Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Think that’s about as good as it’s gonna get. 

Peter, Soaking with the ATF+ acetone will help to loosen stuck rings. The oil in the wet test will temporarily seal the rings to boost pressure. If rings are stuck, the "juice " may loosen up the ring

Here is another pic of when the dozer was first dropped off in pieces from Hank in Indiana. It didn’t run and was practically seized up with a bad ring gear. Neighbors were probably very confused.

Posted Images

Pete,

 You have been busy de-greasing the insides on the tranny! Looks great. I can see gears now. Keep up the work on it. I know there are a lot of moves to get it operational again. too!

Thanks for posting the progress update. 

Regards,

 Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Both clutches are now back in, tranny is filled with the proper oil. Next on the list is rebuilding the brake bands and then I can button up clutch compartment. 

133E87C2-B2DE-4FEF-BA22-02C0391F7D7D.jpeg

45D46B5D-A07F-4922-B02E-FCD61DD1C780.jpeg

B38E387A-2C59-4F69-9F2C-24D151ACD1A2.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete,

You are in to the details like the brakes! Nice work. That's a lot of effort, and cost, but you will like them when they function and you can spin on a dime!

These pictures will help others when they get to these projects on their tractors too! Thanks for the documentation!

I did get a glimpse of my TD6 Sunday. The young man that has it is a good steward of tractors. He may store it inside for the winter if it stays at his place? Said he pushed over some trees with it a few days ago. 

Regards,

 Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

I made some good progress the last week. Brakes are back on and the clutch compartment is closed up (hopefully for good). I started it up and went for a quick test drive on gas. It turns great! Now onto the easy stuff haha. I appreciate everyone’s interest in my little project I got goin on.

 

Pete

9024B612-739F-4C78-81B5-2F108A2246F0.jpeg

4DDA64DD-CCA6-4A04-8828-E4C11CD8F76D.jpeg

49BD3F0B-4691-4AF1-87C4-A48BA487F3D0.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete,

 You have more than a little project! To me any way! Your making it look easy from this angle. Check out the new forum member with the T6. Nice unit.

Glad your work is paying off. Your doing it right. I have just been skirting around the edges. If mine still runs and moves, that good enough for now! I may need to see a picture of the WC too. I have been working on a WD for the last 3 weeks.

 Regards,

 Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Chris haha yes this has been consuming pretty much all of my spare time but I have learned a ton and aquired some more tools! This machine was on the verge of not being worthy to fix up, but glad I was able to bring it back to life. 

Here are a couple pics of our WC. I may have to visit the orange forum eventually for this one. It sometimes runs well but other times it huffs and puffs and starts running real rough and lunging forward. Havnt had much time to try and diagnose it yet, as it is about 3 hours away on our farm.

E8AA4932-DF5F-432D-8180-87539405D94C.png

342FBD29-F038-4BA5-9E80-C2F8DE3C0767.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete,

 You would be more than welcome over on the Allis forum too. The WC would fit right in and many folks to help you figure out why its not running up to par. Regards,

 Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know if the hydraulic valve/tank assembly has a built in oil filter? There are a few plugs on the valve, I’m guessing the big one is the drain but maybe one is access to a filter? I also found a weird bolt in the tank. I’ll try and get a picture of it. Hoses don’t look tooo bad just one with the shell torn that goes to a cylinder. Gotta head to the store tomorrow to get some big wrenches. Had our first snow the day before Halloween.

 

Pete

D8CC0E8E-8998-4A30-B128-A757C953DCF2.jpeg

F7BCDB28-2E0E-40AF-BB71-BB8E51EC5AA0.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Generally that vintage did not have filters in the hydraulics. Probably not even a screen in the suction side. Don't think I have ever been in or plumbed on that type of control valve.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete,

 When I look at your second to last picture, I thought you had maybe moved up north with KoO? The snow, the shop, the "cat", the bucket! You would fit right in with Joey!

Thanks again for the pictures! You have came a long way! You are very determined to have a dirt pushing machine!

That hydraulic piping route is pretty straight and to the point!😀

Regards,

 Chris

  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well after 5 months of work on this hunk of rusty iron, I am happy to say I was pushing some dirt yesterday!

Sorry for the dark pics but not much daylight when I get home from work to see anything. I changed the engine oil, injection pump oil, added coolant and put the belly and front guards on. Then finally put the blade on. Now need to get it out to the farm to be put to use. That will be a whole project on its own. Might be good for plowing snow for now. Lol

For the five minutes I was pushing around some dirt, logs, and stumps it was a thrill haha I think the work payed off. 

