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Where is my sentry? - Anyone Have a C3 ?


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so i got the tractor back from its A/C overhaul and was curious about the sentry since one of the guys here was looking for one and said hopefully you have a gen3 - I had to take my dash all apart to run wiring for a new led light bar i installed and I'll be danged if i could find it. 

So now i am even more curious LOL

You can call me stupid already because i dont know where its and and I also didnt look in the manual i have - its just an owners manual so not sure it would be in there anyway. 

Also added door opener kit to the lefthand door and fixed the edge of the roof where it was rusting long day on the ladder, rear tires, cab fenders and steps 

 

sentry1.jpg

sentry2.jpg

sentry3.jpg

sentry4.jpg

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theses sentry threads are getting like oil threads.   yep run the test harness if you want to rebuild the trans.  The guys out there saying run the test harness are putting bad advice out there. 

I would never run one without a sentry.......even the home made one would be a better option than that stupid test harness welding things together when things go south.  IMO people who say it's ok to

IT IS NOT OK!!!!.     Its people putting out freaking TERRIBLE advice   Mike

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oh well heck, what am i testing? did it come that way or something someone put in to replace it? i have only had it for about 2 yrs and its had a lot of stuff done to it - is this a good or bad thing? 

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The Sentry module was "problematic" after years of use.  CIH didn't want to mess with them at all, so they made a simple "test harness", which was actually meant to use to test to see if the Sentry module was working or the problem when an issue that pointed toward the Sentry came up.  But, the tractor will work with the harness installed, so years ago when you could still get the modules, people compared the price of the module with the test harness and guess which was cheaper?  (This is still the case.)  Well, a lot got put in, and a lot of tractors are running them.  Is it good or bad......... well...... it works.  Ideal is the module, but they are almost impossible to find that work, and no one seems to want to build new or be able to repair the old.  Mike Links is the '88 series guru.  If you want a ton more info, talk with him.  He's on here, but don't recall his forum name. 

 http://www.triplertractors.com/

 

On another note, a member here built his own with simple basic parts.  

 

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i guess if its ok to use one I shouldnt worry about it, it seems to work fine and has never acted strange - i dont use it like a REAL farmer does i just use it for batwing mowing and occasional tillage. 

We have only put about 60 hours on it since we got it

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2 minutes ago, Thesd5488 said:

Your lucky it’s already been removed tractor will run forever now

Yeah, I'd probably just leave it in there and forget about it too.  I put in a few at the dealer and sent them on their way, lol. 

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2 minutes ago, searcyfarms said:

i guess if its ok to use one I shouldnt worry about it, it seems to work fine and has never acted strange - i dont use it like a REAL farmer does i just use it for batwing mowing and occasional tillage. 

We have only put about 60 hours on it since we got it

You’ll be fine I’ve got them out there with serval Thousand hours on them owners wish they did it sooner

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1 minute ago, searcyfarms said:

We have only put about 60 hours on it since we got it

I put about 100 hours a year on a Cub Cadet....... and I don't mow all that much with it really.  But I USE it. 

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wshoooo i feel better now, so side note, my wife is helping me today - my country boy forearms would not fit between the ends of the evaporator and the cab roof edges and get up around the front the cavity between it and then windshield wiper motor area. I mounted a big led light up there today between the yellow lights on the cab. So she was putting the washers/nuts on the bolts that i was fishing through from the where i drilled the holes on the outside. She get the ratchet for her, she starts tightening them up, she says how tight do you want them and i said oh i dont know pretty tight and she said ok i try a little more then shes that good i said i dont know i cant tell, she says ok how about a little more and she sticks her tongue out and grunts a little and i said yup that perfect, she said huh? i said if you have to stick your tongue out and grunt its pretty dang tight 🙂🤣

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You won't like that light up there.  Glare on the windows and off the hood will be awful.  That's why most lights are mounted low, not up above the windows on the cab.  The Magnums had lights up there, and the switch had a position that included all but those.  If there is any dust, it reflects it too and makes it hard to see. 

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17 minutes ago, searcyfarms said:

oh well poop these went a wasted day then, maybe it will work ok for roading over to my buddies coming home from mowing then

Blinding oncoming traffic is never a good thing either........

