thermostat in it soon before it gets any colder. I also want to cut out a rubber gasket for the fancy clutch cover radiator cap.

Tis the season.

In keeping with the international theme

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving.

Haven't had much time to play with the dozer with work and all, but had to move snow last weekend and will again this weekend. Ole' girl started right up and worked well. Do think tho it will need the brakes and steering arms adjusted when i get time. Was only in 20's for temp but no issues starting or flipping to diesel. I guess I can't send video. Anyone know how without making a youtube video?

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  • 5 weeks later...

Have been using the the crawler every weekend so far this winter except this one for moving snow. Had trouble starting it one weekend when it was 7 deg F out but a Mr heater and a lil jump from the GMC after the block got warm and she fired up. Was so cold at first the starter wouldn't even turn over.Bought the new thermostat and gasket and will install it as soon as it warms up a lil. Also have to replace the block heater and hoses as the cord was rotted off and went up in flames the first time it was plugged in this winter. Been adding Howes fuel additive to the diesel and lead substitute to the gas to protect the valves and keep moisture out. Am going to buy some Lucas fuel additive to also add to each as this old engine liked sulfer in its fuel and the new diesel is to environmentally friendly and not old engine friendly. I have to find a "Chris" solution for tightening the left track as it the tensioner has been re-african engineered. Can't find a solution to posting short videos so one pic is all ya get. 

Hope you all had a Merry Christmas and are having a great new year.

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Rick,

 Nice shot of your dozer doing work pushing snow! We have not had hardly any snow. Only plowed the drive a couple times with the Jubilee.  Thanks for posting the update. I had some trouble starting my TD6, and had to pretty much go through the whole wiring system. New cables and the works. Seems much better now.

Regards,

 Chris

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I learned the more I run mine the easier it starts every time. I have so much I want to do on mine too. Upgrade wiring, pressure wash it, I need to learn where to grease it all, (I know where some of the button grease zerks are but not sure what takes grease or which flavor and weight and what takes oil or other lube. The manual uses old terms and no one around here is alive anymore to remember what is what. I figure all the button heads along the track are grease but I'm wondering what to use in the rollers as guys on here recommend some kind of corn head grease or something. I have the special fitting for the button heads and will just grease the track areas before the next time I use it. Also turning right with just the lever is way more pull than turning left so come spring adjustments gotta be done there too. I gotta find me a way to set the parking brake easier also as trying to bend down to reach it with my fingers don't work well. I'm not that flexible. 

She's earning her rent tho and come spring I have a bunch of dirt and stumps to push also. The blade on it now works well in the snow without digging in to much if I roll the blade back twords the machine and let the back side of the blade ride on the ground with the front edge slightly up. a lil down pressure and all is well even when the front goes up or down. With out a "float" position the only time I have issues is if the crawler goes over a left or right off camber hump on our logging roads. It will dig in on one side if I don't quickly raise the blade a lil. Also any rocks with their tops above the ground mysteriously come out of the ground unless their giant. The same rocks the 8N back blade bounced over. I'm thinking the rock pile out back will be larger in spring.

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When they were new, they had what they called "track grease". It was a soft gun grease that was fairly sticky so it followed the bearings around in the rollers. My uncle had a 50 D-7 Cat and we used buckets of this back in the 60's when I ran his 7 for him.

The book for my 250-c, says to remove plug,( no button in these) and fill with 90 weight.---Times have changed.

When I had my TD-9's I used regular gun grease in them because track grease was no longer made! ---ALL of the newer track rollers are sealed.

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Anyone know if either of these 2 track adjusters are original? The first one is the left side, the second with the double nuts is the right side. The left one needs adjustment bad. Looking at it I'm thinking it might be a struggle.

Thanks SONNY for some info on the grease. I have a really sticky type grease I will try. Its a white synthetic blend that works well on semi trucks.

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The lower picture looks to be close to original. The upper picture looks like something I would do to try to tighten the track. Mine are both in need of repair. I dont even have them on the list of things to do at this time. You may have seen in my thread that I pushed the track tight and inserted a spacer ring to take up the slop in the adjuster. It works but is not adjustable. A true farmer fix. My uncle would be proud of me!

Regards,

 Chris

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Bottom pic. is what the 9 had on it.---Top pic. is not original. --- Wish I still had my parts machine as it had good adjusters on it. I don't knoe if they were the same size as the 6 but anything is possible.

