Jump to content

TD6 Dozer Rebuild


Pbach
 Share

Recommended Posts

On 8/12/2019 at 4:47 PM, Pbach said:

Good news: I was finally able to crank over the engine the other day with the new ring gear installed.

Bad news: when checking compression in each cylinder I found the following-

cylinder 1(rad) 35psi

cylinder 2: 45psi

cylinder 3 :65psi

cylinder 4(firewall) 100+psi

After doing a little research it would seem I have cylinder wear, valves not sealing, or a bad head gasket. Does this seem like a bad head gasket scenario since cylinder 4 has great compression? Anyone have any advice on what to do next?

Regards,

Peter

B440F0DC-6897-44CB-82AF-9F0925687995.jpeg

My 53 TD6 was 30 psi across all four holes. Removed head, water damage in 1 and 4, water jacket on head gasket blown 3 of 4 holes. Heavy taper in all 4 holes. Needs real help.  Oiled drained pan is loose but must lift carriage to remove cross spring and get to pan and rod bolts. Long Long Long way to go......cyliders, pistons rings bearings , rods and mains, and still do not know about the running gear. This could be a MONEY PIT. But i am 71 and have SS to fix it with. LOL

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Few pics of the dozer tilt cylinders that I added this weekend.

8A721A7E-3C29-4213-B4A8-81EC51A5D341.jpeg

0A475A7B-2DA0-4D59-9220-77B72A88BFC8.png

03CF8499-5C8E-4112-A0E4-4EBF386175C3.jpeg

04A3F24D-97BD-49CA-8E2E-EE464654A0A2.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

 

I have a few questions on the diesel side of my td6. The pressure gage on the side of the diesel pump has never moved out of the red (low pressure) range, however the dozer still runs on diesel... This was a brand new gage that I installed from Steiner. (IHS532) I have noticed that while using the machine the dozer seems to lack full power at times. If I let the engine idle for a while and then push the lever to full throttle the machine responds with full power. However, if I run the engine at full throttle for a while, the power gradually decreases. It seems to me like the fuel pump can't keep up with the demand of engine. Also, sometimes the engine will randomly shut down due to fuel starvation. After several seconds I am able to restart on diesel and back to normal. I have noticed that air builds up in the system and I have to bleed the air almost every time I use the machine.  I have also noticed that diesel fuel does leak into the injection pump oil sump over time. I am tempted to pull off the injection pump cover to see if anything is going on in there. Any pointers? I should check that fuel filters are not restricting flow and make sure my lines are not crimped as well. 

I will try and find some pictures of the pump. Meanwhile, here are some pictures from this weekend.

 

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

scavenge valve sticking (fuel in pump)

supply issue,plumb a temp filtered line direct to pump with 5 g

and try it,  4 gal will be in main tank fast.if not then return issue.

run return in to bucket. repeat only then investigate pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/3/2020 at 6:57 AM, Pbach said:

Yep should be nice having a functioning charging system now. Having a hard time reading this but does it look like 808 hours on this machine?? I am not sure how many digits are supposed to be showing but this machine has had plentyyy of use.

 

8A4B339E-88DC-4FC0-A420-C816FA475D05.jpeg

So the hour meter on the WD6 has 5 digits, showing 12###hrs on mine.  that cover can be removed and the unit cleaned as the paper gasket that sealed it most likely broke down years ago and dirt and oil got in there and it is probably as dirty as mine was.  Cleaned it up and put it back together now you can read it only thing is the security wire seal is gone, people just going to have to trust that the hrs shown hasn't been tampered with..............

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a picture of the pump from back when I bought the machine. It is an IH model. I need to do some reading up on past posts about the scavenger valves sticking. What would cause the pressure gauge to show low (practically zero) pressure even if the machine seems to run OK most of the time?

I'll try those suggestions and get a more recent picture of the pump/gauge next time I'm back to the farm.

I may have to take apart that hour meter just out of curiosity.

 

Peter

image.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haven’t gone back through all your posts, but you mention checking the fuel filters .. trying the simple things first is always a good idea... and a dirty fuel filter or an improper filter could cause the fuel starvation issues that you describe... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/3/2021 at 11:56 AM, Pbach said:

Here is a picture of the pump from back when I bought the machine. It is an IH model. I need to do some reading up on past posts about the scavenger valves sticking. What would cause the pressure gauge to show low (practically zero) pressure even if the machine seems to run OK most of the time?

I'll try those suggestions and get a more recent picture of the pump/gauge next time I'm back to the farm.

I may have to take apart that hour meter just out of curiosity.

 

Peter

image.png

maybe these will help you.  There is a screen in the bottom of the pump on the scavenger but its strange as it looks like your stock pump is bypassed.