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yea i would switch it off if i met someone, its a 7 mile trip on rural blacktop so rarely do i ever meet a vehicle on that road but of course if i did i would dim the lights

 

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Now it's okay to run a test harness? What about all the transmissions that have grenaded due to both the high and low sides being engaged at the same time because the sentry module wasn't there to detect that the one side hadn't disengaged before engaging the other?

Every other thread on this says the sentry is absolutely necessary and a test harness is flirting with disaster? Now it's perfectly okay. What am I missing?

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11 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Now it's okay to run a test harness? What about all the transmissions that have grenaded due to both the high and low sides being engaged at the same time because the sentry module wasn't there to detect that the one side hadn't disengaged before engaging the other?

Every other thread on this says the sentry is absolutely necessary and a test harness is flirting with disaster? Now it's perfectly okay. What am I missing?

Opinions vary . I myself would put a sentry in it, new if needed. It would be cheaper than fixing the transmission if it grenades itself . It's like having an oil filter on the engine. If something goes wrong it protects from more damage happening

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I should add if it's anything like the Magnum series we needed an input shaft. It was $3,500 . When a 5x88 goes in two gears at a time it welds the shaft to the clutches iirc. Mike Links has posted pics of damage caused by them before 

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I would never run one without a sentry.......even the home made one would be a better option than that stupid test harness welding things together when things go south.  IMO people who say it's ok to throw the sentry in the Jing weeds don't understand what it actually does.  

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so if you have a test harness i place - i noticd there is a big chunk of relays associated with it, does that stay? can you just unplug the test harness and plug the sentry in if its been converted is there more stuff that goes in besides that little test pigtail thing? 

 

 

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28 minutes ago, searcyfarms said:

so if you have a test harness i place - i noticd there is a big chunk of relays associated with it, does that stay? can you just unplug the test harness and plug the sentry in if its been converted is there more stuff that goes in besides that little test pigtail thing? 

 

 

The test harness is put in place of the sentry to bypass the fact that you just eliminated the safety feature built in the tractor

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They both use the weatherpack 6 prong plugs. Take the test harness all the way out and install the sentry for normal operation. As others say; don't run the test harness. Your asking for trouble. 

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Reading this post makes me so glad that we skipped the 50 series and went straight from the 86 series to the 7100 series Magnums. No Sentry to give you the finger if it has a bad day. The Sentry system is what gave the 50 series ( what few of them that were around) a bad name. 

Just out of curiosity. What does a Sentry module cost now?

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34 minutes ago, Reichow7120 said:

Reading this post makes me so glad that we skipped the 50 series and went straight from the 86 series to the 7100 series Magnums. No Sentry to give you the finger if it has a bad day. The Sentry system is what gave the 50 series ( what few of them that were around) a bad name. 

Just out of curiosity. What does a Sentry module cost now?

I think you can buy a 5x88 series and put a new sentry in it for less than a 71xx Magnum in similar condition. I think the sentry made now are just as reliable as the electrical boxes that control the 3 PT and MFD on the Magnum tractors. We had to get a new one for the one Magnum and it wasn't cheap

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14 minutes ago, bitty said:

I think you can buy a 5x88 series and put a new sentry in it for less than a 71xx Magnum in similar condition. I don't think the sentry made now are just as reliable as the electrical boxes that control the 3 PT and MFD on the Magnum tractors. We had to get a new one for the one Magnum and it wasn't cheap

Both our Magnums still have the original hitch and MFD controllers on them.  One's getting towards 10,000 hrs the other has over 7,000 on it. I just know the reputation of them around here because of the Sentry weren't great. The computers on them were way more reliable than the computers of the early 80s. 

To be brutally honest. If a 50 series is that much cheaper than a 7100 series you have to stop and ask yourself. Why is that the case? The first 7100 series were 87 models. The last 50 series were 85s. 2 years difference. We know the rear ends were identical practically. The cabs other than the door, control layout, and dash were damn close to each other. That leaves the engine, and Transmission. No one has ever bad mouthed a 400 series engine that i know of. The powershift once the complicated shift valve was fine tuned is way simpler than the Sentry. That's just my take on it.

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