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1086 major trans. rebuilt

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This spring the T/A low side finally die.So in the workshop to fix the long list of other stuff ; super heavy t/a , t/a pump and gear , 8 pads clutch , reverse gear , torsion bar bushing and seal , new lighter park lever and spring , put bushing in cover for speed lever , the rear t/a counter gear(missing one half tooth) , shifting kit for range lever , fix reverse idler(collar was backward + ??? see pic below) , and many more. You like pics ? . Here are some pics. More to come.

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Removing cab was tricky , but with trusty hough h30b I slid the fork under the cab frame rail and was able to lift it off. Pushing the frame inside I was max out on hydraulic. see pic

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Cool. Sounds like you will have a good tractor again nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself 

do I spot a Massey ??  😱

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Been there done that many times in my younger days tons of stuff to unhook and take lose too I made a sling that took the cabs off and used a 560 with highlift farmhand loader to take cabs off I didn't think they were too heavy because it lifted it off very easy but if your doing both front and rear trans housings its a must

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I don't know which is more work, taking cab completely off or doing one end at a time by leaving 86 series cab on going for one end at a time.  By  leaving cab on you don't need that lifting power or room to do it and in the middle of winter, pretty cold working out side to get it off.  

I always had to remove cabs on the older tractors and that was not fun as we had our lift hook outside.  I only took the cab off of two 86 series and that was from a roll over and a building collapsing on tractors.  Also, the way we lift 86 series cabs was through open doors on cab with tool  going under top frame work of cab.  

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I always used lift straps that went directly to the lower cab supports that's the strongest part of the cab

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44 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

I always used lift straps that went directly to the lower cab supports that's the strongest part of the cab

If the tool Pete used was the IH designed tool, it lifts by the upper rops frame. It's easy to assemble and the cab hangs perfectly balanced.
 

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Years ago I made two brackets that bolted to the frame rails and would then bolt onto the front cab mount brackets. Rear  of cab is supported by the IH cab stands. This allowed us to split the tractor behind the motor and roll out the speed housing and rear housing together. Extra care must be taken to make sure that the front half is stable and secure and can’t move. We have done it this way for quite some time  and have had no problems. 

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3 hours ago, Maynard said:

If the tool Pete used was the IH designed tool, it lifts by the upper rops frame. It's easy to assemble and the cab hangs perfectly balanced.
 

That is the tool I used.    

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I'm back . Thing are coming back slow but steady , had to put about 3/8 inch of shim behind the reverse gear for unknown reason , while the machine shop had the speed cover to put a bushing i ask them to also put a grease point in it .    Somebody ask about some M F , well they are 3 of them , here some pics ...                                 Plus my very first paint job (it's a 1512 could't find the right sticker , so i put the next best thing .)

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