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  • 2 months later...

Haven't had time to update you all with everything going on on my TD6 lately due to life, so I'll try to cram in as much as I can now.

Had a chance to grease all the button fittings I could find on each side of the track rail and the idlers a few weeks ago as well as any other grease zerks I could find with out climbing under it on the frozen ground. Will find those when its clean and its warmer.  Also, took a better look at the adjusters on each side. The left side with the extra hardware still looks like there are 2 nuts under the lock and it looks like the clamp must be there to keep them from slipping. Once it gets a little bit warmer I will try to adjust them after I pressure wash everything. Are there any replaceable wear bars on the bottom were the track rides? I've noticed the track links are riding very deep there and it is wearing into each link. I'm hoping once i tighten the track it don't cut in deeper. 

The ole girl served us well this winter in pushing snow. She started and was used pretty much every weekend. One day it was 7 deg out. That morning it was so cold even the starter wouldn't turn over. I tried to plug in the block heater and the old chord went up in smoke so after blowing out the fire, I went and grabbed a propane Mr. Heater and placed it under the motor along with a rug over the top of everything above to make a tent. I hooked the pickup up to the battery to warm that up and after an hour everything spun over and she fired up on gas. A few minutes later and she flipped to diesel and purred while warming up. It's amazing how much snow these small machines can push. Ice piles tho can be a challenge. it slips on ice despite the tracks which also makes steering large piles a pain.  To keep from tearing up the driveway and grass, I learned that because there is no float position in the ram controls, if I turn the blade back so that the front of the blade is up a little bit and the back is on the ground, it doesn't dig in unless you go down a hill steeper than the blade height. 

The other thing I noticed is when you cut down iron wood and leave  2 foot stumps about 2"-5" around they just tip over in winter rather than come out of the ground easy. Guess the frost is holding the roots in. I'd like to find an actual bulldozer and frame for pushing bigger stumps and stuff because I worry if I don't spin the tracks on something to big, that the loader frame will get bent. I did blow a hose for moving the blade back. 10 minutes after putting a different hose on, the one to make the blade go forward blew. They both were old and cracked so go figure. Now that the snow is melting, any were a rock was buried with any part of it sticking up, there is now a hole about a foot long with the rock moved over. More work. tho less rocks buried. 

I've included a couple of trail cam pics of me pushing snow down one of our logging roads. Ignore the date and time as the LED screen is messed up so there is no way to set anything including those. 

Time to get the race car ready, stay healthy everyone and watch out for stores with no toilet paper or sanitizers, and this crazy China virus going around.

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Rick,

 Good pictures of the '6' in the snow doing some work! Nice to have a machine that can help with tasks like that too. Thanks for sharing the pictures!

 Regards,

 Chris

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  • 4 weeks later...

Started doing work on the TD6 the past 2 weekends again going thru everything to see what needs fixing. Decided to remove the starter to check the ring gear damage. Had the starter checked out while off and everything in it was brand new and nothing needed to be done with it except I will paint it properly. So now I have to replace the ring gear which unfortunately has a few teeth ground off it. I read PBach's post on his ring gear issues and it left me with a few questions. #1 has anybody tried getting the flywheel out from the back side by removing the top front plate, the drive shaft, the clutch lever shaft assy. then the pressure plate, clutch plate and finally the flywheel? The only big obstical I can see is if removing the coupler for the drive shaft will leave enough room to get everything out. Also I think from reading Pbach's site he just rotated the ring gear 90 deg or so. Pulling the motor might be a pain like Chris's TD6 as the loader might be in the way. Though taking it out would allow me to repaint all the areas that weren't painted very well the last refresh someone did on it. Right now if the engine lands on the bad area of the ring gear I have to use a pipe wrench on the front pump shaft to turn it a little so i don't mess up the starter. Not the worst but it gets old. Trying to do all this a few hours on the weekend might take awhile if I have to pull the motor. I've requested a quote for  a price on a ring gear from FP Smith for Part Number 47874 DC  the $325 cost from Bates is pretty steep considering it probably doesn't come shipped with one of their employees to install it at that price. Anyone know any other place were i can find one at a reasonable price? If i have to pull the motor anyway, that might be the smarter option. Also does anyone know were I can get a Part Number 51394 D track roller? I have a few worn ones, otherwise I will have to try to make some on the lathe. 

