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Think that’s about as good as it’s gonna get. 

Peter, Soaking with the ATF+ acetone will help to loosen stuck rings. The oil in the wet test will temporarily seal the rings to boost pressure. If rings are stuck, the "juice " may loosen up the ring

Here is another pic of when the dozer was first dropped off in pieces from Hank in Indiana. It didn’t run and was practically seized up with a bad ring gear. Neighbors were probably very confused.

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On 7/23/2019 at 10:33 AM, Pbach said:

I removed the six bolts and u plate yesterday. It was tough to get the correct 1” socket on these as they were all smashed up from driving over rocks. I also found the second of the two dowels underneath. Are these reverse thread? The manual says they will come out by turning a nut onto them? 

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Please tell me what I’m looking at here not familiar with the machine 

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That is the cover of the drawbar pin which the leaf spring rotates on.

I initially thought this had to be removed to pull the engine but it does not. 

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2 hours ago, exSW said:

My bet's head gasket. Just a hunch.

That sounds like the best case scenario to me. Maybe the head just needs to be re torqued?

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2 hours ago, Pbach said:

That sounds like the best case scenario to me. Maybe the head just needs to be re torqued?

Like I said,just a hunch. But the loss of compression in sequence to me means something.

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I would pull the valve cover and check for sticky valves. Intake, exhaust and starting valves. I like to tap the valves with a soft brass punch. Check clearance on all valves, then do a wet compression test to see if the compression comes up any. Make sure engine is on gas start cycle. Jim.

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On 8/12/2019 at 8:51 PM, mmi said:

you could have rust, carbon,other obstructions

stuck bent starting valves

simply stuck or dry rings.

squirt some 3w oil in and try again  if 50 + gain  then fill them up with atf+acetone for 4-5 days  remove plugs and push out let sit 1 hour

 

try to start with known working plugs/electrics

then I would move on to stuck obstructed starting valve

main valves....

cranking speed and proper gauge.....valves set to gas.....?

Well I ran the wet compression test and the compression increased significantly. cylinders 1+2 were around 80psi and cylinders 3+4 both about 110psi. 

I had to pour a little gas down the top of the intake manifold in order to get the engine to pop. I might have a fuel issue or maybe there is not enough suction to draw in the gas... It actually sounded like it wanted to start up though and was making a cloud of white smoke.  

I think the results of the wet test point to cylinder wear.. Why would this only be on the front three cylinders? You mentioned soaking them with atf+acetone for a few days, will this increase compression somehow?

I think it might be best to pull the head to investigate the valves, and head gasket as well.

Let me know what you guys think, I might have an expensive project on my hand, not sure if parts for this engine are even available. 

Peter

 

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Peter, Soaking with the ATF+ acetone will help to loosen stuck rings. The oil in the wet test will temporarily seal the rings to boost pressure. If rings are stuck, the "juice " may loosen up the rings and increase the pressure even more. WIth the plugs out and juice in the cylinders, spin the engine over several times a day and then reapply the juice, wait till next day and repeat. This approach will also clean up the cylinder walls which may have a light rust coat on them from sitting. Could save you from pulling head. Jim.

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Pete,

I just completed a engine overhaul on a off color orange unit of similar size. I was fortunate to find all the parts I needed. My guess is that you can still get a engine kit??? Expense? Well nothing is cheap anymore I would estimate $2000 or more depending on the machine work required? Is it worth it? Well for me its cheaper that beer and a shrink! Also worth it if you want a good working engine. Hopefully the rest of the machine makes a engine overhaul worth the time money and effort. You will for sure learn a bunch! There are good folks on here that will support and cheer you on too.

Regards,

 Chris

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Chris, there will be no engine rebuild on this crawler because it started up today!!

Here’s what I did:

Thanks to everyone’s advice, I poured Kroil down the cylinders, let soak for a several days, turned the engine over a little with the hand crank and repeated again. I also only had 2 of the 4 nuts holding on the intake manifold initially which was why it wasn’t sucking in gas. 

Today I went out and gave it a several cranks and with each one it sounded like it wanted to start more and more. Eventually I got it going! I had to put a rag over the intake manifold hole to restrict air flow a little.

I let it run for several minutes and it sounded good! After shutting it down I checked compression and all cylinders were 120+ PSI. Looks like the rings were rusted and not sealing well after all.

Thanks everyone for your help getting it goin, now onto the diesel side.

Peter

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How I love  a Disney ending to a story.  On the diesel side, assume every section of the system is dirty. Drain and flush tank. Disconnect and clean all lines to and from pump. Remove filter base and clean out and replace both filters. (maybe one filter on a 6. ) Drain and replace oil in fuel pump. Then open the bleeders on all injectors and with engine running on gas, slowly advance the throttle till pump starts pumping fuel but not trip the compression release lever. This will allow you to bleed the injectors of air while engine is running on gasoline cycle. Jim.