Now I am moving onto the electrical side of things. I am going to install an alternator (12v, 3 wire, positive ground) and hook up some LED lights. Anyone have suggestion on which alternator to get? Amps required? Brand?

 

Thanks for everyone’s help.

Pete

505A1443-CD27-42B1-8CB8-298E11450A1B.jpeg

1F576672-4C11-49F3-841C-9BA747E2AA75.jpeg

D13842CF-0903-45AD-A406-453ABB6B010D.jpeg

FF9FADB0-8DEA-4908-9D49-12C8C0D73D69.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

You could go GM delco 10si internally regulated 22-72amps were their range but they are negative ground and a dime a dozen. They don't need to be revd up as high to charge.

Nice work bet the fruits of your labour feel great

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete,

 I used a Denso alternator on my TD6. Mine is a one wire unit and I was a little skeptical but it works really well, and did not require as much room as a older 12 volt unit.  I have some pictures on my thread.

Awesome that your moving dirt! You have done a lot of work on this machine! Enjoy it!

Regards,

 Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Chris I was lookin at your thread and wire diagrams. I’m thinking of staying with positive ground. I found a Delco 10si that should work. This is the number. D110Si12V63P.

On another note I noticed a puddle of pink oil under the main clutch compartment. When I popped the circular cover I could see that the trans oil had been leaking in around the main drive seal. Has anyone had this happen? Are there replacement seals available? Also can I remove and replace seal from clutch compartment? Looks like there’s three bolts and a large retainer nut that come off.

from the diagram the seal is number 69 but has two different part numbers listed.

Thanks, 

Peter

1F2AD022-AE68-4BDC-8832-DDE0358B84BD.jpeg

E7BC5BA8-CA18-4204-AADA-B7EA29DDB600.jpeg

0CAD0BDB-BB01-45D0-9AD0-20ABE43ADB91.jpeg

D09F280E-7801-4537-914D-2B7CC980FE5F.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete,

 I cant even begin to help you on the pink oil issue. Except that it doesnt look to be a easy fix. But I am sure you knew that and have done many other things on this unit already. Set down have a coffee and plan your attack. Yes it looked like it needs fixed. I was curious as to the "pink" oil?  Just never seen any thing like that. is it oil mixed with something?

Why do I feel that the engine/ bell housing will need to come out to fix this problem?? Just speculating here! The experts will be along soon. They are just finishing breakfast.

Regards,

 Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Pbach said:

Thanks guys. Chris I was lookin at your thread and wire diagrams. I’m thinking of staying with positive ground. I found a Delco 10si that should work. This is the number. D110Si12V63P.

On another note I noticed a puddle of pink oil under the main clutch compartment. When I popped the circular cover I could see that the trans oil had been leaking in around the main drive seal. Has anyone had this happen? Are there replacement seals available? Also can I remove and replace seal from clutch compartment? Looks like there’s three bolts and a large retainer nut that come off.

from the diagram the seal is number 69 but has two different part numbers listed.

Thanks, 

Peter

1F2AD022-AE68-4BDC-8832-DDE0358B84BD.jpeg

E7BC5BA8-CA18-4204-AADA-B7EA29DDB600.jpeg

0CAD0BDB-BB01-45D0-9AD0-20ABE43ADB91.jpeg

D09F280E-7801-4537-914D-2B7CC980FE5F.jpeg

Peter, yes you can access the seal and the front bearing by removing the front bearing retainer. By removing the transmission end cover you can change all the bearings and transmission gears. You will need to remove the clutch. Be sure to stake the drive coupling retaining nut when finished.

IH TD6 transmission2.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

I have the drive shaft seal off and it was definitely bad with the spring hanging loose and the rubber hardened. I was planning on replacing the bearing at the same time as the seal but I can’t figure out how to remove it. Is there any way to get a puller in there to remove the bearing? 

A20FB730-880B-4749-9E42-A1D0FC153644.jpeg

1DF52273-E32E-432B-9EBD-B07BF49820D3.jpeg

12CB46B9-D874-4936-9E3C-76614F234CDB.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

What is the depth of the splines on your input shaft? A puller like this may work, the small arms of this puller is .198 high, they could be ground down to probably .175, something like this may work. All the machines I have do not have a bolt holding the yoke on, the shaft is threaded for a nut. That bearing should slide off easy.

Snap On slide puller.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is that a snap ring around the od of the bearing?  If so, maybe remove it and use a small heel bar or screw drivers in the groove to pry it out.  Once it is out some, reinstall the ring for more to pry on.  Agree with Louie, it is probably not real tight in there.  good luck

Dennis 

Edited by farmalldr
spelling
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...