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Think that’s about as good as it’s gonna get. 

Peter, Soaking with the ATF+ acetone will help to loosen stuck rings. The oil in the wet test will temporarily seal the rings to boost pressure. If rings are stuck, the "juice " may loosen up the ring

Here is another pic of when the dozer was first dropped off in pieces from Hank in Indiana. It didn’t run and was practically seized up with a bad ring gear. Neighbors were probably very confused.

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On 10/27/2019 at 11:05 PM, Pbach said:

I made some good progress the last week. Brakes are back on and the clutch compartment is closed up (hopefully for good). I started it up and went for a quick test drive on gas. It turns great! Now onto the easy stuff haha. I appreciate everyone’s interest in my little project I got goin on.

 

Pete

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Awesome job on the brakes. I need to learn how you replaced the brake lining. I need to doe that too on my T6.

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Check out these two links, I did my brakes the same way. 

 

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=5177&start=15

https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/69684-td6-brake-band-change-im-stuck/

 

The brake lining, rivets, and tools I bought from mcmaster. Will need 3/8" End Mill for counter sunk holes, 3/16" tool for hollow rivets, 3/8" drift punch.

I used 3M 90 adhesive spray and then riveted the bands and clamped over night. Let me know if you need anything else.

Peter

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I was able to get my positive ground alternator working today by replacing the three wire regulator with a one wire setup. Then I flashed the alternator by briefly touching the alternator case (positive ground) to the terminal 1. I have a small enough pulley that I was getting 40-60 amps of charging. I dont believe it’s possible to have a three wire setup with a positive ground alternator because the dummy light will not work and the alternator will never get energized. Now I have an extra alternator I need to find a project for haha

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Pete,

Glad you got that working! Nice when they charge and start when you want! 

Regards,

 Chris

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Yep should be nice having a functioning charging system now. Having a hard time reading this but does it look like 808 hours on this machine?? I am not sure how many digits are supposed to be showing but this machine has had plentyyy of use.

 

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  • 3 months later...

Update on this project:

I replaced all 4 hydraulic hoses and removed the broken leaf spring. I have searched around and seems like no one has ever had a broken spring but me haha. I was just able to remove it without pulling the engine again which was a huge relief. If only I did this job when the engine was out the first time... Anyway I am in the market for a new spring pack since I don’t see any way to separate the individual pieces without grinding off the crimped retainer things. John from general gear said he might have a spring pack but $$. 

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…….do    you have the broken pieces  ??'''if so weld them up...…..truck springs  (6x4 trucks) are a bit tricky but those old leaf springs weld up ok.Have welded them on several   old IH crawlers

…….weld them like you would cast iron.....i.e. heat the whole leaf  ...warm it   up and weld with Hy Ten Seven    rods or regular 7018.....It will work fine on that old tractor...……..

...if you don't have the missing pieces , just get a spring maker to make ''the missing leaf''...….should not cost much

Mike

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Mike, 

I unfortunately do not have the broken piece, looks to me like it has been broken for some time. 

Is there an easy way to separate/reassemble the spring pack? I don't have much experience with these.

I need to look at it more closely but i think there is a center "carriage-looking" bolt and then the two side retainers. Can these come off without a grinder?

 

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1 hour ago, Pbach said:

Mike, 

I unfortunately do not have the broken piece, looks to me like it has been broken for some time. 

Is there an easy way to separate/reassemble the spring pack? I don't have much experience with these.

I need to look at it more closely but i think there is a center "carriage-looking" bolt and then the two side retainers. Can these come off without a grinder?

 

It appears that welding is an accepted repair if done correctly but you do not have the broken piece. I would find a spring company and have a leaf made, it might be cheaper than buying a used equalizer spring. Be careful when taking the center bolt out as the spring leaves are loaded, I used large C clamps to hold the spring pressure when taking out the center bolt (automotive)

IH TD6 TD9 equalizer spring.jpg

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It was much easier to disassemble the spring pack than i thought. Just had to remove center bolt and the pieces slid right out though the two guides. No load on the springs in the pack.

I am going to look into having one made. Thanks for the help.

 

Peter

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Peter, there is a company up by the Fox Valley Appleton WI area that sells springs of all makes and sizes. When I talk to the boss next I'll ask the phone number, they may all ready have a spring leaf or spring pack designed or one that will work. if you have the size of the leaf and thickness they can match one up. I'm by mine this weekend and will check if I have anything close here that will work for you. You have come along way on your crawlers, I'm trying to find a blade assy. like yours to have for mine also as it's much stronger to push with that blade setup than mine. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was able to have a local truck suspension shop make me a leaf for me. Cost $100 but much cheaper than it woulda been to buy the whole pack and ship it. 

 

Question for you guys: Do any of you know what these two C-channel brackets are for? I have one for each td6 but they are a little different.

Found some more crawler parts the other day including a wrench, foot rests and what looks to be the hand crank holder? Not sure if this tool box is meant for a crawler yet but it is red.

 

Pete

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After looking at the toolbox more closely, I think it might go right under the seat! 

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  • 2 months later...

Finally got the old dozer out of the sleepy suburbs and to our farm where it can do some real work. Not too long after using it, there was an electrical fire which was quickly taken care of with the fire extinguisher bungeed on the diesel tank per osha standards. It was a successful first day of using it in the woods to widen trails and push trees until the right hand track slipped off. The ground was muddy with roots and vines that worked their way into the track to knock It off. It was quite the effort to get the track back on. 
 

After many attempts with pry-bars and sinking jacks we decided to switch up the plan. We dug a trench down to clay under the drawbar and using gravel, cement blocks, rail road ties, and a 20T bottle jack, we were able to jack the back end up. Then, using the blade hydraulics, we were able to get the front end up, bringing the tracks completely out of the mud. We cleaned everything up nice and good and had to remove several tread plates, as they would hit the side of the frame. 
 

Using my atv winch we kept lateral tension on the track while slowly rotating the track forward until the track popped back on with a satisfying “clink”. Needless to say, we tightened the tracks immediately after.

 

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First outing and getting the full dozer experience 

Seriously good on getting the fire out

Those tracks always come off in the nastiest places, crew is still all smiles and thumbs up though

 

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Pete,

Thanks for the great pictures and update! The dozer looks much more at home on the farm too! I had a track come off once. It went hback on easier that your situation. You were determined! And you got it! Nice work!

Regards,

 Chris

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Guys,

I had a hydraulic hose failure the other day while pushin over some cedar trees. They cedars roots dont go too deep because of rock so its easy to push em over a little, then dig up the roots with the blade. Anyway, the suction (low pressure) hose on the front failed and I had to quit for the day. I am going to replace all 4 old hoses with new ones and it got me thinking how nice it would be to add a tilt feature to the blade while I drain and break the system.

If I replaced one diagonal link with a tilt cylinder would it work? I will need to do some plumbing and add a control valve.

Thoughts?

Peter

 

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Yes that will work nicely for bulldozer like yours, not effective for IH style bullgrader unless there is lots of slop in joints which most now have

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Here is a good thread covering your questions with pros and cons, conman being NZ😁

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a little tree clearing with some fresh hydraulic hoses. Adding tilt soon. Harvest is here.

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