Jump to content

52 Super C genera questions,,


Recommended Posts

Folks, I am brand spanking new to the Red Power world, though Dad raised me up on an F12 that I could never crank start. That’s another story though. I just acquired a 52 Super C and need to ask for advice on several issues. 

1. Fuel. I’ve read that ethanol laced, non-leaded gasoline can be harmful. Are there additives that ought to be added to today’s gasoline to reduce this problem?

2. In a similar vein, what type of motor oil would you folks recommend?

3. Similar question as to hydraulic fluid?

Thinking out loud:

I am going to rebuild the carburetor. I do not know the type since the carburetor appears to have been painted over by a previous owner. First step would be to disassemble the unit and clean it up. Then give it a try. If the tractor likes this, stop and go no further.

Otherwise, rebuild the current carburetor with a good kit. Are there any suggestions as to which kit to use? (Dad used kerosene as a cleaning fluid. What do you folks use in today’s world?)

If this fails, replace the carburetor. Again, recommendations as to which kit?

Lots of questions on my part. However, any suggestions or recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

We use a fuel stabilizer/ethanol treatment because we have had issues from ethanol in our fuel.

Straight 30 non-detergent oil I believe is what they want in those engines. 

On the Hydraulics of that I believe it holds a gallon maybe a gallon and a half I would definitely suggest using hytran it's a small enough quantity that the expense isn't much of an issue

Welcome here 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bitty:

Thanks for the reply. Going off to search for an owners manual for the machine. There’s a lot to learn and much to do!

Joe T.

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Joe T. said:

Bitty:

Thanks for the reply. Going off to search for an owners manual for the machine. There’s a lot to learn and much to do!

Joe T.

Here is a re-print of the original manual. Binder Books makes very good manuals. https://www.binderbooks.com/bb-1004315.html

Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, Joe T. said:

Folks, I am brand spanking new to the Red Power world, though Dad raised me up on an F12 that I could never crank start. That’s another story though. I just acquired a 52 Super C and need to ask for advice on several issues. 

1. Fuel. I’ve read that ethanol laced, non-leaded gasoline can be harmful. Are there additives that ought to be added to today’s gasoline to reduce this problem?

2. In a similar vein, what type of motor oil would you folks recommend?

3. Similar question as to hydraulic fluid?

Thinking out loud:

I am going to rebuild the carburetor. I do not know the type since the carburetor appears to have been painted over by a previous owner. First step would be to disassemble the unit and clean it up. Then give it a try. If the tractor likes this, stop and go no further.

Otherwise, rebuild the current carburetor with a good kit. Are there any suggestions as to which kit to use? (Dad used kerosene as a cleaning fluid. What do you folks use in today’s world?)

If this fails, replace the carburetor. Again, recommendations as to which kit?

Lots of questions on my part. However, any suggestions or recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

 

 

Could have three manufacturers of carburetor. Zenith 161x7 , Carter ut ,and never had marvel Schneider 

i m a sticker for data what was it before and what it after I do something.  Do compression test. Record reading. 

I do a vacuum test on it ,record it. After adjusting the carburetor to the highest steadily  vacuum  18 to 22 inches of vacuum is normal with steady needle . If not that needle will tell you where to look for issue from trouble shooting charts. 

. Also I’m  about throttle shaft. Wear , I always replace shahft in kit  or ad bushings to cut down on vacuum leakage.  Each carburetor has it own set of issues. 

After that your not done ,you want to record the vacuum on you rebuild carb. 

Take valve cover of and look at the condition of the rocker arm. They will be worn and you can’t set the valve lash. Need to remove the rocker arm and dress grid the radius on the rockers  to original  . Preset valve lash , start it warm it up and measure vacuum adjust carburetor  .record it. 

I also go into the governor next , replacement of springs on governor control rod. On the in side that aspiring for bumper and lever 

good luck with it 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

1. Ethanol fuel is fine because there is nothing in a Super C's fuel system for the ethanol to "melt" or whatever it supposedly does. These things will run on amazingly poor fuel and run well, but as it is so easy and inexpensive to put a little Sta-Bil or other fuel stabilizer in when you fill up, there is no reason not to.

1a. The whole notion that if you don't have lead fuel, your engine will self-destruct has been proven an old wives' tale. Leaded fuel has not been available to the general public for 20-ish years now, and all these tractors are still running fine. Not a single one of them grenaded due to lack of lead in the fuel.

1b. Lead additive/substitute contains no lead, because tetraethyl lead is no longer legal to put in anything but certain aviation fuels. There is no substitute for the functions that the lead provided. The additives are a complete waste of money, snake oil meant to make someone richer and provide you with a false sense of security. Same goes for all the "home brew" lead substitutes such as Marvel Mystery Oil. All they do is give you the warm fuzzies that you're protecting your engine, when you really aren't.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Matt, 560..., and Fan....

Thanks to each of you for your replies to my questions. It obvious that there is much to learn and do as I attempt to bring my Super C up to it’s maximum potential. Hopefully, I’ll take the time to post updates and personal experiences on this thread.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello and welcome! I've received many excellent suggestions that I've been able to use on this thread. Great bunch of knowledgeable folks here. 

Having a mid 1950's tractor  I've had many of the same questions and the answers you received are consistent. I've been fortunate that most of the suggestions allowed me to repair what I have rather then making new purchases. (Except tune up and maintenance where shortcuts don't pay.)

I'm surprised nobody asked for pictures. That's usually the first request!

Good luck. Paul 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/2/2019 at 2:09 PM, Matt Kirsch said:

1. Ethanol fuel is fine because there is nothing in a Super C's fuel system for the ethanol to "melt" or whatever it supposedly does. These things will run on amazingly poor fuel and run well, but as it is so easy and inexpensive to put a little Sta-Bil or other fuel stabilizer in when you fill up, there is no reason not to.

1a. The whole notion that if you don't have lead fuel, your engine will self-destruct has been proven an old wives' tale. Leaded fuel has not been available to the general public for 20-ish years now, and all these tractors are still running fine. Not a single one of them grenaded due to lack of lead in the fuel.

1b. Lead additive/substitute contains no lead, because tetraethyl lead is no longer legal to put in anything but certain aviation fuels. There is no substitute for the functions that the lead provided. The additives are a complete waste of money, snake oil meant to make someone richer and provide you with a false sense of security. Same goes for all the "home brew" lead substitutes such as Marvel Mystery Oil. All they do is give you the warm fuzzies that you're protecting your engine, when you really aren't.

I agree. After years and years of hard use including decades of unleaded fuel, the C113 head of my C had noticeable wear on the valve seats, but it wasn't anything that affected performance whatsoever. The thing would win just about every pull it entered, in fact. If and when the time comes to rework it, the replacement seats are harder to deal with unleaded fuel. But certainly don't break everything down just to do valve seats on account of unleaded.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...