Jump to content

986 motor rebuild?


Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, Rs3480 said:

Opinions on rebuilding or swap out motor with used one? Would a 1086 motor work?

No info, no opinion.

Link to post
Share on other sites

assuming you intend to keep the 986, the worry I would have is: what's to say the swapped-in engine won't start leaking coolant into the oil within a year or two?  Might as well put that money toward a reman or rebuild

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

What's wrong with the engine that makes.It require a rebuild. Expect $1000 to $1500 a hole to rebuild.

  • Sad 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

J-mech likes to be condescending, 

As for the rebuild,  drop the pan and pressurise the rad and see if water is leaking around the sleeves. Most likely your problem, but there's always the rare chance it's the oil cooler.

I personally would rebuild unless I know 100% the condition of the other motor.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I did a 414dt 90%of it myself.I mean myself no kids,neighbors or anyone.I did have help to mount the head and put it back together some,just to heavy for one old man to do by myself. It was leaking coolant around o-rings,tractor set for years before I bought it.Tore it down,had head checked and what it needed was done.The injection pump and injectors both were went to shop went over,new seals in pump and anything else.Radiator cooked out ,pressure check at shop and new thermostat.I did a in frame( I know some say that is a patch job,maybe it is,maybe not),rolled in new bearings,crank miked ok.I had little less then 3k in it myself with new Fleetguard coolant,Engine #1 and all filters.Just a whole lot of labor doing it,parts weren't bad.I guess if you had someone do it start to finish,you have a pile of money in it.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, brahamfireman said:

J-mech likes to be condescending

brahamfireman thinks he's a social justice warrior.

 

No rule on required info, but hard to give an opinion on whether to swap or rebuild a motor if we don't know what's wrong with the original engine, or history on the used.  Contrary to most people belief, some things are cheaper and easier to fix than replace.  Plus, unless you know the history of the used motor, which you gave zero info on, it's hard to say of it would be a good candidate for a swap.  If you want good answers, give more info.  If you just want to know if it's easier to replace than rebuild, then yeah.  That's usually easier.  From the little info you gave, I'd rebuild.  Better than taking a chance on a used engine. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, J-Mech said:

brahamfireman thinks he's a social justice warrior.

So informing a newer member of your continued snarky comments makes me a "social justice warrior "?????? were is the eye roll emoji. 

Might I also remind you, that you've been warned by mods before, I NEVER have, AND it's well known you ruined the cub cadet forum with the same comments. 

The guy asked a simple question, answer it. Did it ever occure to you he knows what's wrong, and was just wondering which direction the crowd is leaning???? We've all wondered things like this in life.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
43 minutes ago, brahamfireman said:

So informing a newer member of your continued snarky comments makes me a "social justice warrior "?????? were is the eye roll emoji. 

Might I also remind you, that you've been warned by mods before, I NEVER have, AND it's well known you ruined the cub cadet forum with the same comments. 

The guy asked a simple question, answer it. Did it ever occure to you he knows what's wrong, and was just wondering which direction the crowd is leaning???? We've all wondered things like this in life.

And the snarky comments just continue. 

  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, jass1660 said:

It ain’t lying if it’s true....

But it isn't true.  Don't know who you boys talked to, but you got it all wrong.  

You boys want to pick a fight with me, fill up my pm box, but leave it out of the forum. 

 

 

You can't give advice one way or the other on this topic without all the facts.  Unless you just want to know if an engine swap is easier than an overhaul.  In which case, the answer is yes.... and it's quicker too. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/5/2019 at 9:56 AM, J-Mech said:

No info, no opinion.

 

50 minutes ago, J-Mech said:

But it isn't true.  Don't know who you boys talked to, but you got it all wrong.  

You boys want to pick a fight with me, fill up my pm box, but leave it out of the forum. 

 

 

You can't give advice one way or the other on this topic without all the facts.  Unless you just want to know if an engine swap is easier than an overhaul.  In which case, the answer is yes.... and it's quicker too. 

I will agree that the original poster could have given more information. J-Mech, you could have phrased your initial response a bit better. With that being said can we all just get along? We are all supposed to be responsible adults here. 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are in a hurry, swap the engine. A swap is easy and waaaaaay cheaper if you just need to get going. Sure you won't know the history, but a pan removal and a bearing inspection will tell a lot on a used one. A complete rebuild better? Of course it is, but it is a lot more expensive than just a $1350 overhaul kit. Just depends a lot on your current need and budget. Good luck which ever way you go.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, INTERNATIONAL 1466 said:

If you are in a hurry, swap the engine. A swap is easy and waaaaaay cheaper if you just need to get going. Sure you won't know the history, but a pan removal and a bearing inspection will tell a lot on a used one. A complete rebuild better? Of course it is, but it is a lot more expensive than just a $1350 overhaul kit. Just depends a lot on your current need and budget. Good luck which ever way you go.

Exactly my thoughts.  Lots of options here.  Need to select the one that fits your current needs and budget.  

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Rs3480 said:

Used motor more in the budget and just taking word from seller on shape it’s in. Just want to make sure it will bolt right up with no mods

It will all bolt. A 1086 has a turbo though, so to leave the turbo you need a few 1086 parts. Air cleaner and exhaust parts from a 10,14 or 1586. It will all bolt without any mods.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sleeves/Pistons/bearings cost what these days?  Didn't use to be much. I know you guys all do injectors, the head, and the pump at the same time....and if your tractor is old/thrashed/has problems etc, I'm sure that's a good idea, but maybe the head is fine and the injectors and pump have been done at some point not too long ago? (Again, I know we didn't have that info) I was just making the point that  he might not need a $5k rebuild, and that maybe a $1k rebuild would get another ten years out of it for him.  If it still starts hard, do pump and injectors next.  Have a shop or a guy with a clue (I dont have a clue) take a look at the head while it's off this time 

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Rs3480 said:

Used motor more in the budget and just taking word from seller on shape it’s in. Just want to make sure it will bolt right up with no mods

I say we all have to do what has to be done to pay the bills.I cut plenty of corners since I been farming on my own for 40.years.Many times many naysayers said don't do it that way.It worked fine for me 90% of the time. It might as well for you this time for you,replacement engine might be the best way and last forever.The only thing I have against putting a used wet sleeve IH engine in (at least 400 series) is condition of coolant O rings around sleeves.I had a 414 that was fine last time I ran it ,no milky oil,sat like a week or so in shed,went to start it full of water,drained at least 12 gal of oil and coolant out of crankcase.O rings just went .Pulled head filled block with water and just poured out of one sleeve.That engine could be great on last guy but anytime O rings could go.I know that can happen on new key rebulit engine too if rings get rolled or pinched but at least you know what you got  and can start off on good foot with proper coolant and clean water filter

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...