Scan_20210504 (2).jpg

Scan_20210504.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me what pump I have? Does it even have a scavenger valve? I dont see the flat head fitting on the pump... 

clone, what do you mean by my pump is bypassed? It is missing several fuel lines in that pic that I posted since I had to make new ones 

I ordered new fuel filters to see if that solves the fuel issue. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Pbach said:

 

clone, what do you mean by my pump is bypassed? It is missing several fuel lines in that pic that I posted since I had to make new ones 

 

So from what I see in your picture of the pump, between the pump and the starter is a cast cylinder with an open fitting on top, that is the diesel fuel pump,  under that I see an aluminum body that looks like it has a fuel line going into it, that looks like the pump being used, that is why I say it is bypassed. 

Scan_20210505.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wish there was a way to sort /catalog photos

would have been faster to have driven out un tarped cleaned up ,drive back and made supper.

best I found

IIRC goes thru water filter ,first filter then suck pump then other filter  pump then out top of pump to tank

where are you taking the reading on top?

still say supply issue< 5% return pinched +- 10% gummed up

2009_0919Image0223.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"mmi" if I would have been smart enough to post the picture right side up, it shows the fuel flow through the system as:

from tank

1. water separator (suction)

2.auxiliary fuel filter (suction)

3. primary pump (suction)

4. final fuel filter (pressurized)

5. injection pump head (this is where pressure gauge is and return valve) (pressurized)

6. to injectors / return to tank (this goes down through the scavenger screen and pump then to tank from what I understand)

after being pushed through the final filter it should read 40-50lbs of pressure (manual says 45-50 but I was told 40 is fine too). 

"PBach" from what I read the A pump is a replacement for earlier pumps and the B pump no longer has a scavenger valve from what I read, so I would guess (ya' know how good a guess is) that if you don't have the flat head fitting it's a type B.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Here are a couple pictures of my pump and fuel lines. I added the fuel pressure gage later as it was just capped off as seen in previous pic. Is this the correct location to measure the pressure? 
 

I installed new fuel filters and cleaned out the water trap. After bleeding the system, the pressure gage is still reading in the red zone and the engine sounds like it is still lacking fuel at full throttle. 

the pump is indeed a B pump according to the tag and I havnt seen much info on them. The return line comes off the back of the pump which is strange. 
 

Any other advice?

Appreciate any help.

 

thanks,

Pete

 

7D21C7F9-5525-4325-946B-03CC6C27E2D5.jpeg

3EF876BC-FBB1-4D50-924C-5F06EBA2D3D2.png

5651AB8A-DAEB-439B-967A-146D5B426437.png

0212DC23-1C30-4096-BAEB-644A667ABDC8.png

AFD9E1C5-D825-4BD4-8468-F761C6C97E5F.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I want to thank you for a great thread and awesome work pictures. I took apart the engine pressure plate on mine weeks ago and forgot how the broken pressure plate springs went in, went to your rebuild and shot a picture with my phone for reassembly. Been a pleasure to read also.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, busted knuckles said:

I want to thank you for a great thread and awesome work pictures. I took apart the engine pressure plate on mine weeks ago and forgot how the broken pressure plate springs went in, went to your rebuild and shot a picture with my phone for reassembly. Been a pleasure to read also.

Appreciate the feedback on my post! Glad to see it has helped someone out. Yep those pressure plate springs had me stumped for a bit too. Just saw that oil was leaking out of one of the final drive compartments so may have another tear down in the future... Also working on a cub final drive failure at the moment. Always something to work on haha

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/30/2021 at 1:39 AM, Fatwalker said:

Get rid of the compression fittings, they always cause problems.

What would you recommend using? Flexible hose like the fuel supply/return have already?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Flare fittings, or if you want to go flexible Something like JIC. Compression fittings are not used in home heating for many reasons besides leaking. Also not aloud in automotive in PA. I had a diesel air compressor for awhile, I think it was a sullair. It had compression fittings all over it and the failed all the time. It had little lines running all over for governors and pressure switches, gauges etc. if they were not leaking they would break off. The ones in domestic plumbing used to not be to bad, but now they took the lead out off the brass and there crap now. Half the time I have to wrap the feral several times with Teflon to stop the drips. Teflon is a big no, no when working with injectors with a nozzle size smaller than a human hair.

 Sounds like your sucking air. But then again we had and old Khoring excavator that would randomly stop for hours then run again for days or weeks. After about ten years of changing fittings, hoses and filter bases always thinking that was the problem. We drained and pulled the fuel tank and found about 2" of stick that had fallen off of somebody's hillbilly fuel gauge. That stick was getting sucked up in the fuel line under vacuum and stopping the fuel, then when I would start taking stuff apart to try and figure it out the vacuum would break and the stick would fall and hide the the problem. Same thing if you just threw your hands up and went for lunch, come back hit the button and would come right back to life. Like I said took many years of trying the easy and not so easy fixes before it had to be in the tank. Figured it out by running off a 5 gallon bucket for weeks.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...