Hope your all staying safe and those of you who aren't essential are finding enough time to work on all your projects. Those of you who continue to have to work, be careful.

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Rick,

 I have never pulled the engine on one of these but my best guess is that it is the correct way to remove and replace the ring gear. I would get the new one too. Yes pricy, but what isnt now days. A month ago it cost $100 just to fill up my pick up truck. All that work you want it to function when its supposed to!:)

That bolt you have in the back hole is always a tough one for me to get started. Just not much room back in there. If your starter checks out you saved the price of the ring gear. I put more than $300 in starter repairs. Had to get a new armature.

Thanks for the update and pictures.

I have been busy cutting wood for making syrup next spring, mowing lawn and thinking about building a little shed for some of my junk.

 Regards,

 Chris

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I have replaced two Td6 ring gears in the  past 6 months and just got done putting the most recent one back together a few days ago. Both times I pulled the engine and it’s not as bad a job as you think. Easier than the steering clutch job which I have also done twice and hope to never do again.
 

The main clutch, coupling, drive shaft, etc are designed to be removed from the clutch compartment it’s just a bit tricky. It makes it easier to remove if the clutch is in the engaged position (lever pulled back). The ring gear will not come out of the clutch compartment without grinding some notches in the transmission housing - others have done this and you can probly find some posts on it. Personally I think grinding it would create some stress concentrations and could lead to cracks later down the road, then it’s a much bigger job. Plus all that work leaning over the loader mounts and everything doesn’t sound too appealing. I am glad I pulled the engines on mine but you also need a proper hoist. 

When I pulled mine, I left the clutch attached to the flywheel and so didn’t have to mess around in the clutch compartment too much. Since this job is fresh in my head i would be happy to help you with questions or if you need pictures.

 

Peter
 

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks Peter, I decided on leaving it in. I know exactly where the teeth are bad and use a pipe wrench to turn the front coupler a few degrees past were I know its bad. Also i used a file to clean up as many teeth as i could for now. The biggest reason for doing this is not being able to source a new reasonably priced ring gear. I can't see doing all the work just to turn it 90 degs or so and then worry it will decide to stop at the bad spot again. When I find a new one I'll get a hold of you for all that information. If my info is right you live in IL which is south of me and maybe a few free beers might entice you to come "visit" um "help". Racing starts up June 5th so all the spare time I have had has gone into rebuilding the  race car being the government seen to forcing the track to post pone the season 2 months.  Good thing I have been deemed essential and there was plenty of loads to haul to help pay for this all. So much going on I haven't had a chance to get to the thermostat or anything else on the TD6 lately. Plus the helping dad on his tractors and other projects has been keeping me busy also. 

Hope everyone is well and safe.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

My TD6 has a date in a few weeks with a job moving dirt for a friend to put in a driveway. So him and I spent last weekend going thru the old girl. Greased everything, not sure what happens when you grease all the idlers but not having a bucket oiler, it sounded like a plan. I did noticed that the track guides are worn, will need to find a set of those or will have to try to make a set. Also, finally had time to change the thermostat and replace the block heater.

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The thermostat was all beat up and once replaced the tempurature finally moved off the end and wen't just past the edge of the right side of the cold mark to the edge of the left side of green. Took the block heater off our Farmall 560 thinking we had a frost plug one for that and learned the one we had was the wrong one. Now i have to find a new one for that. Managed to find every grease Zerk and button fitting we could including the clutch area. We couldn't find one cam zerk in there tho. Not sure were its hidden. 

Also had a chance to adjust the steering linkages to the recommended 4" of free play. Not as bad as I had figured the job would be. Now tho with the taller seat, it's a little harder to reach them comfortably. Still have to adjust the steering brakes tho. Still have to check the oil in drive sprockets as well. Also figured out why the right front nut on the top of the trans is square and pulls out. Supposedly theres sposed to be a dipstick there. I'm thinking it must be broke off as only 1.5" of stud are left and nothing else. Will have to figure out how long its sposed to be. 

For awhile now, the gas sediment bulb assy hasn't shut off. Took it apart to figure out why and as you can see in the pics its rotted away. A neighbor who works on tractors had a good used one and a new screen and cork gasket. Don't use the rubber ones unless you plan on replaceing them every time you clean the bowl as they expand and won't seal after being installed. Still have to clean out the diesel one. Nervous because its a pain to get at and I'm betting harder to find if I have to replace it as well.