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Thanks Jim, you've been a big help. Most of the lines on the diesel side are missing, so I may need some help figuring out where all the lines go, and I will have to make new ones. I'll have to check the manual if it has a picture of the fuel line routing on the IH pump, as my other Crawler has an "A" pump.

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Pete,

 I have a bunch of pictures but not sure what pump I have anyway. If any of those will help on the lines let me know.

Congratulations on getting it running! My guess is that it was way better inside the engine than you think. I would like to bore scope a old locked engine someday.

I worked on getting one free , to run, like that in a 55 Ford. It burned a quart every 50 miles! Hope you have way better luck.

I did similar to what Jim said but did not clean all the lines. But mine had been started a year before I got it. I did eventually change the fuel filters. 

Keep going!

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Any pictures would help if you have an IH pump. Here’s what my diesel side looks like with the two lines attached to the filters. Looks like my throttle linkage got bent up somehow. Still need to check out my manual for a diagram.

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Peter, If you have a manual, it will have the diesel fuel system. Basically, fuel tank to water separator (glass bowl below starter). water separator out to inlet primary filter (rearmost filter) out of primary filter  to primary pump inlet. Out of primary pump to secondary filter inlet. secondary filter outlet to plunger inlet. then diesel either goes up to injectors or out return line to be recycled into fuel tank via the return line. Send me your email and I will scan the schematic and send to you. Jim.

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Thanks Jim, I was able to figure them out. I am trying to locate all the correct fittings and copper tube for the fuel lines. What is the importance of the injection pump air cleaner? Looks like the fitting is behind the pump but wasn’t connected to anything.Anyone know the specific type of fittings used on these lines?looks like 3/8”od tube 

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The pump air filter is just a cast iron canister with felt discs to filter the air moving in /out of the pump crankcase. It pulls air out of air filter housing behind dash. Take the housing apart. clean felts in gas or solvent, dry and reinstall. The fittings were a special type with ends that were soldered to tubing. You can convert the fittings over to compression type with a ferrule, but the high pressure lines may leak or seep. Jim.

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Thanks Jim, in the process of converting to compression fittings and having a bit of trouble getting the copper tube bent correctly. My air filter looks to be capped off and not sure there was ever a connection to the injection pump... is this something to do with the IH pump?

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Pete,

May not help, but NAPA has the soft copper bendable tubing. Might work???

Good luck on your lines. I looked through my pictures and didnt see much that might help you.

 Regards,

 Chris

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I have all the diesel lines connected now and will try to see if it switches over tomorrow. Next on the list is the main clutch. Do these clutch plate springs look normal? Are there supposed to be two per slot? I had my clutch off crawler #1 but never took it apart to this extent.. 

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Those clutch springs are broken. Just bought a new set from tractorparts.com, I think they were $25 for the set.

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Quick update:

Had the crawler running on diesel the other day! At first I was getting no fuel to the fuel injectors when I was bleeding the system. Could have been something gummed up in the injection pump.. but all good now after running it in a little and working the throttle back and forth. Glad I don’t have to pull that apart.. gonna change the oil again.

I had the wrong filter in my primary fuel canister. It was the same as the final filter but was just loose. I have ordered the top/bottom plates for the correct filter. I have also ordered an adapter sleeve to allow me to just use the same filter as the final. 

A new  main clutch plate and  those clutch return springs are on the way as well. Meanwhile I am working on pulling the steering clutches (Round 2!) I’m hoping I can get these out without rolling the crawler to get all the bolts out since it’s blocked up at the moment. Looks like someone filled the main transmission compartment with grease instead of the heavy weight oil... maybe it had some leaking issues before, wouldn’t be surprised as this crawler has had plenty of use. Almost none of the rollers hold oil either. I did notice my rear main crankshaft seal leaks a bit too when running the engine. Havnt decided if I want to pull the engine again to replace this or not yet.

All things you would expect when working on a near 70 year old machine haha.

Regards,

Peter

 

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Pete,

 I have seen pictures like this on here before! Looks like  lot of close tight work to me! I hope to not have to do this as my TD6 has a tall frame work around the station, It would be reall hard to get in there and work. Thanks for the updates and pictures. Good you can find the parts you need. That's always encouraging!

Regards,

 Chris

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I am trying to figure out how to reassemble the clutch with the new springs. Can anyone explain the process for doing this? The manual is vague and shows pictures of a different clutch. Right now I am trying to reach in the casting cut out with a long needle nose to try and get the pins through the springs but they are not lining up..any tips?

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Here are some pictures from my ODS6 to help you out. Place the outer ring over the pressure plate, then install the springs and retaining springs. 

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