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Think that’s about as good as it’s gonna get. 

Peter, Soaking with the ATF+ acetone will help to loosen stuck rings. The oil in the wet test will temporarily seal the rings to boost pressure. If rings are stuck, the "juice " may loosen up the ring

Here is another pic of when the dozer was first dropped off in pieces from Hank in Indiana. It didn’t run and was practically seized up with a bad ring gear. Neighbors were probably very confused.

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I should have added more detail to my last post. To get the pins through the springs you will have to push down on the coil portion of the springs to line things up. This also pre loads the springs placing the pressure plate under tension effectively mounting it to the outer ring. 

The cam arms are installed next (grease the rollers first) followed by the solid wear ring  and finally the adjustment ring. I don't know if this holds true for the dozers vs tractors however, with tractors I am able to assemble the clutch with friction disk and the entire yoke/throwout assembly and install it as a complete unit. Its very tight at install, but it goes in.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pete,

 You have a large project! Good skills there. I see welding, grinding, machining going on! 

Thanks for the update and pictures!

Regards,

 Chris

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I'm torch-dumb Peter, would you tell what torch you used to reattach the ear to the gas manifold and fix the cracks on the...hmmm, steering clutch cover and the rod used?

Looking great!

If that fuel system mucks up on you again, refill the fuel filter with Miracle Mystery Oil, bleed the air and go again. Works for me every time. : - )

If I weren't so buried in my Twin City tractor addiction, I'd love to get a TD-6, TD-9 or crazier yet a TD-24 to play with. I need a crawler sometimes.

IH preferred or an RD-6 3 cylinder Cat for me.

Thanks for posting this!

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Torch used was just an acetylene-air torch with 45% silver brazing rod. Thanks for the suggestion on mystery oil, hasn’t gummed up again yet!

 

Quick update:

I have the main clutch back in with new clutch disk and 4 new springs. Just finished cleaning up and rebuilding the left hand steering clutch with all new discs (steel and fiber from general gear, thanks John!). I also went with new pilot, thrust bearings and a new bevel compartment seal. I still need to install the seal but there is a gap on one side of the rubber and want to make sure it goes in correctly. Anyone done this? Still need to repeat all this for the right side.

The reason I got a new seal is because the transmission and bevel compartment were filled with thick grease (no flow to it and very tacky). The bottom inspection covers were also missing. My theory is that the seals were leaking bad so the old timer just dropped the bottom inspection covers and filled up the compartments with grease. Need to figure out how to flush the system and put the heavy wt oil in. After the clutches are in I need to work on reclining my brakes. Found a good thread on here that pointed me to the correct material and rivets from McMaster carr.

Gettin excited to get this thing movin and work on hydraulics. Then to push stuff!

 

Peter

 

 

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Transmission and differential compartments are common, they use the same oil, so what you see in the differential is also in the trans. Only one drain plug, under the differential so taking the top cover off the transmission and pulling all the gears will be your next project. Big question is why where they pumping grease in there in the first place.

George

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Yep, I am hesitant to pull the gears, maybe I can get away with flushing it out while avoiding that. 

Maybe the oil is just really old and hardened up? Maybe water got in there? Any way I’ll try and scoop out as much as possible and power wash the rest. I just don’t want to get anything rusty in there.

 

Peter

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  • 2 weeks later...

I pulled the plug on the trans housing and tried to drain out as much gunk as possible. It appears that the transmission goop will not drain through the bevel plug. They are connected right? What is the round cap thing underneath the crawler next to the drain plug? Is there just a small hole that connects the two compartments that could be plugged up? 

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 Both compartments drain thru the one hole in the rear, all of the trans fluid has to run thru the rear main ball bearing in the transmission, so if it was just gear oil, it would take awhile. I don't think you are going to get much of that to just run out, you may have to add some diesel to what is in there and run it for awhile to mix it and then drain. Refill with diesel and repeat. Might be a long process.

George  

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Thanks George, I have added some diesel and thinned the goop quite a bit, but maybe I just need to fill the whole compartment to the brim. This thick goop is gonna have a **** of a time getting through a bearing. I have the clutches out so I can put it in gear to mix it without moving the crawler which is nice. The drawback though is that some of the diesel likes to flow out where the seals should be. I’ll have to pick up some more diesel and keep repeating this I guess. Man this stuff is nasty. 

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Like you said, the diesel will run out where the drive shafts go from the bevel gear into the steering clutches. The covers have seals for the shafts and gaskets where the covers bolt to the housing. I think the big round "plug" on the bottom is just part of the steel casting process that was left over from manufacturing. I have 5 main frames and they all have it, but I see no use for it.

George

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Stupid me, I was relying on my memory again and it has failed me. What I said about the trans gear oil having to drain back thru the bearing was wrong. I just walked out and looked at the case I have in the scrap pile and there is a horizontal slot in the case wall between the trans and bevel compartment, about a half inch high, 1 1/2 inches long to drain the oil thru. I would still be slow draining that paste you have thru there but it would eventually. I think that casting boss could be drilled for a drain hole, but I can't see a benefit to do it. Either hole will drain both compartments. I did not measure for it, but I think that boss is under the very rear of the trans compartment.

George

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Thanks for checking George. I did see a slot at the top in between the compartments but there must be a lower one too that’s plugged up. I will just try and thin the oil goop out some more and maybe i can get it to flow better.

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Here is a photo of the slot between the two compartments, taken from the bevel gear side back towards the transmission. Slot is taller than I thought it was this morning.

George

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Pete,

 As greasy as that is I think I would go for it and use gasoline to try to cut it. The grease of goop doesn't look like it will come out without a fight! You have a good start at getting it cleaned up in there! You can do it!

 Regards,

 Chris

 

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