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Got this yesterday.  Starts and runs nice.  I knew the brakes didn't work.  After some research, I tore into them.  Found newer disks and all the shims installed.  To get good freeplay, I have 4 shims in the right side and 1 in the left.  Some ignition tuneup, clutch adjustment to help with shifting.

I do wish it had the 3 point hitch instead of the fixed drawbar, but I still like it.  A vast improvement over the 560 in every way.

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Nice!  I have the 706 version of that.  You'll like it, I bet.  What's she weigh?

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Only drawback if you pulled them hard they'd drink gas like a sailor

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Matching rubber make them look like they were taken care of better than others

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No idea what it weighs.  Rear are loaded though.  I'm familiar with the 6 cylinder gassers so I'm aware of their thirst.  I don't do a whole lot of heavy tractor work.  

Guy I bought it from kept it shedded.  He's also selling a 1066 for 7K.  If I had the need and wherewithal....

Chris B.

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On 7/8/2019 at 5:13 PM, TN Hillbilly said:

Nice!  I have the 706 version of that.  You'll like it, I bet.  What's she weigh?

there is a barn load of difference in the 706 vs 656 - i kind of thot the 656 was ho hum vs the 560 - love the front entry tho vs up/over the back - i like the torque of the 450 4cyl vs the power of the 6cyl, the diesel helped a little but they didnt lug the the big 4cyl - u get one of those 6cyl down around 1200 rpm u better be grabing the pto handle or clutching its going DOWN, the 4cyl would pull out of a 600rpm lug - easier to get power out of the 6cyl tho, my 560 was rolled some coal

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I cut grass this past weekend with the 656 and 80" woods pull type.  Compared to my 450 and 560 gassers, it is a much nicer setup.  Smoother running (compared to the 4 cylinder), easier getting on/off, better controls. hydraulics, trans, seat, etc.  I will say the 656 notices loads more than the 450.  The 450 just walks along, not caring about the mower.  I put a 660 governor spring on my 560 years ago so that thing winds up to about 2100 rpm, will hit near 20 mph going down the road (when the stupid brakes aren't locking up).

I got the original NF with the 656.  Been tossing around the idea of reinstalling that.  The Schwartz axle has some play in the steering arm splines.

Chris B.

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I just purchased another 656. Has a Speeco front axle. Seriously considering a narrow front under this one.  If I remove the cab........ kinda like the cab on this one.

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Cab and a narrow front would look great!  the paint on this one appears to be very original and should clean very nicely

 

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Finished restoring this one 2 years ago. Almost put a narrow front under it, but a nice wide front fell into my lap.

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Also have the 656 hydro for snow removal and loader duties.

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100_1106.thumb.jpg.f61d28e32fdfd1025d617de2793cdf54.jpgThis is mine  All original 1972.  I bought it new.  Has 7000 hours and the original TA.  Has had a new clutch and injectors cleaned and tires and that is all.  Its had many coats of wax over the years.

jerry

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On 7/18/2019 at 11:37 AM, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

I just purchased another 656. Has a Speeco front axle. Seriously considering a narrow front under this one.  If I remove the cab........ kinda like the cab on this one.

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Keep the cab, Looks good on it. But Yeah I could see a Narrow Front on it. 

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how about a 560 with 656 fenders LOL 

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On 7/20/2019 at 6:32 AM, SMOKER 1 said:

100_1106.thumb.jpg.f61d28e32fdfd1025d617de2793cdf54.jpgThis is mine  All original 1972.  I bought it new.  Has 7000 hours and the original TA.  Has had a new clutch and injectors cleaned and tires and that is all.  Its had many coats of wax over the years.

jerry

Thats a well kept Tractor Jerry!

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On 7/15/2019 at 1:24 PM, searcyfarms said:

there is a barn load of difference in the 706 vs 656 - i kind of thot the 656 was ho hum vs the 560 - love the front entry tho vs up/over the back - i like the torque of the 450 4cyl vs the power of the 6cyl, the diesel helped a little but they didnt lug the the big 4cyl - u get one of those 6cyl down around 1200 rpm u better be grabing the pto handle or clutching its going DOWN, the 4cyl would pull out of a 600rpm lug - easier to get power out of the 6cyl tho, my 560 was rolled some coal

I didn't even reach for the TA lever on Dad's 450 till the tach dropped below 900-1000 rpm. Lot of times the tough spot passed and she'd wind up and pull at 1450 again.  Hard to believe they were only rated 55 hp.

The 450 kept up good to the neighbor's series 4 D-17,  but his series 2 D-19 gained a couple hundred feet every round plowing half miles rows, until the last year we both farmed with the 450 & D-19,  1968. Neighbor dropped half a gear, the 450 just kept going in 3rd gear, had to pull the torque on a couple steeper hills.

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Got a Farmall 544 with low hours. Had a new clutch put in in 2012 by expert mechanic. Torque Amplifier is original. Hasn't been adjusted since 2012. Runs and shifts normal to me, but it's a good idea to check it once in a while so you remember how. Also need to adjust the brakes.

I've got a question. The clutch pedal is supposed to have like 1.5 inches of free travel and you're supposed to readjust when it gets to like one inch of free travel. That means the pedal is supposed to depress only 1.5 inches? I can push the pedal all the way to the platform, which is five or six inches maybe. I don't want to change that to only 1.5 inches if five or six inches are normal....

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Free travel is how far the pedal moves before the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate, not total travel.  You should be able to push the pedal to the floor but you should also feel the change in resistance after 1.5 inches.  More easily noticeable when checking by hand.

Chris B.

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The clutch definitely needed adjustment. 1-3/4-inch is the desired amount of free pedal travel. I settled for 1-9/16-inch because one more turn might have been too much. 

Now, for the Torque Amplifier.

5. Rotate the cam inner lever "G" counterclockwise until the clutch release bearing contacts the clutch release lever. 

Huh? How's that make sense? It appears to me IH used the same misleading passage for years.

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I couldn't make the TA adjustment as stated.  Had far too much gap between D and cam plate thingy.  The tractor had sticky shifting trouble like my 450s do when the short TA linkage needs adjusting.  Did some searching around and it appears I wasn't alone with that problem.  I found a 1/4" square key and temporarily clamped it to the cam plate to close up the gap.  Shifts a lot smoother, no jerking the shifter out of gear or having to pull the TA back.  That 544 linkage layout looks about like my 656's.

Chris B.

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I got the free pedal travel to 1-3/4-inch. I read an owner's manual for a 350 and it states that the clutch I was bewildered about is the Torque Amplifier clutch, not the engine clutch. Ended up adjusting the 544 TA the same way as a 350 TA with the lever in forward Direct Drive position instead of rearward Torque Amplifier position and ended up with the proper 1/8". TA lever pulls back a lot harder than it did before, but maybe that's to be expected.

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