Jump to content
QLD 706

Farmall 706D Head Removal

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone, do any of the D282 owners have any special way of lifting the head so that it stays level. I am using a chain block for removal and reinstall but need to keep it level so it does not damage the head gasket. Are there specific points to lift from?

20190817_142356.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never pulled a head with thoughts of reusing a head gasket.  I would suggest replacing it. 

Edit: Nevermind i think I misunderstood your question. I have a couple of bolt on lifting loops I use to pull heads with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Zach, the main concerns are lifting in a stable position as the head is very heavy. After the head gasket has been replaced (new one purchased), I have evenly lower the head onto it. Being careful not to damage the new gasket.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a u shaped bracket made of angle iron that fit many heads lifting by valve cover bolts. Easy to balance end to end and usually close enough side to side. For the D282 there was a pair of special alignment studs that kept gasket in place and aligned head.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We always used that 7/16" in the rear corner shown in the picture and 5/16" on the front corner intake flange on the other side.  Used a engine chain that was adjustable from Summit.  Fuel tank support has to be removed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

be sure to take the head to a reputable machinist, we had ours off twice and the place in St Joseph, MO said they resurfaced it and it was good two different times. They said they had it level. After two headgaskets and off two times in a month we took it to a guy that does machine work in Kingston, MO, he is a puller and had built IH motors for years we found out about. He said it was not planed with the proper type machine with hard knives. He could tell by the milling marks on it before he showed us the measurements. 

He took care of it and we never had another issue. Third times the charm in this case - and YES those dang heads are heavy!!!!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We always lifted and lowered ousted by hand. two men, one on each end. Thx-Ace

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Snoshoe, that sounds like it would balance quite well, the two block roll pins that keep the gasket in place are there.

Hi 460, another good way to balance the head using the existing fasteners, fuel tank (another story) and cradle were removed.

Hi Searcyfarms, I am in Australia, the head is going to long standing and reputable company that services diesel heads for tractor sellers in my area.

Hi Ace, that is an option but the only help I could muster at such short notice was my Maine Coon cat. I used the chain block because you have more control if the unexpected arises.

So thank you to all of the replies to this post and for your time, the head is now off. The image shows that the head gasket blew between the 2nd and third cylinders with no damage. I was expecting burnt valves and this could still be the case, the good news is that the sleeves have hardly any lip but new rings will be installed.

The advice that you have given will definitely be used, especially to the lower the head back on.

20190908_115250.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, searcyfarms said:

be sure to take the head to a reputable machinist, we had ours off twice and the place in St Joseph, MO said they resurfaced it and it was good two different times. They said they had it level. After two headgaskets and off two times in a month we took it to a guy that does machine work in Kingston, MO, he is a puller and had built IH motors for years we found out about. He said it was not planed with the proper type machine with hard knives. He could tell by the milling marks on it before he showed us the measurements. 

He took care of it and we never had another issue. Third times the charm in this case - and YES those dang heads are heavy!!!!

 

To bad ,hate to here that . Glad you got it 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can attest to those heads being heavy.  My dad straddled the block standing on the frame rails and lifted the head off and set it on my shoulder.  I must have been 14 or so at the time.  I must admit I peed myself a little when he did that.  I lost my Dad this past spring but this post made me remember that work.  I learned so much from that man.  We still have the old 706D....I'd never part with it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, pirlbeck said:

I know you are in Australia, but I would try to get my hands on a set of ARP high strength head studs from this place. Besides helping with head gasket life, they will guide the head back on so you don't damage the new gasket.

https://www.murphysmotorservice.com/Fasteners.php

Studs or bolts from CAT.............

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use alignment studs to put head back on. Make some out of old head bolts and buy good head gasket from case IH. Replacing head bolts is a good thing too. Coat gasket with 4-5 coats of aluminum paint, both sides, before setting on block.

retorque head after it is warmed up good.

Been through all this with my 560 and learned the hard way what happens when you don’t do it this way.

Got these instructions from Danny Anderson. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 706 and later 560 etc have roll pins in corner of block to properly locate the head gasket.  Before that we had to use the proper guide stud that fit the hole in gasket perfectly to align  gasket.  If the gasket shifts  just a trifle toward edge of fire ring it will not last long if at all. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 went to using CAT bolts in the D-282s have not any problems and the bolts from Ziegler were cheaper than thru caseIH Doesn't hurt at all to have a son working as a CAT partsman an can match up some of this stuff when he has extra time

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi and thanks to Pirlbeck, TP from Central PA, Ohio Farmer. Pete 23 and R190. Thank you for your suggestions and I will take all replies on board. To restore this tractor properly is a long process. When parts are removed, they are cleaned and etch primed for a respray. The eight blade fan was incredibly dirty, it has been blasted and is now being hand finished for a rust conversion coat before the etch prime coat. If only we could all get the restored tin work back on asap but it is not as easy as that, pulling the 706 apart has raised more issues. To me it is a great model and therefore worth the effort. Thanks again to all for your help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...