 

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This weekend I found a new home and owner for my 57' and 59' Chevy pickups. Haven't found time int 30 years to work on them so thanks to the TD6's help was able to load them on the new owners trailer and send them off. Still have more vehicles to restore hopefully eventually so I'm wondering when those will get time found for. 

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Hope every one had a good Fathers Day and is staying busy and safe.

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DSDC.... just finished reading  through your thread.....interesting !!  I have two TD6   crawlers and three   TD9  's.....so very familiar  with the vagaries   of the old IH crawlers........just wanted to mention a couple of points...….your  track chain bosses are wearing  because the bottom rollers are worn …….where the chain  (s)   roll...thus,  as they wear down. the bottom roller flanges  start  chewing into pin boss   ...if you happen to have "Berco"   replacement rollers....they are very simple to dismantle...and build up yourself......however, if they are original IH...thats a different story...…...other thing was you mentioned the big square  'nut ' on the gear box cover......and the possibility  of a dip stick for your trans oil level...I don't believe  they ever had a dip stick on them.....if so..I have yet to see one  ……!!!

Re your non original track adjuster....a good bloke in a machine shop can easily replicate that threaded shaft and lock nuts...….

Nice tidy old crawler   !!

Mike

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On 11/11/2019 at 1:34 AM, DieselSmokeDangerousCurves said:

Been a long week, I bought a new radiator cap only to find out when i got to dad's this weekend that I got no clue if it is right. There are no grooves for the ends to turn into. Are these friction fit? Photos will show hopefully my delema. 

The lock on the radiator neck is a drive fit over that cast neck.  As I found when ours rusted off.

I found that you could find old style fuel tank caps that were the right size - those back in the day before emission control so it had a cap vent (so ok for a non-pressurised system) and use their locking ring.  The right tank had  a locking ring of suitable diameter to drive over the TD6 cast neck when you chopped it off the neck of the fuel tank.  You could even end up with a chrome plated cap if you chose.

IIRC the one I used came from a Mark 2 Ford (UK) Zephyr - which won't help you very much I'd guess but a junk yard raid might produce something suitable.

Also when your track adjusters are breaking like that check the amount of flap in the slides for the front idler.  If it is flapping and you put in a higher grade thread you can start breaking the bolts out of the front recoil spring support or even break the recoil spring retaining rods.  Been there, done that.  No T-shirt.

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Rick,

Good old trucks, Hop you dont regret letting them go? I did a similar thing 20 years ago with a antique car. Most days I dont miss it. I just dont sell much but I need to get rid of some projects too.

Good work on the TD6 keeping it going!

 Regards,

 Chris

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you Mike, Ian, and Chris for your replies. Mike, how do I tell if the rollers are worn or if they are the IH or Berco ones?  I assume by "building up" you are refering to welding them to build up the edges, as one of the owners did on the rear drive sprockets to build them up again?  As for the transmission dipstick, on page 27 of the owners manual, on the right side of the lubrication diagraghm, it shows, "240 hrs UGL Transmission Oil Level Bayonet Guage and Filler Item no. 17", on page 30 you can see the filler cap. Not sure either what that all was sposed to exist. As for the odd adjuster nut, I think someone added a lock to the nuts, maybe as a quick fix like Chris did? Still haven't had time to sort that mess out yet but from Mike's help it looks like I might have bigger issues. 

Ian, I like your plan for using the filler neck. Tho now that the thermostat was changed, tempuratures seem to be good and no leakage yet, What year Mark 2? or Zepher? Did you soldier yours on or just drive it on gently? Define flapping? do you mean bearings bad, wiggling back and forth? Everything looks tight for the front idler but no good way to get weight off it to check. Seems between yours and Mikes advice I'll have to find a way to double check all these items. 

No regrets Chris, hoping to find one 57 pickup all running and needing minor work and paint. No big hurry. Next weekend I'm sposed to take the 86' Camaro to the car show in town. Thats enough fun to make up for sending off the 2 trucks for now. If I get bored and run out of things to do, dads 53' Chevy 2 dr car needs my attention badly, I started on it when I was 16 and still haven't gotten anywere. 

Hope yall had a good 4th, 

keep safe and happy pushing

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